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Firefox

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Posts posted by Firefox


  1. jasonhanjk: The solder is sold on the rack below all the soldering irons etc. You have to look for it. Don't ask the shop assistants for silver solder, they will only show you the Goot silver solder.

     

    adhoc: Silver is added to solder, not for it's conductivity nor is it because silver oxide is more conductive than copper oxide.

    It's for soldering silver plated conductors because normal solder will wick the silver plating off. OTOH, adding a bit of silver prevents the silver from being wicked off the conductor.


  2. ben, using nero can or not huh?

    coz in my friend's comp he only has the nero program.. not sure of the difference though.

    Probably I will try clone cd. I think his burner is the aopen cd-rw .. hm..

     

    but your copy is just like your original right? have you tried comparing side by side. I am looking to copy quite a few cds.. no money to afford all 1st hand(even 2nd) no.gif

    Not sure about Nero cos it might not be the bit-for-bit copying that CloneCD does. Especially when it comes to sub-channel data/audio. I've tried comparing copies of the various CDR media with the original and I can say that the Mitsui is the closest to the original (almost the same). The Ricoh followed very closely followed by other various medias.


  3. I use Teac CD-RW drives. It's just the reliability offered by the brand; Teac optical drives are amongst the most reliable in the industry (as with Plextor). But the newer models after the 40x12x48x burners are no longer made by them. They're sub-contracted.

     

    As for media, Mitsui Gold & Kodak Ultima Gold (NOS) are the best. Followed by Ricoh Gold media. Taiyo Yuden gold media is also very good (They OEM to Ricoh). Your el' cheapo Smartbuy or TDK media isn't that great..

     

    I always rip & burn at 4x. Using CloneCD for exact duplicates. =)


  4. firefox,

     

    Sorry they are your el cheapo plastic and steel ones. I think these are pretty good but not very user friendly. Sourcing for better ones. Bullet plugs are almost a no-go as they cost AU$70 a set!

    Oh.. It's just that I saw some RCA's that have hollow pin, but their nickel-plated brass. Thought I could mod them into the poor-man's Eichmann's... Hehe. Less metal is always better. *grinz*

     

    BTW, how much is the wiring?


  5. evil-zen,

     

    Hmmm good idea. I want rechargeable, self cleaning braun one... top of the line.

     

    Here's another beauty... hold your horses, "ho kua bo ta tio ho tia", This needs testing and evaluation...

    Do those RCA plugs have a hollow center pin? If so, lemme know how much & where you got them for... *grinz*


  6. To add to the thread:

     

    Kester Eutectic solder (63/37) can be had from SLT at $15.80 for 500gm roll. The shop to buy from is at the basement, selling batteries; It's in front of the escalator going up to the 1st storey.

     

    Kester Ag2/62/36 silver solder can also be had from Kaichin on the 3rd storey for about the same price. However, it's relatively old and some oxide has formed on the solder. It might be necessary to clean the solder (with soda water & alcohol or Deoxit) before using.

    It's otherwise a good deal; Where else in Singapore can you get silver solder at $15.80 for 500gm?

     

    I also recommend the Goot TQ-70/77 soldering gun (S$30 to S$40). It's 20W and with the depressing of the trigger, goes to 200W. This is good for soldering heat sensitive equipment (IC's & SMD components) and also good for soldering to jacks & plugs. Especially gold and rhodium (Cardas) plated contacts. These need about 60W and above to get a good joint.


  7. Any 'lobangs' for pcb etching?  hehehe

    i don't know what "lobangs" means but since I work in a university, I had the PCB for my Gilmore done in house. smile.gif I think it's $90 AUD if I sent it down south to be etched.

    Hmmm.... In Singaporean "slang" a.k.a. Singlish, Lobangs == 'Good deals'. i.e. If you have a friend who's a distributor for a product and can sell the product at a lower price than retail, you can call him/her a 'lobang'....


  8. I also wonder why german headphone makers do not make headphones in 900-1500 sin dollar range. They all stop at 450 sin dollar range. Then skip to electrostatics(orpheus for senn). They seem not interested to cover that gap.

    Well, perhaps you didn't know that 3 years ago, the Sennheiser HD600's were priced at a hefty $999 which drop slowly to $650 after a year or two.


  9. Hmmm... Output voltage set to 23.90 to 24.00 V.

     

    It has capability to set to +-15V if an upgrade is required. I am thinking adding a fan inside so that it will maintain at this voltage for a very long time (slow component aging)...

     

    Let's test on CLONE PPA, hope it don't blow infront of my face... smoke.gif

    Fans then to throw out a fair bit of EMI.. So it might not be a good idea to do so.


  10. Err... PS5A dual-mono low voltage supply is unregulated and use for vacuum tube, just read through welbornlabs project.

     

    You need to mod the headphones' cable to split into 2 plugs. More work as well...

     

    It is similiar to the Gilmore Class A where it use Grados headphone, correct me if I am wrong... party.gif

    I know. If I want to, I'd get the PS5A, then split into 2 PS1 boards (US$5.00 each; occupied with my own selection of caps) and then onto capacitance multiplier before going to the opamps. Hehehe... Super-overkill!!!

     

    Yeah. A true dual mono would have to be a balanced bridge version of the KGCA.


  11. Oh, I see... I have not read the dual-mono spec. Should take a look there... biggrin.gif

    There isn't one... It's just having 2 separate dual-voltage power supplies for each channel. And no common ground for both channels. ie. You need to mod the headphones' cable to split into 2 plugs. More work as well... More of an overkill but hey! I'm ain't me for nothing!


  12. How you going to enhance the Gilmore power supply?

     

    By adding similiar PS1 design would definately make it the most quiet and powerful power supply. w00t.gif

    Not really. Just adding a capacitance multiplier section between the LM's and the Opamps to bring the N+R on the line even lower. And of course, building a dual-mono PSU + amp.

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