fishball79

Have one for sale, comes with box and original contents. Asking $160 for it, please pm me if you are interested.

Have an unopened brand new box for sale at **SOLD**, interested pls pm me.

Thanks for the advice all. I've just borrowed a 1g shuffle from a friend to use. Out of curiousity, anyone compared the 1g shuffle directly against the samsung?

I want to know which of the smallest portable players you guys have tried that can drive the shure e4c such that a seperate amplifier is unnecessary... no real budget/capacity concerns... so long the shures are well driven and don't cause an extra bulge in my pocket

Anyone compared pc with good soundcards against commercial cdps?

Get a cheap multimeter, they have a continuity function that beeps when the 2 probes touch the same wire, useful for ur situation.

FYI The Palm Treo do not have good sound quality out of the jack. Rolled off bass and underpowered outputs (tested with shure e4c) Adding an external amp reduced the harshness but not the rolled off bass and actually an ext amp defeats the purpose of a music playing phone to me.

Quality is subjective, you'll have to try for yourself. Copper would be more forgiving if the album recording is poor and/or harsh. Sorry about the confusing statement on quality. Basically the ground wire should be the same as the hot one as both affect the sound you hear. If you use cheap steel ground wire for the ground, its sonic characteritic (bright, harsh) will show even if you used some warm and slow sounding wire for the hot.

DemonicAngelz, Silver's melting point is 961.63 degree c. Soldering was invented by using low melting point conductive metals to electrically join 2 metal contacts below 190 degree c. Get a cheap meter that'll test continuity and beep if there is a electrical path. U can test the ground and hot of the rca cable. 4 cables could be better than 2 cables if it is braided is a particular way to negate influence on each other's magnetic fields. See Audioasylum's Jon Risch's articles. Search chris venhaus diy cables for 4 braid technique. Personally prefer 3 braid like Kimber KCAG. Don't see why u can't make a dock with cables sticking out. Add mass to the bottom of dock to help it from shifting about. The return cable and the signal cable should be the same quality, if different, the sound quality is closer to the poorer cable than the better one.

Bose does have some merits though not in areas we'd bother about. They manage to have very many people think it's an impressive brand. Their jewel cubes have very high spl with low thd considering the size of their drivers. Bandpass bass is a tricky business but i believe they do it very well. You can do better bass with better drivers considering their retail price but i doubt any can make similar quality subwoofers with the same drivers. Pretty nifty room correction that works for ~$5k all in one system. Their 2 propaganda rooms demo-ing stereo and ht impresses the regular crowd very easily. They used to be the only hifi brand that's available with installments... Remote that works anywhere in the house.

Used to have the Contour 1.3SE. The 1.1 is a nice speaker with good midrange, only one of the many 2 way dynaudios i heard and like .. other than this 2 way D28/2 + 17W75XL (6.5") diy i got... but its got oil caps, no fair

Gahman, Could you explain how you come to know this? Know anything else anyone cloned? I'm particularly interested in clones of dynaudio drivers, Lynx soundcards and other very expensive audio gear

Remember guys, $1k budget... its not even enough to get ATC's smallest passive monitor! Not to mention ATCs needing incredulous amounts of power in order to sing...

You'll have to bring along a DAP to test test your fave tracks, i cant really tell u what is best for ur wife. Cannot reccomend shop since i dunno where most are sold. I reccomend soft dome tweeter in a waveguide if possible and harder poly woofer cones. KRK - Probably too clinical for music enjoyment, all that kevlar drivers.. Alesis - Decent brand but $$$ considering the quality... ESI Near - Heard at jaben, I like it, nice tweeter, nice woofer. i strongly reccomend listneing to them NOT on top of this pair of floorstanding loudspeakers that they are propped on, those speakers affect the monitor sound in a positive way. EMU PM5 - Havent heard but looked like a good design to me based on seeing them in person and checking the specs. pro audio brands dont embellish their specs like home audio ones do. Adam Audio - I think these are DAMN good but very costly. All of them uses ribbon tweets so highs will be sweet and accurate. I reccomend the cheaper plastic cone ones, the higher end greenish cones are too detailed for easy listening. Mackie HR824 - This is one example of plastic cone midwoofer that i dislike. You want some colouration but these are too much. They use Vifa 8" poly cones, nvr liked them. Slow and muddy. Fostex monitors - tho i say i like poly cones i think paper is the best. These are the few rare ones that uses paper still. Yamaha active monitors (esppecially the poly cone woofer monitor thats painted white) - The reason yamaha monitors are famous are due to their paper woofers, which has always been white. Now they sell cheapass ones looking like the old ones but dont sound anything like it. I think can ignore them. Non pro/active recc... only reccomend single fullrange drivers now... hate passive xo JVC wood cone speakers - They do sell the speakers only i believe but not cheap. My diy speakers - See my current signature. THey are creative sound's FR125S in 9litre enclosures. Very good fullrange driver but needs at least 100w, no, REALLY. No crossover filter needed and can fit very small boxes (2litres minimum) tho 7litre ported at 70hz seems like a very nice alignment. Drivers are $260 a pair from AHF Art audio.

Paisen didn't notice this till now.. Thanks all

Heady, Do you have an amplifier already? If not i'd reccomend active bookshelf monitors like EMU PM5, ESI Near series. Good value for money and very decent sound quality. Plus you don't need a spend on an amplifier. I do not think a pair of $500-1k passive loudspeakers would satisfy music lovers who have been using high end headphones as their primary stereo.

What's lacking? Bass too slow?

Bump

SOLD

Heard the near6, was sort of impressed but on hindsight should reaudition. The speakers were placed on top of a large pair of floorstanders. Though not connected, their drivers actually interact with the speakers and might have made them sound bigger than they are. Should put them on the stands or even the table If after that they still sound good then they truly are a good buy.

Should the plan to maintain sgheadphones fall thought, another possibility is creating a headphones thread under echoloft... I can speak to the owner about this. I see it as a win win situation as its non profit and since its the same hobby, you'd get to know more people as well as learn more about the loudspeaker stereo people and vice versa So many proclaim that they have 'moved on' to loudspeakrs so it makes more sense to keep within the same forums even after you've changed your setup.

dB is Decibel, a measurement of acoustical loudness. Here's a page that explains decibel rating in relation to everyday noises http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/loudness.html I think 0.5db is the purported common difference in loudness detectable by the layman. I've heard an audio engineer claim 0.25dB so YMMV. What's more important is, every 10dB increase = perceived double in loudness. +3dB = doubling of power, +10dB also means 10 times more power required

In regards to needing big rooms for big bass/sound, i disagree. Here's something to chew on... One might not have space for the dipole midrange design but the line array bass can be easily integrated into any rooms. A pair nearly as tall as the room placed 1/2 room width from one another an 1/4 room width from the sides, against the back wall (the wall you face when listening to speakers) theorectically cancels almost all room modes. You dont need a sweet spot to get the best bass. An alternative placement would be in the midpoint of opposing walls. If the bass arrays were against the wall, they are as intrusive as mere columns that sometimes jut out of walls in some houses. Paint them to suit decor and they are nearly invisible visually. So what you really need is to make sure the wall don't have built in furniture. Also, with that, you can try all sorts of speakers with alot less worry of bass or speaker placement as you'd cross it over from 100hz down. Power requirements is more than halved as the amount of power needed to reproduce 20hz to 120hz is equivalent to that of 120hz to 20000hz. We are less sensitive to quality of bass than we are to midrange and highs, line arrays are by nature efficient and you could even get away with subwoofer plate amps. Single ended amplifiers with small bookshelfs whose midrange you love? Sure. For a more modestly sized, higher WAF fullrange (ish) dipole design, the linkwitz orion works just as well as the bass is dipole as well and more forgiving when closer to walls.

Sorry to hear that but fully understand, honor is a much lacking virtue in this hobby...

I'm free weekends.