paingod84

resistors dont as far as i know, but for metal caps (the black cylindrical one), yes it matters (but you can see the +ve & -ve on the cap itself). post a pic/link of the schematic so we know what you referring to..

oh, use a butter knife, or anything that has a flatter tip.. i think it needs even pressure all around the area you are trying to click out of position. press on it downwards, i.e in the direction to push the grille out. (not push it inwards towards the center to try and unclasp the hook, that doesn't work) hope i've explained clearly enough..

norseman, depends where you push it. some edges, i managed to do easily, some, i had trouble just like you. it's a matter of slightly adjusting and repositioning the knife to get exactly at a good point to push it out, it shouldnt need more than an ounce of strength to push it, it should just click nicely out of place.

i've done the kramer mod, it does improve clarity quite a fair bit. of course it doesn't scale up to a grado, but nevertheless, i've always enjoyed koss' performance, and i'm enjoying the sound much more now. "more/larger holes in center tend to increase treble, more towards the perimeter increases bass." i basically made 8 holes around the mid ring, and enlarged the central hole, (all as large as i could go and still maintain the structural integrity) did A/B comparison before n after with a ksc55, the mids sound much better, slightly better highs. (thinking of getting another piece when there's another MO so i can do a proper comparison tho) (and maybe another mod to replace the grille with meshing instead) ymmv however. i've always liked bright sounding cans. zeph, px200 pads, how much and get from where aye? hope you don't mind if i steal your idea - tamiya black gloss paint, sounds yummy haha. haha, just thought what if everyone who bought one recently changed their avatars like kehyi. lol.

btw feather, the kramer mod is really awesome. i basically made 8 holes around the mid ring, and enlarged the central hole, (all as large as i could go and still maintain the structural integrity) my mids and highs sound even clearer, did A/B comparison before n after with a ksc55, feels like it pushed the ksc75 to totally another level. i'll probably buy another piece next time we have another MO just to do a proper a/b comparo. haha.

http://www4.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=126234 basically you create more holes in the plastic grille covering the drivers, to lessen obstruction. more/larger holes in center tend to increase treble, more towards the perimeter increases bass. personally, i aimed for the mids tho. read on in the link, there's quite a few other useful mods you can do with this can. (such as recabling, etc)

yep, thanks dle4e. just finished the kramer mod, am enjoying them right now!

1)Dle4e_2005(paid) 2)Kai(paid) Woodlands MRT* / Tampinese / Town also can 3)leemunch(pay) 4)that dude(pay) 5)leemunch(pay) 6)Koolz(paid) 7)Koolz(paid) 8)clemo(paid) you're the boss, just tell me where in Singapore. 9)feather(paid) city hall / town party.gif 10)eSoteric(paid) preferably central 11)eSoteric(paid) 12)jack112(pay) 13)yoshiki(paid) kembangan, aljunied, tanah merah. depends on the time actually. 14)ihyr2(paid) Jaben, Tiong Bharu or Paya Lebar MRT 15)koolz(im716 paid) 16)paingod84(paid) anywhere along West line/NEL/town (i think Jaben bad idea now. bo lui. haha)

O_O we need to gang up and corner it. not gangbang tho.

i see.. must have fried the chip perhaps. thanks.

thanks guys..

anyone tried a CMOY with NJM4556AD chip before..? i had one which ended up halving my volume and hence it clip and distorted alot.. so i'm not sure whether this was due to my terrible soldering/i overheated the opamp/nature of the opamp itself.. i redid the soldering several times and i'm pretty sure it wasnt the soldering tho.. sorry but i got no pics etc.. i did this a year ago and it all ended up in the junkpile, but yeah basically i followed all the exact instructions at tangentsoft, only diff being the amp. any theories?

i know like the usual resistors and caps stuff are avail at SLT lah.. but what about the tube itself? anything else i should take note before starting off? http://www.fa-schmidt.de/YAHA/index.htm

but is it viable for our kind of purpose, or is it more for lower powered devices like remotes.. etc..?

point noted regarding the difficulties involved in using Li-ion batts, thanks guys. however, i happened to come across this, http://www.bairesrobotics.com.ar/elektor/1...p%20Battery.pdf but with no prior knowledge regarding electronics whatsoever, i'm totally lost. so what can this little gadget achieve eh?