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neutralzz

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Posts posted by neutralzz

  2. Posted · Report reply

    just did up a little bit of soldering.. decided to test my fat tipped iron on this fine job.. argh!! quite a bit of suspense.. considering the cost of this board.. have to be very careful..

     

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    roar the shop i went to for 1% caps were out of 11k, no choice decided to series a 10k and a 1k..

    i use quite a lot of soldering grease to ensure maximal wettability.. cleared up the mess with a piece of tissue which explains that white bit stuck..

     

    thank god it was wonder solder.. with grease it becomes very wettable so i just need to let the solder flow down the wire and seeps into the hole forming a good joint :) had quite a bit of excess solder.. inverted the board and applied the iron to let the excess solder flow down the excess wire before cutting the excess wire bits off

     

    so far so good.. all connections intact.. tested all soldered parts for connectivity with my multi meter using other unsoldered points that are along the connective tracks..

     

    the caps will go on after i've done most of the fine bits.. hope i dont botch them up as they are the costliest bits of this.. madness :P

     

     

  6. Posted · Report reply

    ' date='28 Jul 2006, 04:31 AM' post='71395']

    Any pics of the casing neutralzz?

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    the iec socket as you can see i over-cut the width but its ok probably gonna find something to patch later or camouflage it.. very tight fit though.. dont think i can take the socket out easily anymore

  9. Posted · Report reply

    btw anyone doing the same thing as i m for the soha? soldering the caps and the VR components below the board..

     

     

    just finished with the case work.. argh.. cut slightly too big for the IEC socket but its ok can be patched a little.. fits tight though. trafo's in already probably gonna epoxy it down soon.. or should i screw mount?

     

    might need some soldering services i think.. anyone has a good thermal controlled soldering iron or good skills? my soldering iron's for ptp.. tip's too large for the delicate work. they dont have the fine head replacement for my iron.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    :blink::blink::blink: ...so many BGs for SOHA? Suddenly this 'budget' amp is high-end...

     

    er.. actually the BGs are un-warranted for at all.. cerafines would function just as well but my friend gave me 4 pieces of BG.. so i was thinking.. since BG already might as well BG everything for the sake of BG-ing..quite a waste of $$.. those caps were abt $90+

  13. Posted · Report reply

    btw, the box fits very well and it costs $25 at martin electronics. stainless steel box..

     

    the soha board can go in vertically with the trafo behind

     

    btw i havent actually seen the soha schematic, there's something on the pcb that i was concerned about, the db102G, apparently the negative/positives shown on the PCB is diagonal, but those db102g i just bought's the -ve and +ve are on the same side anyone to clarify?

  14. Posted · Report reply

    although i've quitted headfi but suddenly hand itchy.. :ppth:

     

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    4 parts requiring order paid at RS already... the opamp, l78l12, l79l12, and the j113 coming in abt 3-4 days time.. :mellow:

     

     

    and the biggest problem of all when i got home..

     

    my soldering iron is too big for soldering these fine stuff!!! :wacko::wacko::wacko:

  16. Posted · Report reply

    EAC should be pretty good for ripping already. its one of the best i've used so far.

     

     

    from what I know, the settings can affect the ripping by quite alot, especially if the CDs are old can cannot be read properly...do check out both links(mine and top-guns). Mine is a simple simple to follow pictorial guide...

     

    yup.. i had mine configured a while back but the only thing's my lappy's rom drive does not cache the data

  21. Posted · Report reply

    their players probably come with srs, with exaggerations on the midbass etc, sounds pretty lush, depends on the type of sound you like. to me its pretty decent at least.

     

    maybe cuz i've been listening to details, and the flatter response of the dt880s, and after a while it becomes boring. but by my hearing, although faulty at times, the sound at hmv seems a little more holographic, less compressed than several headphone systems i had came across, although lacking in desired tonal quality.

     

    exciting :P

     

     

     

    wil : yah.. i liked those spendors.. wow if only they are going to retire the spendors and organize a sale i might try to grab a pair. they have like.. 8 pairs+ in use.. forgot to count..

  22. Posted · Edited by neutralzz · Report reply

    a hum pot is a variable pot soldered across the heater for directly heated triodes, thats if the tube in use here is one. the pot should be able to withstand a couple of watts

     

    you can google hum pot + tube and locate a couple of schematics that have a hum pot implemented

     

    try battery heating of the heater at least, if theres none then the transformer can be isolated to be the cause

    *edit sry double posted.. argh singnet is laggy as usual

  25. Posted · Report reply

    well the doctor, at least you got some people interested in your rm500 soha right?

     

    as for ms foxylady, if you're gonna use the senns or any other high impedance phones, tube amps would be a good match as tubes often dont go that well with lower impedances.

     

    i've never heard the millett unfortunately, and most diy couldnt be done due to the difficulty in finding that little tube.. but my experiences with tubes, they sound exceedingly superb on both the 250 ohm dt880, and the 600 ohm hd650.

     

    many people had good experiences using grados on the cayin ha1a, an el84 SET, and the advantages is that this amp allows for impedance selection which improves the match. poorly matched output impedances with a tube amp.. you might not get the desired sound you want.

     

    i had experimented adding resistances in series to my mj and i realised that the optimal preferred sound i liked was actually pretty close to the 600-700 ohm range with grados, and a 300 ohm in series with my dt880. of course was frowned at by digi.. but well the mj was designed to drive up to 2k ohm if i didnt recall wrongly.. and since it sounds right to me.. tada!..

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