niccon

stereo out of stock last week when my friend tries, LHS have stock $30-35, i think. Koba may be bringing in. actually if you buy more than 2pcs, buy from ibasso cheaper, USD9/pc + USD15 shipping, buy few more also same shipping cost so buying 2pcs from ibasso is like SGD23 after conversion. want to start an MO?

Try Well Audio and Martin at Burlington Square else ebay for more choice and sometimes better pricing.

No, it is not. i saw in an online US site selling both male and female connector at only few usd but i cant recall which site now. Let me try to recall and revert. ha..ha.. found it http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/641/1139.pdf http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/Audio-...-191J-E&FS=True for toucan amp, the connector can be bought off RS or Farnell, cant remember which again, getting old so memory not too good.

Intending to get a new balanced headphone but unsure which one to lookout before researching more about it and auditing. Please help to provide some suggestion to start. Listening mostly to j-pop, neo classical vocal, new age & piano music. Bass - not too strong but impactful & focus, high quality mids & treble, sound stage airy (dimensional) and good music/vocal sepration. Hope able to shortlist under the S$1.5K if possible else with capping at S$2k max. TIA

External condition is about 9 on scale of 10 No issue on sound quality except the normal slight unbalance loudness at low volume (normal for volume potential meter). At normal listening level both side loudness is balanced for high sensitive iem (TF10 & JH16). Age is about 2yrs. Battery life still good. Original package content. Ibasso V2 Viper with op amp looking at 175 PM me for offers.

Have been getting hooked to diy after my last try recently and wishes to do more in future. I used a switchcraft 3.5mm jack the last round. Although its construction & appearance are good, i found the centre pin (left channel?) hard to solder. I wonder it was due to my lack of experience, under rated solder iron (using 30w now) or wrong tactic. I tried melting a small pool of solder on pin but found it hard to stay on it. After solder stays on the pin, I reheat the solder to melt it before bringing in the exposed wire. The reheat took a long while. Also I found great difficult to melt some solder on the exposed wire that I gave up trying after a while. I do it by placing the soldering tip on the wire and solder behind the wire. Did I do it correctly? Please advise for more fun experience in my next attempt. Thanks.

Mine has no issue so far, let hope it will stays that way. Quite true, I used a 30w soldering iron and have problem getting it melting. It takes a while before solder starts to melt.

koba do not sell the switchcraft connector with gold plated but ordinary plastic 90deg type. i went to LHS to get. lazy to order, since i was at koba, bought a small pre packed 4% Ag solder from them. it looks more shiny then normal solder which i used. is this how other silver solder look like too?

many thanks, thats is a lot of saving for me

Wow, please advise where to get at $8, i was told at the price is around $10-12 depending on which shop i buy from.

oh..which silver solder then , there is a few to choose from.

dont think my hearing is so sensitive. can i clarify that if plug makes almost no diff then the solder will not be much of a concern right? i was intending to use solder with silver content, looks like i can fall back on normally solder.

ya it is the cost that prompts me to post for clarification here. i wasnt keen to spend more unless there is a good reason to do so. Btw I just found out the price of vaiblue is almost the same as switchcraft, under 2dollar diff.

New to diy . Intend to diy a new 3.5mm jack for earphone cable and lod cable thus wondering which is a better choice in term of performance improvement or both is equally good? The cable for earphone is twag and lod is both twag and qable Silvercab-pro which i am modifying the connection. TIA

I bring them around by banding them togather and placed inside my backpack. At times the LOD cable will be bend due to movement (my LOD cable was damaged once to the lose termination issue on 30pins connector end) , can you share how you cope with it? At least to minimise chances of damages or inconvienent.

Great, can try togather with the Ultimate Link Reference connector; it is here already right?

so far the reviews i have gathered over other forum has been mixed. the risk or preferrence is there from my reading. i figured out while there is a significant saving on remould (even with adddtion mid driver) but once the sound is not what you want or like then it will be total ruin with no another option but to discard to buy a new one. thus with that in mind, i am more or less decided on getting a new set over remould.

it is treble that is affected, how does adding mid driver helps; please elaborate.

Found a topic on comparing the custom TF10 and universal TF10 in other forum, seems like the custom will impact on the treble.

Thanks, which branch did you go for testing? Btw how to test the surround sound effect, do they have play a movie?

should be quite ex, right? where to try this baby?

anyone care to share your experience of the new 8 driver reshell. thought of going this path.

tried but did not spend time to notice on the SQ since i dislike the fit thus changing back to foam again. to me foam is most comfortable and offers better sealing thus a better noise isolation.

thanks for the heads up on the issue. it was an interesting read on the topic. my biggest concern is losing treble I like so much whether a remoulded TF10 or a more neutral JH13/16.

thanks, will do a little more research.