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Rowdy

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Posts posted by Rowdy


  1. Thanks! You are right! I posted on Headfi and got very relevant replies within the hour, with pics of the K1000s plugged into the Almarro no less! But I still like this site, got a very local flavour and lots of advice on portable stuff.

    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year all! :))


  2. Any forumers out there using Almarro Integrated Tube amps? How are they? I recently stumbled upon the rather small A205A MkII amp from Almarro that comes with an XLR jack specifically for K1000s.

     

    As I am new to the K1000, any owners out there can advise on whether this will be a good amp for the earspeakers. Reason I am asking is that the Almarro apparently puts out only 5WPC whereas some forumers have remarked that the K1000 needs at least 7WPC.

     

    Another issue is the XLR mod, plugging the hardwire part of the K1000 into the amplifier would negate 10ft or so of the other part of the cable. I understand as well that the K1000 need at least 8ft of cable to sound optimal.

     

    Essentially, I am looking for a smallish integrated amp to drive my K1000, preferably tubes, so if the Almarro is OK, will probably make a beeline for it.

     

    Thanks!


  3. Agree totally. Admittedly, it's fun to hear amped up bass, but nothing compares to listening to music the way it's meant to be heard.

     

    Once I save up enough, I'll get an ER4p. It seems to be the only logical upgrade step from my current SF3 Studio. SF5 Pro sounds like a muddy mess of garbage bass to me.

    If you do a U-shaped loop with the cable using the clip, it'll elminate most of the microphonics. Read it from Stereophonics.

     

    2 weeks of listening to my ER4s, including some 50 hours of burning in with the XLO Burn-In Disc and I must say that the sound is nothing short of wonderful! I also found that I managed to attach my custom earmolds from my Westones onto the Etys and I can get an even better seal. I can safely say that the bass is startin' to slam! The extension down to the lower frequencies is also not lacking. Highly recommended! :thumbup:

    Oh yes, on the microphonics, I find that clipping the splitter to your collar directly behind your neck and running the two cables from the back helps to eliminate the problem.


  4. Got a pair of ER4S from Jaben. After just 2 days of listening I can say that I am totally converted to the Etys sound. Wonderfully transparent, clear highs and I must say accurate (but not slammin') bass. They are also amazingly small and light. My only gripe is that the microphonics still plague the cable from the splitter upwards. Now I don't know what to do with my UM2s! Anyone wants? :)) Oh, and I got a discount from Unc W.


  5. The Adelphi Shopping Centre is probably the best place to go. Can spend the whole day there auditioning the low end to the high end. Sim Lim Square also got a few shops, including Hung Bros. There are some 2nd Hand shops in Katong as well.

    Of course, can check out Absolute Sound in Singapore Shopping Centre if you are into Highend, Flatearth type of sound.

    Have fun!

     

    For our international friends, Adelphi is along Coleman Street, map can be found in the following link:

    http://www.streetdirectory.com/asia_travel...vel_site_12949/

     

    Just in case, I am not a shopowner or have any economical interest in Adelphi other than spending lots of money there, so rest easy! :grin:


  6. Hmmm, maybe I'll leave my Grados alone then. Perhaps look for an old HD650 to re-terminate... Then again, what Tyll Hertsens of Headroom Corporation said may be true. If so, my Max Headroom may have some problems as I am using a Naim CDX as source. This means the signal will go from DIN to phono to balanced! This may really screw it up! :think:

    Anyone got balanced cans to loan me to prove this theory? :grin: I can attempt to write a review after that...

     


  7. actually will soldering impose more noise too it? more resistance?

     

     

    I read somewhere that soldering may affect the properties of the conductor close to where you solder due to the high heat. Not very sure on that, but what I did was to use a hairdryer to heat the heat shrink tube, may take a longer time but at least the tube shrinks nicely with no visible marks. I did this with my power cable plugs. You will need a tube just about twice the diameter of your cable so when it shrinks, it becomes a tight fit and won't slide up and down.

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