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blippster

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Posts posted by blippster

  1. Posted · Report reply

    hi guys,

     

    i have a mini3 too. my Right channel is shorted somehow.

    just turn on, and volume becomes max.

    left channel follows the pot. only right side doesnt.

     

    can anyone help me check it up or fix it up? will pay a small fee.

     

    As dennis suggested, it's likely a pot issue. A good place to start would be the solder pads there under the board, make sure that the pins aren't shorting together. Pictures might be helpful.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Hello. I just finished soldering all the points but now i am currently stuck. I have no idea which is ground, left , right for the 10k pot and the 3.5mm stereo jacks. Anyone know how to identify them?

     

     

    For the pot shaft facing you,

     

    1 2 3

    4 5 6

     

    1/4 - ground

    2/5 - out

    3/6 - in

     

    Use your meter to check the jacks.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Wah, u damn fast leh, I haven't even got time to order the parts yet. The ones I've made so far are in plastic and cheap, about 15-20 SGD. BTW, guy with the laser cut services only accepts cdr files(corel draw).

     

    Just a tip, it's better to print it out on paper first and cut out the holes, test the template before sending it for cut. I had to edit AMB's dimensions a bit here and there to get the y1 template to fit proper the last time. I got no sources for metal plates yet, really hoping someone would throw me a bone here on this....

     

    Still waiting for RS to deliver the case so I can make comparisons, but so far AMB's dimensions vs. the downloadable .pdf drilling template seem to be about 3% off :huh:

     

    Not too sure where we can find the people who can do this, since it involves both cutting and (I assume) engraving. Looking at the shops that cut Al for PC case modding and the like, but that will probably take some time unless I feel rich and decide to order from FPE.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    IPB Image

    IPB Image

     

    Layouts done in FPD, based on AMB's dimensions, 2mm panel thickness. Don't think I'll be upgrading my y1 to Full++ configuration, hence the lack of the digital outputs on the front. Have yet to verify this set of drawings though.

     

    Don't know what the cost for fabricating the panels is locally, but FPD is quoting 42 USD per set, dropping to 33 USD per set shipping exclusive for 10 of each. There's a smaller price break (10% instead of 20%) for 5 each. Prices are without in-fill, so you'll have to DIY the fill for the engravings with a crayon - but that does save about 10 USD per set.

     

    mouz, if these would be helpful let me know and I'll send you the files in .fpd or .pdf (don't know which would be more useful, sorry)

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Itchy hands :blush:

     

    For context, my y2 is using the WM8741 with OPA2365 for the output filter and Nichicon KW/Wimas for the output capacitors. My y1 was built with Muse/Wima output caps.

     

    From what I've heard so far, its definitely a step up in refinement. The improvement isn't strikingly obvious, but after some listening I think there's better imaging and smoother mids and (especially) highs. I found the y1 slightly harsh on some systems, but don't think that will be a problem with the y2. Background is quite silent, even running directly out of the y2.

     

     

    Some build notes for those who haven't yet started:

     

    - it is possible to short to the case of X1 when soldering on to the SMD pads; only pin 2 (ground) is supposed to be a dead short. might want to consider using the resistor leads to add little legs to the crystal to fit the through holes (although I don't know how that affects performance)

     

    - try very hard to ensure the WM874x is well soldered before populating surrounding components. mine almost didn't make it through the couple of reflows :unsure: the SRC4192 is much more accessible in comparison

     

    - digital filters seem to make a slight but not very significant change in sound, so the switches might be left out to save money if you have a chance to compare them before hand and choose which you prefer most.

     

    - of the small ceramic capacitors, all have the same value except C2 & C5 - and they look the same aside from the last printed digit. mixed 1 of them up there, was quite a pain to try to rectify

     

     

    Overall, the y2 is one of the better DACs that I've heard, no regrets going for this one :rolleyes:

  10. Posted · Report reply

    On another note... anyone facing problems ordering the case from RS? They sent me a confirmation email like 2 weeks ago but I have not heard anything from them since.

     

    The case is in their extended range, so not sure what exactly that means other than the longer wait time.

     

    I ordered some other ER parts around the same time and still haven't seen anything of them, so it may not be too uncommon. Think you can email the address at the top of the confirmation they sent if you'd like to check up on it though.

     

    (Mouser put my shipment on backorder for a sudden out-of-stock part without telling me, until calling them directly managed to clear things up)

  13. Posted · Report reply

    brother...u forgot to count my order la...got 10 buyers already...of course the more the marrier :dance:

     

    I posted that before you added yourself B) Nevermind, like you said, the more the merrier - we're well on the way to hitting that MOQ for the cases.

     

    Sounds good to me. Anyway, any idea how much is a full build of y2 (including cost of y1)? I calculated the cost of the 2 above and it comes up to $33.70 + $21.15 = $54.85. You might want to update your post to include this information for the convenience of the other users. :)

     

    That's excluding the components that need to be ordered from Mouser. Total should be about 300-400 if you're building from scratch.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    My changes to the parts list:

     

    Farnell

    U2:1470478 - TPS79333DBVR (standard part)

    U7:1363691 - OPA2365AID (standard part)

    R5,R7,R12,R14: 9342788 - MF12 2K resistors (available from Mouser as well)

     

    Mouser (all AMB-spec'd alternate parts)

    SW2: 108-2US1T1765-EV - Ultra-Miniature Toggle Switches SPDT ON-ON VT RT ANG

    SW1: 108-2US3T1767-EV - Ultra-Miniature Toggle Switches SPDT ON-OFF-ON VT RT

    C11, C13: 647-UES1E220MEM - Nichicon 22uF 25V

     

     

    Just realised I forgot to order the y2 case from Farnell. :blink: Thankfully its close enough to the $30 mark that won't need to order too much extra stuff to make up free delivery.

  18. Posted · Edited by blippster · Report reply

    Some updates if anyone else is going to order soon, since I've ordered the first set of parts for the y2-only board.

     

    Not everything in stock at Mouser, and the 3.3V regulator has a lead time of 20 weeks.

    Output caps also have a long lead time, so switched those to Muse Bipolars for this order. The 2Kohm resistors aren't in stock either, so used the alternate from AMB's site; same for the front panel toggle switches.

     

    In the end ordered the TPS79333DBVR and OPA2365 from Farnell instead, since they have it in stock there.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    @mouz:

     

    Thanks for the Mouser BOM :)

     

    Could you clarify two things?

    - AD8656 is spec'd for headphone direct drive, but not available from Mouser. OPA2365 is for line driver.

    - 649-68786-202LF shut connector is for JP2-[1-4]? AMB writes that that only needs to be populated if ASRC isn't used

     

    Everything else checks out though, many thanks :rclxms:

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Ya agree...the Mini3 face plate is still selling USD40/pair..so I'm not surprised with the USD35 for the DAC :grin:

     

    Thought AMB's current Mini3 plates are fab-to-order, which would explain the high price. I expected the y1's initial price to be much lower.. So now - order with the GB, or wait for the local? :cry:

  23. Posted · Report reply

    adn6244,

     

    I found the same problem with the vocals disappearing on one I assembled on a bare board. Managed to solve it by grounding the input/output jacks properly. Just a thought, you might want to check those areas especially, out of everything heady mentioned.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    thanks heady :)

     

    the e3s are 26ohm, with the mylars at 16ohm and the creatives presumably less than that, so i suppose it's the second case..

     

    now the noise seems to be mostly when turning the pot (but again, only for the shures - the rest work fine) will try resoldering the pot in and see if that settles it..

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