Jump to content
jasonhanjk

Sgheadphones DIY A47 pocket amp kit

Recommended Posts

Hi jason,good jobs.

 

some suggestions:

move the supply input and filter caps to one side of the chips and the output and output return to the other side.

remove the block copper,add some pcb stand-off holes for boards fixture.add interface socket for calibrate.

 

beer.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

for the pot i hav the Farnell no. 919-287-1

but there's 2 versions of the mini alps, one 1 vertical mount, the other horizontal

Alps part no. will hav to check...

 

Alps P/N ;RK14K1240D04

Tropical ; if referring to ur farnell order code

i believe then that should be the right Alps P/N..

Jason ; alps website should have the detail dimention if u punch in

the P/N. party.gif

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

May I suggest that the option of paying more for a fully assembled amp be made available for those of us who are either completely useless with a soldering iron (me), do not wish to diy(also me) or do not own soldering iron and solder (still me). lol.gif

 

Those handy with a soldering iron can choose to buy the amp in kit form.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm up for an assembled version.

Screwed my first diy project. Won't try again. wink.gif

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

May I suggest that the option of paying more for a fully assembled amp be made available for those of us who are either completely useless with a soldering iron (me), do not wish to diy(also me) or do not own soldering iron and solder (still me).

 

I'm hearing my inner self asking the same thing too...........His name is L A Z I E (me), tongue.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My other suggestion(last one I promise) is that perhaps the budget be increased slightly to avoid making too many compromises on the design and parts. I'm sure even students who already own portable cd players or mp3 players can afford to pay more than $20.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I say stick with the original idea of a bare bones newbie DIY amp. Anyone else wanting a premade one should deal directly with the amp builders with their specific requirements.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i think anyone with enough experience/skill or balls laugh.gif to try building the amp from a DIY kit will hav no problems getting the parts from SLS or SLT.

 

my suggestion :

concentrate on the board design/layout.

market this project as a PCB board only.

leave the parts as optional.

 

this way even experienced builders will want to try it out. they can also buy the board to build for others who don't want to DIY.

as the most critical part of this project will be the PCB board itself, we should be worrying more on the board, and not the kit or parts. this will be very similar to the PPA, PIMETA,Mint META & META42 projects, where the board is the main attraction, everything else is left to the builder/seller or eventual owner of the completed amp.

the final completed amp will also be different from each other as different builders want to use different parts/components

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Here are the next improvement:

1. Reduce from 4 electrolitic cap to 2 to reduce board size, but will add 4 holes just in case someone wanted more Farad.

2. To market the PCB only will be a very good choice for those amp builder. As a designer I must take every detail seriously to make this board a all rounder. Better yet a max out Cmoy.

3. Another bundle of component will be sold together with the board upon request.

 

I want to sleep after coming back from Tampines, still owe someone a treat... biggrin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hav u come up with a name for this PCB yet? happy.gif

having options to hav 2 or 4 caps is a good idea, makes for a flexible amp when building.

the same for the rail-spilter and 2 resistor issue too? rolleyes.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my suggestion :

concentrate on the board design/layout.

market this project as a PCB board only.

leave the parts as optional.

 

we can purchase the part as a group buy,... so we can get a cheaper price of

components.... how bout that ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A group buy may only save $2 to $5. We can wait to decide later when the board is finalize.

 

No point having the rail splitter as it is more expensive than an opamp. Just 2 resistor will also make the amp harder to work properly. So I make the decision to use an opamp over the rail splitter for 2 reason.

1. Cheaper. Opamp $2 and TLE $3.50.

2. Ground is better control and faster response.

 

beer.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2. Ground is better control and faster response.

 

beer.gif

does this means that one of the dual op-amp will serve as the ground amp as well as spilt the voltage?

 

that will leave 2 more dual channel op-amps rite

is it possible to use each op-amp to buffer itself? since its a dual channel

 

this means the left channel will be input into 1 channel of op-amp1 and the output goes back into the other free channel before output to headphones.

the same for the right channel on op-amp2

 

will the circuit be too complicated? the copper trace might need to go under the op-amps to achive this, will it cause problems?

Edited by tropicalrips

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...