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Shure Wire's torn!

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I recently discovered a tear in on of the wires on my e2g. As such, the metal core is now partly exposed. Apparently, only when I put the wires in a certain shape (the one it forms when in normal usage) the tear closes up. So far, nothing wrong with the sound I'm getting, but I know that isn't going to last long.

 

So quick question: Any tips to repair such a tear? Or do I have to send it to Shure for repairs, and how much will this repair cost?

 

Very tempted to hurt wallet and get a new um2, but I can't really afford it right now.

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hey..i experienced the same thing as well..cept mine is torn is several places..but the sound is not affected as yet.

 

is it worth repairing?'

 

i tried blacktaping it..but think it makes it worse

 

tempted to change to UM1...UM2 too ex for me le..

 

is the UM1 better than the E2C in terms of sound quality?

 

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I'd reccomend placing a heat shrink wrap over the tear, it should help.

 

LOL, I am really interested to see how you can fit the heat shrink over the drivers or the plug...

 

OP: if it is still under warranty, they can be replaced with a new set. else, they can be replaced for a fee, but you would be simpler(and better) to upgrade...

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fabio84: UM1 and E2C have difference between then. On paper UM1 seems better. But some ppl say UM1 is a little muddy while E2C is more fun to listen too. Subjective on which is better.

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Its not hard, larger heat shrinks can go over the entire driver housing easily and still shrink to the wiring tightly, such as the one I use on my Shure attentuator. :P

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Replaced with a new set? Do I have to go to the shure distributer? IS it cheaper than getting a new pair of phones?

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Yep, you'd have to go to E&E (?). Chances are you'd have to wait, but if you're willing to wait, then why not? :)

 

If its under warranty, it should be repaired/replaced for free. If you want to get new earphones rather than waiting, be sure to audition first before making a decision.

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I recall heat shrinks to have a contraction ratio of 3:1 at the most so far so if the cable you're trying to shrink over is no more than 2mm in diameter, your mini stereo plug has to be at most 6mm thick for the shrink to go over. I doubt they are that small.

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But you are only thinking of a 6mm circle in simple 2-Dimensional sense and I am very shure the plug is bigger than that, not to forget navigating the "L" shape of the square plug...got to visualize in complex 3-Dimensional senses, just like how we see codings of the Matrix...

 

 

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The E2 wires are barely that thin.

 

From the time I had one, I compared its thickness to my E4. The E4 has a body cable of 3.5mm thickness and a 2.5mm thickness for the driver cables, which makes the E2 about 4-5mm in body thickness and about 3-4 mm for the driver cables.

 

For the driver cables, the heat shrink issue would be tricky, and I don't even think its possible, but for the body to plug cable, heatshrink wrapping the wire shouldn't even be a difficult matter.

 

Assuming that they're the same and that the cabling problem here lies on the body cable, Shure's angled connecting plug should be 5mm at its thinnest, and 1cm at its thickest where the plug bends.

 

This means that the heatshrink tubing must be at least 0.6cm^2 for the thing to get through, taking into account of its flexibility depending on the length that needs to be put through the plug, the shorter the better if you can see how the situation goes.

 

Taking into consideration that the Shure E2 cable is 4mm in diameter (minimum), this allows for the original neatshrink to have a 6mm radii, which gives the heatshrink an allowance of 1.1309cm^2, allowing it to easily bypass the needed obstacle area, even if its a little lengthy (e.g 2cm, though you won't even need such a length).

 

The obstacle point of a Shure angled plug that has the entire 0.6cm^2 area occupation max can easily allow for a heatshrink tube of the said area allowance of 1.5 cm to pass through effortlessly.

 

I'd do an animated 3D rendered scene in Maya for you if you don't understand, but I'm occupied with some character art commisions as of now, so that'll come later... If not never =P

 

But still, from an E2, if it decides to break down (touchwood), there's no wrong in purchasing a different set of earphones. In the sub-$100 category, you can always have a look at the OVC series, from the T10, T11 and TC20.

 

... What? o_O

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IPB Image

 

Just to see how difficult it is to fit a heat shrink into a Shure E2G. I used a pink ( easier for others to see) 7mm heat shrink with a 2:1 shrink ratio and manage to shrink to almost tight fit.

 

I would recommend a 7 or 8mm heatshrink with 3:1 shrink ratio to do the job, and if you want to perfect it, get one with glue in the inner tube (adhesive lined) to get a 100% water proof and air tight seal. Be careful when shrinking it down too, you don't want to melt off the other portions.

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IPB Image

 

Just to see how difficult it is to fit a heat shrink into a Shure E2G. I used a pink ( easier for others to see) 7mm heat shrink with a 2:1 shrink ratio and manage to shrink to almost tight fit.

 

I would recommend a 7 or 8mm heatshrink with 3:1 shrink ratio to do the job, and if you want to perfect it, get one with glue in the inner tube (adhesive lined) to get a 100% water proof and air tight seal. Be careful when shrinking it down too, you don't want to melt off the other portions.

 

 

gee...that is shurely more usefull than a whole chunk of text!!!

Edited by Morpheus

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Wow. Nice repair there. Unfortunately, the tear that occurs for my wire is at the wire nearest to the drivers...which means practically impossible to fit in...

 

Roughly how much to repairs cost, does anyone know?

 

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