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Coolben

Noob wanna build a Cmoy :)

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Oh, wrong pot -.-

Hmm, but whichever goes to earth doesn't matter?

 

Hmm, but on williamneo blog, the po has only 5 connections...

Can the earths be grouped into just one connection?

 

Thx :)

Umm, sigh gotta make a trip down to SLT again...

When is federal open?

Edited by Coolben

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Oh, wrong pot -.-

Hmm, but whichever goes to earth doesn't matter?

 

Hmm, but on williamneo blog, the po has only 5 connections...

Can the earths be grouped into just one connection?

 

Thx :)

Umm, sigh gotta make a trip down to SLT again...

When is federal open?

 

Coolben,

Where in williamneo blog is there the pot with 5 connections? Can't see it.

 

To answer your question, for non-balanced connections which is what we are doing with CMOY, the ground for left and right channel are combined.

 

Federal opens office hours.

 

heady

 

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Oh no, shipping fee required for national.com -.-

Sian, its way more ex than any OpAmp...

 

Oh, on here! --> http://bp2.blogger.com/_0URxOBSyTPQ/R4TeO0...0-h/Slide18.JPG

 

as the guru heady has said, the ground connections for the pot are combined, joined to the virtual ground. t

 

to help you

 

(1) Rchannel to op amp (4) Lchannel to op amp

(2) Rchannel from jack (5) Lchannel from jack

(3) Ground (6) Ground

 

 

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Thanks :)

 

I got a OpAmp, LM358N, and the dual pot. Going to wire up everything soon.

Is it a problem that the LED is super dim?

 

Edit: Dam, theres a super strong buzzing noise, and i dun really hear a diff in sq

 

Edit: Sigh, the connections at the pot are all loose, giving me problems, hard to solder there...

Waa :(

Edited by Coolben

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Edit: Sigh, the connections at the pot are all loose, giving me problems, hard to solder there...

Waa

 

sharing my soldering experience with you

if you're trying to solder the pins to wires, it's easier to put small amount of solder on both the pin and wire. later you just need to bring them close together, heat both wire and pin with your soldering iron and let the solder flow, remove soldering iron, and hold the wire in place for a while until the solder harden

 

hope it helps

practice makes perfect

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Thx for the tip :)

 

Sigh, everything went wrong after i put it into the casing, some soldered points broke and the LED suddenly couldn't light up...

 

I soldered everything back, then the amp worked for awhile, but fuzzy noise, then it blew out my earphones and i think the OpAmp smelled like it was burnt...

 

Sian, gotta buy all the parts again and go for round 2... :shocking:

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Thx for the tip :)

Sian, gotta buy all the parts again and go for round 2... :shocking:

 

As 1bit said, practice makes perfect. Words of wisdom here. Lost count of how many CMOY I killed before I got one working. So don't give up.

 

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As 1bit said, practice makes perfect. Words of wisdom here. Lost count of how many CMOY I killed before I got one working. So don't give up.

 

[attachmentid=4010]

 

Sigh at least it looks good, got 2 sets of components from Koba yesterday, ready for round 2! :grin:

 

Edit: Crap, the uncle at koba got me the wrong VRs, would 50k still work?

post-4541-1222832949_thumb.jpg

Edited by Coolben

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Wah, very pretty for a first attempt. Well done. A 50K pot for the volume is ok.

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Solder not sticking (wetting is the technical term) was also my problem when I first started. I found out things get soldered easier if I use solder flux. You can buy this in a tin from Sim Lim Tower. Use a toothpick and apply a tiny bit to the parts being soldered. This flux cleans up the parts to be soldered and the solder will wet it easily.

 

Second, if the soldering iron does not heat up the part fast enough the solder won't wet it either. Using a cheap and low powered iron, it is easier to damage the parts because need to hold the solder iron longer to the part before the solder melts.

 

I personally prefer a temperature controlled 75W iron, makes work easier for yourself. But it cost nearly a $100 and so worth it only if you will be doing lots of projects.

 

Cheers.

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Oh, so for now i guess i should wipe stuff clean before soldering, been using the parts straight out of the plastic bag so far :)

 

Edit: Doh' I realised one of the capacitors on the first amp i made was positioned wrongly, think tt caused the fireworks...

Edited by Coolben

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lol yes. you should see my first cmoy attempt. the post is still somewhere here i think. very ugly soldering. but like what everyone here says, practice makes perfect. i also realise that for the solder to stick to the components, the leads on the components have to be hot enough. if its cool, then it'll just stick to the soldering iron. that said, putting too much temperature on the components will damage it.

 

fyi, i fried 2 op-amps from overheating. but now i use those dip sockets. =D

 

and very very nice job on the casing. 1000x better than mine. even the current one i'm using hahah. keep it up (:

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