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Rameish

How To Keep Those Interconnects Clean

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It never fails to surprise me how many of my friends have expensive gear only to find that their interconnects and their respective RCA/XLR inputs have become oxidised over time.

The best time to clean these are when they are new - a little bit of ProGold will keep the connection in tip-top condition. If however you have let your connectors become oxidized then you would need to use Craig DeOxit first then Craig ProGold. There are 2 versions of progold - G5 which contains only 5% of progold and G100 which contains 100%. They can be bought at Electrades - if memory serves me right its S$65 (G100), S$45 (G5), S$40 (Deoxit). You would need some cotton buds (get the ones for children as they are smaler - the Cotton buds that is LOL. You may also need some pipe cleaner (tobacco dept Cold Storage). Yes, yes it's the same stuff that the army supplies to clean guns.

 

Use cleaning oils sparinly and remeber that the pipe cleaner has a wire running in the middle.

 

BTW ProGold G100 is supposed to last 10 years (depending on environment conditions). There is another Graig product called Preserve It but that you'll have to get from Craig's distributor in Kallang (can remember where - check their website). This solution/oil is for non gold plated stuff.

 

As usual you do all this at your own risk.

 

Just use common sense and dont spray any solution into gaps holes etc. Spray a little onto the cotton bud or pipe cleaner and clean the grunge off.

 

Do not use these products on tube/electron valve pins. The best way to clean grunge off valve/tube pins is to use a soft (for pencil) erasure. Make sure no bits of rubber residue is left on the pins. As a last resort you can try an ink erasure but this is a last resort thing as it works like sandpaper. Caution is key here. And, do remember, you're not polishing stuff just removing the oxidization. Don't expect it to become all shiny. Never use stuff like brasso - it's sorta okay for AC plugs but you'll have a hrad time removing all the polish off.

 

Keep Clean.

Peace.

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I reccomend Deoxit the surface then apply several layers of progold. I remember Progold has 20% the cleaning power of deoxit.

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You know what... I'm guilty of this misdemanour! But this cleaning stuff is soo expensive!

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Fish,

 

There are at least 2 versions of ProGold - one is G5 (5%) and the other is G100 (100%). Don't know about the 20%.

 

N@Z,

 

an alternative is: as pure as you can get denatured alcohol. Don't get the 75% stuff or rubbing alcohol. You may also use Philips Degreaser (blue cap) and then contact sparay (red cap). Lower grade though. Should not cost more than $16 for both!

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Rameish,

 

No, i meant the deoxidising effect of progold is 20% that of deoxit. The 5% & 100% refers to the purity of the progold forumla.

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Ah, okay now I got ya. How are the grado pads? Any signs of the black dandruff fallout after washing them?

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Most importantly, a blower for camera lens. If the cd lens really need a light brush, cotton buds followed by a few queeze of the blower should do the job.

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I guess cotton buds and blower will be OK for your EMC but how to go about it for the A3?

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cotton buds might scratch the lens. will it? Anyway, cotton buds are non-antistatic, so I don't really think it'd be a good idea. The rubbing might actually cause more dust to settle. I may be wrong, but so far my findings are so. I use a CD lens cleaner with antistatic burshes underneath. Matbon0013 has a antistatic brush(Same like the CD lens cleaer except this one instead of being stuck to a CD its stuck to a handle). I wonder where you can get that though. Oh yes, I've seen in popular a 6-bursh CD lens cleaner.

 

Edit: Maybe if you can find the antistatic brush, tell me where. I'd love to get one.

Edited by lekguan

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