radioactive28

I read from here ,

http://www.jlabaudio.com/burn.php

 

that

"The general rule is about 40 hours. Some people burn-in their headphones quickly playing them 40 hours continuously after bringing them home. This may not be good because, the diaphragm may be too weak at this time and should not be pushed to the limit. The best thing to do may be to plug your headphones into your computer or mp3 player, set the volume to medium, and let your music play for up to 4-5 hours a day for 5 days (perhaps, while you are at work or sleeping). After that, your headphones will most likely sound their best. Note: you do not need to listen the whole time."

 

Is this true? Because if it is , I might have f*cked up my ATH M50 by playing it continously for around 50~60 hours straight..

The diaphragm will get to its final settled state in any case, whether you do continuous burn-in, or just use it every day for a few hours (you know, like how most normal folks use their regular headphone?). Running it continuously makes no difference, because the material will not (and cannot, by design) deform to the point of damage, unless you subject it to too much instantaneous power.

Wise words, direcow.

 

Fact is, not even everyone think burning in is necessary for headphones. While others swear even the AC supply cable needs burning in, which to me, is moving into the metaphysical territory, where physics cannot explain.

 

Me, I just believe in burning in for things which move (eg. headphones, speakers etc) and also for capacitors which need to form during initial use. Things like wires, hmmm, I leave that to the believers.

Quoted for truth.

Truth you can believe in

Not limited to just headphones or earphones; vPost does not deal with anything containing lithium batteries (MP3 players, laptops) as well. Sending any of these items to the California address is a confirmed way of not getting your item, from what I've read in other forums.

Quite a shame, 'cos consumer electronics in the States is actually quite cheap.

-ohn' date='26 Apr 2010, 06:04 PM' post='123762']

It would still be more fair to compare when you get to hear them so as to not pass others in the forum the wrong idea. (nothing against you but I was misleaded a couple of times on the forum and I don't want this to happen on others. )

OT a little here, but it seems rather normal for such a subjective hobby. People are easily swept along in a wave, even for those who own the actual product in question, because, well... we're human.

Too bad for those being scammed. I hope you are not one.

Well, still safe for me since I don't go for online order.

Not quite a case of just 'too bad.'

Sennheiser's top of the line IE8 has been so masterfully counterfeited that even big retailers like Amazon (online) and Target (brick and mortar) got entire batches of fakes. Head-Fi's efforts to distinguish a fake from a real eventually boiled down to using the ears, because they couldn't find physical differences otherwise.

I haven't actually used true customs before, nor remolded customs, but I've been looking at them as an option for my next purchase (not happening for another year at least, admittedly, since I just bought something new this year).

You might want to consider the issues raised here.

My take-away from that thread is that anything designed from the ground up, be they full-sized headphones, IEMs (customs or universal) or earbuds, has had more thought put into the fine details than a re-shell.

Not to say that re-shells aren't good, but unless the re-shelling party is going to take the effort to re-create the fine details, I probably wouldn't consider a re-shell IEM to be a custom version of the same IEM (as far as sound signature is concerned). It'd be a different IEM, albeit cannibalising the drivers from your (favourite?) universal IEM.

Not to swing the opinion one way or the other, but just think of it as paring your expectations.

Maybe TS is using the wrong size of foams, since you already know what a good seal should sound like?

Another possibility is bad foams. I'm surprised no one has complained before (or at least, I don't see a lot of complaints), but I used to get a few lousy foams whenever I buy a few pairs. They leak sound despite sitting snugly in my canals. I think quality is much better now, but I still get the occasional lousy ones.

Maybe your laptop's sound just lousy.

The quality isn't stellar like what we're used to, but it performs decently. To be sure, I think it's a system glitch that's causing the problem, maybe the driver or the background audio service, because it just happens every so regularly, whether or not I turn up the volume.

Erm, that's not really a solution; more like side-stepping the problem, doesn't help us poor-wallet kids =/

As long as it works, I guess =)

I'm using a Fujitsu T-series with onboard Altek HD soundchip, got the same distortion.

Managed to kill it for a while, but can't remember what I did back then.

Think you should re-evaluate your objectives for wanting to get an amp. Power output is not the same as sound quality, and improving on one does not necessarily improve the other, as blackmouth0 mentioned.

Getting a decent player with decent 'phones will get you way more mileage than an amp for the same price, and is definitely better than getting all three components for a rather limited budget.

ah sucks.. it will take me ages to save tat much currently..

Sounds like an issue with self-discipline?

If you're working, hobbies are a blackhole in your wallet. If you're not (like me), got to wait 2 years to finally purchase something decent. After your last purchase of something decent -__-

Thread necro!

syndony, are those with vocals or purely instrumental?

Jazz is good for house music before an event starts, if it's a formal event.

I realised playing pop stuff off someone MP3 player covers most informal student events.

Thanks!

This should really be under the PC audio sub-forum...

Audacity is pretty decent, and the latest revision has batch processing, although I haven't tried the feature myself.

It's free open-source software, and has most (if not all) advanced features you would find on any decent editor.

It's available for PC/Mac/Linux.

How do you tell what material its made of?

 

Also, by apply electricity, you mean play music through it right?

I have no idea, but most buds probably use polymer or metal-coated polymer.

And, yeah, play music. Water and electricity don't mix. It's counter-intuitive, but the moment your electronics meet water, dry it and leave it aside to dry more. Resist the urge to check whether it's still working, because the moment you power it up, it's more likely to die.

I previously had my PDA die on me this way (water all over the main board + power up), while another user reported it working fine after thorough drying for a few days.

Actually, if the diaphragm of your buds aren't made of materials that can be spoilt by water (like cardboard, etc), you only have to wait for them to dry. The circuitry in normal earphones shouldn't get damaged by water alone, as long as you let it dry completely before applying electricity.

For desiccation, flooding with alcohol will normally work as well, but the diaphragm/glue might be completely dissolved by the alcohol.

Interesting

I guess one concern would be whether or not the volume is safe, and the device has that covered.

Think a 5-year-old won't try to eat the player, right?

Another thing: get the kid started on the right footing, don't give her poorly-encoded tracks

Thanks for the confirmation, good to know =)

Needed to check because all the latest batches of The Beatles remasters (those in Digipaks) are copy-protected. The non-protected, non-South American ones have mostly disappeared from local markets.

I haven't heard the SHMs before, but are they all newly-remastered? 'cos I'm in the camp that believes bits are bits and good music is good; the medium doesn't really matter.

Anyway, I'm doing separate archiving in FLAC, but putting MP3s on my portable.

Not sure if everyone is aware of these, but ever since they started producing SHM-CD in Japan last year (or is it the year before?), a lot of old stuff have been re-issued. Old, like some of Sinatra's original albums which began life as vinyl.

I figure it's a good chance to get some oldies without converting to vinyl, even if they're somewhat on the pricey side (S$45/disc), but any idea if these CDs are copy-protected?

I'm firmly with MP3s, so not much point if I can't rip the tracks.

Thanks.

Any remolded-E4c users can comment, if the sound does change significantly enough?

How are IEMs with changeable filters, e.g., ER-6/i, E4c, handled? Are they eligible for reshelling?

I should think they won't do away with the filter entirely, ER-6i sounds harsh and unrefined without its filter.

Hmm, just visited the registration page.

Seems to be a new function, display name can be different from log-in name.

I don't recall this from when I registered, or maybe I put the same for both, for sanity's sake.

Login name != display name is something new to me.

i see, any place to get the replacement parts？

I don't have links handy, but for iPod-specific parts, Google. Have seen quite a few sites selling.

For battery, check out worcell.com. They're local, and my experience (3 batteries) with them so far has been decent.

For the 1.8" HDD, can scavenge around Sim Lim or Funan laptop repair shops. They take the HDD out of dead laptops to sell separately. Google works as well, but you'll need to take a little risk, especially if you try eBay.

just hijack the thread for a while, is it possible to change the ipod battery... my ipod 5 gen battery life can only last for 3 hours now.

Yes.

Slightly OT, but I'm quite tempted to pick up a 2nd-hand iPod, just to get the experience of opening it up.

btw, radioactive28, where did u get the connectors to recable the er4?

Didn't, and probably not going to anymore. Was planning to use the standard UE or Westone cable though.