Jump to content

dreamie

Senior Member
  • Content Count

    149
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by dreamie


  1. Looks reasonable..  I hope your R2 isn't 100k since you opted for using ~0.1uF signal caps.  Try 220k/ 470k instead.

     

    4-pin DIP socket?  That's interesting..

    Hmm.. how would the R2 value staying at 100k affect the overall circuit? Thanks in advance for the forthcoming enlightenment. party.gif

    Read the META42 article on the signal cap value and u'd know why.. I'm not about to spoonfeed ya.

    It's in the original META webby I suppose? It's late.. i'll search tmr. happy.gif Thanks.. seems like there's still hope..


  2. Completed my CMOY. It sounds like a MALFUNCTIONING RADIO WITH EXTREMELY BAD RECEPTION!!! Lots of static like sound... Tried it on a headphone for a few seconds but my ears begged for mercy so i used it as a preamp and I could hear it more clearly on the speakers alot of static like noise. mad.gif Could it be because of the PIO? Old caps sound like old radio... dry.gif

     

    My previous CMOYs without any caps didnt sound this bad!!

     

    I'm gonna scrap the PIO... gonna save me alot of board space. Are the Evox Rifa caps any good?

     

    AHHH... MY WEEKENDS WASTED!! mad.gif


  3. Why don't you read the datasheet? The info are all there if you put a little effort to go thru it. And the best thing is you'll learn something more from the datasheet.

     

    From Datasheet, the TLE2426 max current out is +- 80ma

     

    Max output from Burr Brown's OPA like the 2132 or 2604 (from memory) is about +- 35ma... TLE2426 is more than enough, coz more than often the OPA don't reach to 35ma, unless you're driving low impedance headphone like the Grado.

     

    You're doing a Cmoy right? So I assume you'll be usingn just one opamps without buffer.

    blush.gif Guess I was too carried away to forget to read the datasheet.. my apologies... blush.gif

     

    Hmm... then I suppose I can use the TLE2426 to power a pair of opamps after all.

     

    Thanks for your enlightenment. party.gif


  4. they draw next to nothing on idle.

     

    they can draw quite abit depending on the load.

    Thanks for your input.

     

    Any idea how much it draws for the worse condition? Thanks.

     

    I guess i will settle with a simple voltage divider as per Cmoy schematic. The PIO caps are taking up almost half of an Altoids tin can. blink.gif Oh yea, I got an Altoids tin can, found it somewhere in the house. rolleyes.gifhappy.gif


  5. Hmm... have some questions regarding the TLE2426. I'm afraid it can't supply enough current to the opamp. (most probably OPA627, 637 or AD8610) Are there any solutions to it? Tangent audio mentioned BUF634, but that's gonna eat into precious real estate. The PIO caps have already claimed owner on a large plot on land... no.gif


  6. Looks reasonable.. I hope your R2 isn't 100k since you opted for using ~0.1uF signal caps. Try 220k/ 470k instead.

     

    4-pin DIP socket? That's interesting..

    Hmm.. how would the R2 value staying at 100k affect the overall circuit? Thanks in advance for the forthcoming enlightenment. party.gif

     

    R5 is optional, but is it good to have one? Thanks once again. holiday.gif

     

    Got that socket from Koba. It is inside the bag of normal sockets... just gotta look hard enough. w00t.gif


  7. Hi everyone.

     

    I would like to view the schematics of some CMOY amp variations, could some kind soul put it here? THank you! party.gif

     

    I have acquired the following components for the project.

     

    2* Matsush*ta (Panasonic) LXF series 680uF 16V capacitor.

    4* 0.068uF Nichicon 'Paper-in-oil' (PIO) whistling.gif capacitor.

    8* 1% metal film resistors.

    1* 5% carbon resistor.

    2* 3.5mm socket.

    2* 4-pin DIP IC socket (Made by Texas Instruments... patented. w00t.gif )

     

    Anything I left out? happy.gif

     

    I plan to parallel 2 of the PIO caps to get closer to the 0.1uF. Takes up alot of real estate, but it is PIO. w00t.gif

     

    Planning to use the TLE2426 virtual ground driver to obtain ground reference, instead of using a voltage divider ala CMOY style.

     

    Please advise. Thanks a million! showoff.gif


  8. can get some idea of the size difference from this pic, its only a little longer then the Altoids

    user posted image

     

    its actually a better choice if u r using 2 batts smile.gif

    Thanks. Seems like only the Hudson and that chinese sweet is available in Singapore.

     

    You got any of them up for sale/giveaway? biggrin.gif


  9. i was looking for those strepsils tins before i found the Altoids smile.gif now all the strepsils come in plastic packings

    Everything comes in non-recycleable (a.k.a. use-and-dispose) package nowadays. dry.gif

     

    Just saw the Hudson at 7-11 for $3.08. Seems a bit 'long', which makes it look kinda improportional. Any comments on this tin can?


  10. Have scoured through the last 4 page but found nothing related to it, only a comment by Firefox stating 7-11 and Guardian retailing Altoids, but it is followed by a comment which says the Altoids cant be found at 7-11. dry.gif

     

    As so, I would really appreciate it if someone would tell me where to get it. Thanks in advance.

     

    I don't really like the Hudsons. blush.gif Prefer the Altoids and the Penguin with the striking background. party.gif

     

    Thanks once again! headphone.gif


  11. I know that there are a lot of cases of the megaworks blowing their fuses and having blown their subs... might be an indication of shabby construction. I have no idea for gigaworks. Its a very new product.

     

    At that price papaya, get the klipsch 5.1 speakers.

    I'm a happy user of the megaworks, no blown subs...

    Francis' Megaworks blew after a few days of blasting. wink.gif


  12. Confirm its power output stage is MOS FET K214/J77.

    The tubes are for input and voltage amplification,

    and "current driving stage"?

    (sorry, hopefully you guy/gal know what I am talking,

    correct me if I am wrong)

     

    What tubes? let me pull out the whole thing and see.

    Need to de-solder some connections.

     

    How does it sound? good question,

    This is the one thousand and one headamp I have,

    The only thing I can say is......

    I have nothing to compare.

    I supposed the tubes work as a buffer?


  13. I hope you read the entire thread where I did the mod.

     

    desolder: use soldering wick to suck up all the solder and pry the opamp off the board lah

    wah.. this kinda desodler method ah...

     

    i rather use hot air gun.. but afraid the other smt stuff ard the opamp falls off leh..

     

    btw, i read finish whole thread still no idea which are the opamps to change..... or shld i change all w00t.gif

     

    thx again. may replace all the output caps with blackgates when i have the moola sleep.gif

×
×
  • Create New...