niccon
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Posts posted by niccon
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Hey all, ive decided to tube roll my SRM-T1S...only problem is that i dont have tubes!
So, does anyone know where to get matched pairs of tubes? Im looking for 6CG7/6FQ7, preferably Toshiba, Matsush*ta, Raytheon or RCA clear tops
Thanks!
Try Well Audio and Martin at Burlington Square else ebay for more choice and sometimes better pricing.
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not yet, maybe i will. oh and i read somewhere that the protector 4 pin connector is proprietary of RSA.. not good news then..
No, it is not. i saw in an online US site selling both male and female connector at only few usd but i cant recall which site now. Let me try to recall and revert.
ha..ha.. found it
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/641/1139.pdf
http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/Audio-...-191J-E&FS=True
for toucan amp, the connector can be bought off RS or Farnell, cant remember which again, getting old so memory not too good.
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Intending to get a new balanced headphone but unsure which one to lookout before researching more about it and auditing. Please help to provide some suggestion to start.
Listening mostly to j-pop, neo classical vocal, new age & piano music. Bass - not too strong but impactful & focus, high quality mids & treble, sound stage airy (dimensional) and good music/vocal sepration.
Hope able to shortlist under the S$1.5K if possible else with capping at S$2k max.
TIA
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External condition is about 9 on scale of 10
No issue on sound quality except the normal slight unbalance loudness at low volume (normal for volume potential meter). At normal listening level both side loudness is balanced for high sensitive iem (TF10 & JH16).
Age is about 2yrs.
Battery life still good.
Original package content.
Ibasso V2 Viper with op amp looking at 175
PM me for offers.
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Have been getting hooked to diy after my last try recently and wishes to do more in future. I used a switchcraft 3.5mm jack the last round. Although its construction & appearance are good, i found the centre pin (left channel?) hard to solder. I wonder it was due to my lack of experience, under rated solder iron (using 30w now) or wrong tactic.
I tried melting a small pool of solder on pin but found it hard to stay on it. After solder stays on the pin, I reheat the solder to melt it before bringing in the exposed wire. The reheat took a long while.
Also I found great difficult to melt some solder on the exposed wire that I gave up trying after a while. I do it by placing the soldering tip on the wire and solder behind the wire. Did I do it correctly?
Please advise for more fun experience in my next attempt.
Thanks.
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I hate to say this but, bad choice bro... not to say that their products aren't good. but i recently bought a 4% silver solder from them and it can barely stick on my connector. Most of the time, i ended up mixing it with normal 60/40, tin/lead. However viewpoints may differ from person. As a beginner, i'd advice going for normal 60/40 or the 2% silver. I can't say anything about the mundorf silver solder since i'm yet to try.
Mine has no issue so far, let hope it will stays that way.
IIRC silver solder has a higher melting point - so a 30 w soldering iron might not be hot enough
Quite true, I used a 30w soldering iron and have problem getting it melting. It takes a while before solder starts to melt.
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koba do not sell the switchcraft connector with gold plated but ordinary plastic 90deg type. i went to LHS to get.
mundorf silver solder can get from leda resources
lazy to order, since i was at koba, bought a small pre packed 4% Ag solder from them. it looks more shiny then normal solder which i used. is this how other silver solder look like too?
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You can get some from Koba at $6
many thanks, thats is a lot of saving for me
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I use mundorf silver solder which cannot be found in Singapore as far as I know. Switchcraft plugs cost $8 each. Half of Viablues
Wow, please advise where to get at $8, i was told at the price is around $10-12 depending on which shop i buy from.
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I use silver solder mainly for the improved strength. I do feel silver solder is worth it because it isn't a whole lot more expensive.
oh..which silver solder then , there is a few to choose from.
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Do practice on Neutrik plugs when you're just starting. Perhaps the most practical plug to me is the Switchcraft plugs as the plugs are more sturdy and easier to solder compared to Viablue plugs.
Viablue plugs do look good in pictures but when it came to the real life object I wasn't so impressed with the plastic feel and the stress relief isn't great either
Performance wise, unless you have ears that are so extremely sensitive, there's practically no difference.
dont think my hearing is so sensitive. can i clarify that if plug makes almost no diff then the solder will not be much of a concern right? i was intending to use solder with silver content, looks like i can fall back on normally solder.
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However do consider cost, for the price of 1 viablue, u can easily buy 2 switchcraft jacks.
ya it is the cost that prompts me to post for clarification here. i wasnt keen to spend more unless there is a good reason to do so.
Btw I just found out the price of vaiblue is almost the same as switchcraft, under 2dollar diff.
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New to diy . Intend to diy a new 3.5mm jack for earphone cable and lod cable thus wondering which is a better choice in term of performance improvement or both is equally good? The cable for earphone is twag and lod is both twag and qable Silvercab-pro which i am modifying the connection. TIA
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I bring them around by banding them togather and placed inside my backpack. At times the LOD cable will be bend due to movement (my LOD cable was damaged once to the lose termination issue on 30pins connector end) , can you share how you cope with it? At least to minimise chances of damages or inconvienent.
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Reserved one for you!
You could try it at our store in Plaza Singapura Demo sets available for RS160, RS170 and RS180.
It is always ready for listening It's connected to our CD player.
Regards,
brian
Great, can try togather with the Ultimate Link Reference connector; it is here already right?
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anybody find adding another mid driver(which is what UM does right?) crowds out the bass and trebles?
I'm thinking whether to just reshell or to add a driver too..
so far the reviews i have gathered over other forum has been mixed. the risk or preferrence is there from my reading. i figured out while there is a significant saving on remould (even with adddtion mid driver) but once the sound is not what you want or like then it will be total ruin with no another option but to discard to buy a new one. thus with that in mind, i am more or less decided on getting a new set over remould.
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you could always do a add mid driver, it just costs a little more..
it is treble that is affected, how does adding mid driver helps; please elaborate.
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Found a topic on comparing the custom TF10 and universal TF10 in other forum, seems like the custom will impact on the treble.
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I tried it stereo, though its not ready for testing... they might obliged if its not during their peak hours.
Thanks, which branch did you go for testing? Btw how to test the surround sound effect, do they have play a movie?
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Yup... the sennheiser wireless using Kleer technology is really impressive. Considering the fact that it's wireless... performance was too good to be true. Not that I had tried any wireless headphones that sounds like that. So I added the RS180 to my collection ... too good of a wireless headset to resist.
should be quite ex, right? where to try this baby?
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-ohn' date='10 Mar 2010, 09:11 AM' post='122813']Collected mine yesterday and asked about the 6 and 8 drivers, 6 drivers reshell is $600++ and 8 drivers is $1000++, sending in another TF10 for 8 driver reshell this week.
Got my set back on Friday!
TF10 (Quad driver)
anyone care to share your experience of the new 8 driver reshell. thought of going this path.
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OT a bit.. has anyone tried double/triple flanges on a TF10 before? how will it affect the SQ? im thinking of getting a pair soon.. after my complys are used up
tried but did not spend time to notice on the SQ since i dislike the fit thus changing back to foam again. to me foam is most comfortable and offers better sealing thus a better noise isolation.
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I haven't actually used true customs before, nor remolded customs, but I've been looking at them as an option for my next purchase (not happening for another year at least, admittedly, since I just bought something new this year).
You might want to consider the issues raised here.
My take-away from that thread is that anything designed from the ground up, be they full-sized headphones, IEMs (customs or universal) or earbuds, has had more thought put into the fine details than a re-shell.
Not to say that re-shells aren't good, but unless the re-shelling party is going to take the effort to re-create the fine details, I probably wouldn't consider a re-shell IEM to be a custom version of the same IEM (as far as sound signature is concerned). It'd be a different IEM, albeit cannibalising the drivers from your (favourite?) universal IEM.
Not to swing the opinion one way or the other, but just think of it as paring your expectations.
thanks for the heads up on the issue. it was an interesting read on the topic. my biggest concern is losing treble I like so much whether a remoulded TF10 or a more neutral JH13/16.
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It does have a spacious sound and quite possibly the largest sound-stage found on iem and their instrument separation is second to none but nothing stands out on the 13. It is quite simply the most neutral pair of headphones I have ever tried but you might want to re-think your options before you pull the trigger. As good as they might be spending a few thousand dollars on a pair of headphone is gonna hurt. Specs-wise, they are one of the best out there but some people might find them too neutral for their liking. If you like treble there are other option out there but I'm not sure whether you can get it in Singapore. UM the re-shelling company seems to have their own line of custom one of which is called Mage. From what I've read it seems to be good with treble and many people seems to like it. Live-wires are also another option to go for and they are relatively cheap for a custom so check those out as well.
thanks, will do a little more research.
where to buy the mini balanced XLR?
in DIY Section
Posted · Edited by niccon · Report reply
stereo out of stock last week when my friend tries, LHS have stock $30-35, i think. Koba may be bringing in.
actually if you buy more than 2pcs, buy from ibasso cheaper, USD9/pc + USD15 shipping, buy few more also same shipping cost so buying 2pcs from ibasso is like SGD23 after conversion. want to start an MO?