tropicalrips

ATH-M40fs accurate & neutral (D40fs is the bass enhanced version)

isolation is quite good too, more forward compared to W1000

price $150 at SLS

Nice batt...

 

Who got good camera can lend me?

the rechargeble 9v is actually a little smaller then the non-recharge ones, i tried 2 non-recharge and they don't fit in the case

kenshinz sorry i didn't reply your SMS today

was too busy didn't see the msg

No problem... actually the sms was sent on monday when I went down to SLT

BTW nice work on your amp, could pick up a few pointers from you when I start on mine

lol that means my SMS SUPER LAG

only see the sms today

jason your pic making me dizzy

what is that? super-charged CMOY ?

kenshinz sorry i didn't reply your SMS today

was too busy didn't see the msg so did u find the op-amp?

i'll try SLT tomorrow, also need the correct volume pot i bought the case today & the 2 pole switch, hope can finish by friday

below is a pic of the cmoy with the case and new switch, i hav decided to go with the 2 batt design for this first amp

jason

my volume pot only has 3 legs

is it still the same connection as u said?

as for the on/off switch, do i need a 2 pole switch that off both the + & - ?

cause one of the 9v will still be connected in the circuit even when the switch is off rite? will it drain the batt

done liao

not sure if i got everything rite

heres a shot of my Cmoy without the OP-amp

still need to trim the board, looks a little too big

Kenshinz, when can see yours ? oh and thanks for helping me get the parts

hav to top-up my Ezlink tomorrow

why it finish so fast these days

i think her name is Miwa Oshiro

more of her here

miwa oshiro

let me ask her if she wants to come to the meet on jan

everyone meet my sister

ok i see it now , thanks JTfoo

hey Kenshinz u found the Op-Amp yet?

let me know when u do, i want to get a few for myself too

hav to prepare for the thing becoming "chao tar" for first try

i still breaking in my W1000 after one month

i think they are sounding better & better, or maybe thats just in my head

thanks for pointing that out CKNG

was getting lost in my own writing, knew i forgot somthing

Mic

i think we all agree that a neutral & flat sounding headphone is probably best suited for blackice's application

so guys anyone with any suggestions?

my contribution :

ATH-M40fs

ATH-M30

if buget permits

for somthing really cheap :

berhringer HPS3000 (>$50 , closed monitor headphone)

ah okok i understand. btu shouldnt headphones for instruments like piano be simlilar in type to headphones for classical music?

well u can say that its both true & not true at the same time...kind of hard to explain, when u are listening to your instrument, u are hearing the sound of that instrument, but when u listen to "music" its a different story

when u listen to classical music or any type of music, what u are hearing is the final mix of the recording that has been mastered by the sound engineer, he would hav added all the "staging" or effects to the mix, echos, reverb, chorus all these stuff to color the music, make it sound "polished" or "tailored".

without all these the CD will sound like a Demo disc, raw & unrefine. in order to bring out the sound that the engineer wants u to hear, u need a headphone that can reproduced the music with all of its polished details, thats when u need a pair of cans that has the range, able to place all the instruments on their respective locations on stage, when all of these come together, u would be able to tell that the guitar is infont of the drums or that the backing vocals are standing just left on the stage...and so on, get the picture?

if u use this same headphone for your instrument, then what u are hearing is not the true sound of that instrument, so if you are doing recordings, this may giv u problems, as u don't hav a breakdown of what your instruments sound like, cause these phones are usually not forward enough, everything will sound like they are in the background, or far away from u, in the final mix.

so it all comes down to what u want to do with the sound u get from your instrument, but i think if u play an instrument, then most likely u will want it to sound un-colored & upfront

hope this can giv u clearer picture of the difference between a headphone for instrument & a headphone for music

Besides Tenson I think only Gryphon & one other member here uses headphones for listening to instruments hence why there is a lack of replies. But as a pair of new headphones for music it is very good value for money.

i think if you hav the buget can go for the Audio Technica range of studio phones, they are not very expensive,

i hav the D40fs, which is bass enhanced, theres another M40fs, which is flat perfect for instruments and recordings

these phones are very "accurate" cost around $150

i hav also tested the ATH-M30 which is about $30 cheaper, and sound almost as good as the 40 series, its hard to tell these closed/studio phones apart from the sound alone as they are all very forward sounding, which is great for instruments and recordings and mixing

if u are going to do your own recordings, i would not suggest the D40fs as the bass is a little too strong, and u would end up with a track that is too weak in the bass area in your final mix, cause its very likely that u lower the bass during mixdown, the opposite is true to the other open phones, u will end up with something that has too much bass or too dark, as the open phones tend to be bright

so look for something that is forward sounding (less staging) and flat, this way u can get the true sound of your instruments into the recording, then mix your sound to the way u want people to hear it

if use 1 9v batt the layout will still be the same?

or need to change something?

No problem always good to have another person working together. For the guide and parts list, I got them off Tangent's site, I think its best if you read through it 1st. the link is provided below. I might be going down on Monday to SLT. Will give you a call if I'm there, so we can go shop for the parts together ?

 

http://www.tangentsoft.net/audio/

kenshinz i hav seen the parts list on Tangent's site...but i'm a little confussed by it

i counted no more then 12 individual components on the drawing, but the list has more then that, that means the others are alternates or optional right?

if so which are the ones u bought?

tropicalrips,

the first opamp is to amplify the audio signal. The second one is to control the volume for each output.

this part looks different from the CMOY, is it an improvement?

can it also be integrated into the Cmoy design?

one more thing... in the drawings of Kenshinz & CKng, where do i put the volume control if i want it?

If so try to find which shop that sells opamp (latest and current). I know one shop in basement quite good in transistor....

 

Don't mind tumpang for me...

Thanks....

in SLS or SLT?

u can't find op-amps in SLS either, i tried today

because some of the SLT shops hav branch in SLS so i thought i giv it a try, but no luck, all the other components should be no problem in SLS, thats why i thought i go for the OP-amp first

there are still some shops in SLS at the back lanes that also carry will try them on monday

Kenshinz next week i'm off on wed, so i can't go SLT on mon, i can only look for the parts during luchbreak

hey i'm also interested in building one for myself

maybe we can help each other out.

i'm in SLS everyday, so i can get the parts more easily, but i don't know what are needed...

maybe u can giv me a list and i can get parts for both of us, i can follow your board layout

jason,

i hav opened up my rolls ha204 amp, the "something else" u saw on it is another OP-amp i think... so it has a total of 5 op-amps, but that hidden one has a different number from the rest, and i think its wired to input side, between the other 4 op-amps & output side, not sure what it actually does.

i think u r right about it being similar to the CMoy, but the numbers on the Op-amp is different.

Kenshinz, u think your Cmoy can be ready by the next meet? hope to see what it can do

I add the poly cap in the opamp position as the AD8610 is just below the board. Too bad you guys didn't flip it around.... 

yes,yes it was there i saw it

or rather i saw some more components under the board when i took it out

i want to know if it smells like a new car

Jason,

 

It seems you put bypass caps for the opamps? Those huge heat sinks makes your PPA look like a high end graphic card..

not sure what that means but the PPA sure sounds good, gave more details to my Koss plug

i also thinks its very close to my Creek OBH-11 se in terms of sound