jtfoo

Ar blue LED chio mah...

Sorry to let you know, I also chose blue LED..

paiseh...

You're a bass freak right? Then you'll love the bass boost feature...

From the catalogue, $1.62 + GST

Yah, the same CLiff jack, but I got it from Farnell instead. Didn't know LHS has the Cliff.

I've listened to it with the the default ADD8610 for a while. Intend to swap to a OPA637 in later date. Overall 1st impression is this guy got speed and is very fast. Listening to rock music is very exciting and lively. Thouroughly enjoyed listening to Green Day, Ramones on it.. The bass boost is very strong. With Metallica's ONE (about 4:36min), my ears were literally flapping inside the DT880. Kinda nice have ear massaging feeling while listenings to MEtallica, certainly is a bonus While it didn't had the ear flapping effect when I tried the Sony EGGO and Grado SR125, the bass was generally stornger without the boost.. I'm using 68nf // 15nf to get total 83nf, and the bass is already strong, so I would think using the default 100nF that is on the schematics will be too overwelming.

I've some time in between the baby sleeps and managed to complete my PPA. Here's the picc, Above is the a pic of the PPA and my SLA battery supply. The swtich in front of the PPA is for the bass boost. My old Meta42 besides the PPA The Back, with on/off, DC in, RCA. And the Porn.

Well, the capacitance mearement would be useful, but I do wish that they could measure w wider range than 1nF-9999uF. If you can hunt one down for very less than $200, I think it worth it. I wouldn't be upgrading my Sanwa at all, if there's is any need to do more seious DIY, investing in the LC meter would be my next target. LC meter meter would provide better range & accuracy for capacitance and inductance measurement. But not now at the moment.

Hey, that's the same one I'm using at home... Yes, it's more than suffucient. Those $200 Fluke will not have anything extra that this Sanwa has. In my company, we're using the Fluke 79 series, and I don't see what it can do that the Sanwa can't do..

I'm also using a sanwa DMM at home.. Good enough for most diy application and doesn't cost a bomb like the Fluke.

Thanks guys.. Born on LKY's birthday somemore...

Still catching my breath and still a long way behind Ablaze is my incomplete PPA.. Project has been put on hold as there's an arrival of a very important person to our life..

You can get MAT02 & MAT03 monolithtic dual-fets from Analog Devices Sampling program as replacements for the 2SK389 & 2SJ109 fets. These are direct altenative replacements? Thanks for info

Lazy people like me would leave the fibre there..

ysl, I see you have the 2SK389 and 2SJ109 in your board. Where did you get them?

Good luck on the transistors.. I've put on hold the gilmore project because I couldn't find the 2SK389 & 2SJ10 locally.. Maybe you can ask those stayng outside of S'pore to order for you. Matching LEDs,another nightmare. You'll need to bring your muiltimeter to SLS and test the forwarding voltage of the LEDs. or if you're rich, buy the whole lot and test at home. Sorry if I sound discouranging.

Look's good, congrats to the first known PPA builder in S'pore. I have to play catchup. Only manage to solder in the all resistors It's already an overkill with total of 4000uF. But I'll still stick 8 of 1000uF into those C1 space in the spirit of kiasu. Just got them Nichicon MUSE from Koba.. As for BASS boost, really don't know which value of C7 to use, coz so limitied range to choose from anything between 68nF and 100nF.

That would be difficult without you installing the dil socket. Just leave one buffer installed in any of the socket and test for sound.

I just finished admiring the board... Will progress the next stage soon...

Your power regulator could be damaged by that. Measured the output voltage again before your plug it in to be safe.

Yup, 0.5V should be the forwarding voltage of a typical 1N400X... Use the same method you can check the polarity of your LED. I also notice you haven't jumpered across the S2. Solder wire across if you don't intend to add C7 & R7 for the bass boost.

Most DMM should have a diode check mode that measured the forwarding voltage of your diode. The symbol on the DMM should be that of a diode symbol. Putting the DMM's black lead on the white band of the diode and the red lead on the other end, will will the forwarding voltage of the diode.. No display means your diode not working or your have mixed up the ends. You can check your LED with this method too..

Superficial wound.. Usually still OK..