neutralzz

yes it is operating at 220-300v depending on the transformer you use, that is the only high voltage part but its not much of a hazard if you wire it carefully and accurately. POST tubes are german tubes that was used for communication back then... and the d3a, c3g series are 3rd generation post tubes, so superbly made that the tubes are self supporting, i.e. mica spacers do not touch glass envelop.. for low noise etc. yes input is typically RCA so if your DAC output is to normal RCA interconnect, it can be used. more information here http://www.jacmusic.com/nos/C3g-C3m-info.html

ah.. i was going without a schematic actually.. just following the curves on http://www.4tubes.com/DATASHEETS/SCANS-Original/C/ i.e. rk 180 ohm that goes onto the kathode idle current at 17ma and with my current cheapo toroidal trafo of rectified voltage 220v+ which suggests a plate load resistor of 13k (i'm using something lesser than that now cuz i've yet to hit koba/slt to pick up more components).. and triode strapping.. just a grid stopper of 500ohms or 1k on the grid to reduce oscillations, and a anode load of 10k between anode and ground, capacitatively coupled to output with cheap 10uf 400v caps i'll draw it out soon.. its a lot simpler than it sounds....

actually dont need PCB bah..its quite simple a design plus normal PCB copper is not quite "audio grade" i'm planning to rebuild it soon, and might adopt the typical "vintage amp" layout which is much easier something like this of the mullard 20 watts will look neater

thanks.. prototyping right now.. intending to vary the anode load and the bias, if it goes well, it could very well be a aural master piece, with the cheapest of parts the whole amp only costs a hundred over dollars, but some people say its 心里障碍for something that cheap to sound ok/good, so i might build a 1k+ part cost version of this.

built a c3g amp in triode mode based on the datasheet specs the sound? superb! no wonder pre-amps of reference standard uses these tubes, i.e. ypsilon, ayon etc, yamamoto uses c3m to drive their 300b in their A11 amplifier. whole amp was rigged out of spare parts here and there, including an el'cheapo power supply and simlim tower parts.. nothing audiophillic as it was just a prototype to see if tube sounds good before using good parts etc. the only expensive thing was the blackgate cap on the cathode because i couldnt rummage out anything of the value required out of my stash except the gates coupling cap to output is cheap german mkp capacitors etc, total wiring with up-occ copper (leftover from old project), original NOS siemens socket as i couldnt find other cheap loctal sockets in singapore thus had to sacrifice my NOS stock.

any non-headphone tube amps to share?

SRPP is "old school" but still sounds good as ever but my main preference now is still SESS (single end single stage)

is that a sprague orange drop cap i see there? i use a pair too how you like the grado with this amp? i once had an sr80 with it but it wasnt quite my cup of tea so i went beyers

i still dont feel a need to max out the caps unless you know the sound of what you're going to make. start with a cheap cap, and if the setup sounds good, put in better caps. the prices of a pair of good capacitors can buy you a commercial amplifier already..

you're using DC heaters? i've had good aural results with a 6dj8 on pre and a pair of cheap 6n11 you can consider beyer dt880 etc. sounds pretty sweet on the mj amp

i've one too except i've dismantled the power supply for use in another project its a good sounding amp if you've weeded out all traces of hum (hey even commercial tube headphone amps hum.. ) i used to use mine with beyerdynamics they go pretty well. whats your value of R7?

thanks having gotten rid of most of my headphones now i'm using this amp as a pre-amp which works pretty well sharing a couple more pictures

the dotted line in your schematic in the middle of the circle is the grid, so for left channel you can connect it to G on the 9 pin tube, and for right channel you can connect to G1. for the resistor 47k & the input to opamp, you connect the tube's plate, which is the anode, denoted by A in the 9 pin diagram. for your cathode, you actually connect it to ground, the input to ground is paralleled to the tube via a 1M resistor. so you connect K and K1 of the tube directly to the ground. pins 4 and 5 will be your heater pins. the LM317 will run hot in this case, you can bend it and screw it to the chassis to use that as a heatsink or buy a chip heatsink

well too bad i dont have an account on the other forum so i cant post there but typically i'm more of a tube purist than a hybrid amp lover, although there are decent sounding hybrids out there the YAHA is a funny amp, i dont know but due to the extremely low plate voltage, you are far from linearity.. but anyway........the pin outs of an ecc88 is similar to that of 6dj8,e88cc, 6922 etc. you can find loads of datasheets here : http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/ this is the base of the tube with the pins pointing at you, as a twin triode, you have 2 grids, 2 plates (anodes), 2 cathodes (always close to ground, biased with a resistor), 2 pins for filament heating, and 1 pin for shield grounding, i.e. pin 9 input signal, will always go to the grid, with each cathode as K in the picture, and each anode as A. the cathode determines the bias of the tube, in this case you are probably not using an automatic bias with a resistor. the anode, must always be connected to a positive charge to draw electrons across. and as for the filament.. just heat it with 6.3v ac or dc will do, with DC being quieter than AC, but AC sounds a little more "lively" at the expense of slight hum.

Another amp completed over the weekend single end single stage design

its actually quite hard to get 50 constructive posts, the only way is to use the forum to "chit chat" with one liners and all that. i think it will take me 1 year to hit 50 posts. oh well. the buy/sell section's slow moving with the same items going on and on though.

does it improve cd ripping? i'm backing up a ton of good cds using EAC so if it improves the data readout that would be useful.

the sun audio only sounds good because of the tamura OPT, for OPT there is no doubt on performance of expensive permalloy trans. i had a pair of hammond transformers which i threw out after going permalloy. tamura prices have gone up significantly over the years driving sun-audio prices up. back when i was still fiddling around, a sun-audio SV2A3 was 2k flat. now current shipment from japan's btwn 3.3k to 3.8k sgd. some of the tamura main trans are at 1.3k each.. lundahl prices went up 50%.. eventually most turn to hammond cuz its still cheap and in good supply. it was a regret that i couldnt moonlight and run a small headfi/hifi business. its good money due to human subjectivity in audio preferences and experiences, different combinations will sound different, but good or not its relative to a variable yardstick. whichever the case, its always win win situation for manufacturers and retailers

looks like they pulled the DAC from xiangsheng's english site, on the chinese site there's an update in red that says "翔声DAC-01同轴光纤USB胆输出解码器兼耳放新品上市网站直销价598元。运费根据地区不同实际收取。（淘宝客户请参照淘宝店价格） 本公司保留对本机器因为改进性能需要而进行的修改参数、修改线路、改变布局等的权利，并不再另行通知。但保证高于原设计指标和性能。" which i didnt notice when i inquired about the DAC01 from them last month, looks like they are updating the circuit etc. the old OEM XS DAC is still available from XS direct as of two weeks ago, to save on shipping you can choose to mass order a few pieces if you like the sound. straight from factory, price quoted to me is 82 USD each.

nice my favourite wires. almost everything i have is running on mundorf 1% gold silver now.. including using them as speaker jumpers. which mundorf solder is that? the 3.8% silver or the 9.5% silver one? i have one reel of the 9.5% silver one which can be quite a pain to work with cuz of the melting temp at 300deg odd, you will need abt 40-50 watt soldering iron for a good joint. 20 watt irons can do the job, but not as optimum.

take care of your hearing, use less supraaural cans when listening to highly dynamic music its one of the primary reasons why i quitted headfi, i cannot cope with listening for too long to any cans without having a mild ear ache

will email them. its all subjective though, i prefer phillips 6sj7gt over the sylvania, and none of the metal shelled versions. this is despite the jan phillips having a below par construction which results in slight microphony. however this is only spoken in the context of the synergy/complimentarity between 6sj7 and my preferred 2a3 monoplate/2a3 shuguang in application.

tungsol mesh? if its 9 euro each i'll buy 50 in to keep just adding to my collection, as i'm doing quite a bit of DIY, so good tubes come in handy when i build pre-amps. i collect resistors too, i.e. shinkoh, holco, allen bradley. as for keeping them as an investment.. i dont know that never came to mind.. hmm..

its quite uncommon and its the only pair i managed to get. i saw a quad before but that was last year in china, which i didnt take cuz i didnt agree on the price. maybe ical can help you i've not run in the tubes yet to test their sonics.. and may be putting them into my collection instead..