Morgan Wu

Nice. Must be tough to terminate with Neutriks with those 3 thick wires.

Lol, iQube... I guessed so. Those apple in-ears are a beauty, if their sound matched SF5 or even TF10, Shures and UEs are in trouble... The apple in-ears will be a steal at 79USD..

Has anyone got the new Apple In-Ear that has got 2 drivers in them yet? Apple In-Ears

Well the sound of the Pico is really good. I would have gotten one if i can afford it. I dont really think the battery life of the Xin would be a problem, since AAAs are so portable. If you use a good AAA battery i believe will last longer. Xin is based in US but its started by a Chinese. Well, i am not from China, but i say future good amps should be mostly from China.

Good amp+DAC combos all have the ability to shut down the DAC section totally when the DAC is not in use. The battery savings shouldnt be substantial. If you are are lookin for small amps, check out the Xin super micro too. Its even smaller than the mustang. Pico should cost about 700sgd, sometimes Jaben carries it, but at a premium i guess. You got to loan it from someone to audit it, and cheapest way is to buy from headamp direct.

Lol, i guess also can lah. Didnt have time to find a picture for that. Working hour now leh. Its just to let wdEvA know that mini to RCA connectors are available.

U got to have a really fine soldering iron tip to be able to do that... I would mistaken those caps for dirt if i sees them on the table...

I guess u need to get something like this To change the output of the D3 to RCA for your speakers. I think you need a pair of RCA wires to complete the task too. Well we didnt suggest D2 or D3 previously because they are both out of your budget. D3 is value for money for its sound, but its big and bulky and battery charges is an hassle, (cant charge odd number 0f batteries at once, always need a extra battery to make it 6). D3's radio frequency interference is also notorious. Take it into a train full of people using handphones and you know what i mean. D2 is small, sound is good, but i prefer D3's sound. However D2 is 100 dollars cheaper and has a li-ion battery built in. People who buy T4 should be primarily attracted by its size and value. I have never heard the T4 before but my guess is D3 should sound better. It really depends on what characteristics you are looking for in a amp, see if DAC, size, sound quality or cost is your main factor of consideration. Research on all those aspects, compare them and decide yourself dude.

lol jacj6049, Can you cool down a bit when writing your posts. Like always excited, not that is a bad thing. But i guess most of us here would agree that its kinda hard to read and understand your posts. Oh, and your short forms too.

Lol, for me, i learn the most with the stuff all infront of me. I dunno, havent built an amp before. But my guess that it will be easier to just buy a kit from guys in this forum than to buy all the separate parts yourself. Lol, this thread is getting off topic already, hope the mods in this forum dont ban us.

depending on how active your ear produce that yellowish substance, somewhere between 1 to 2 months i will guess? Mine die in less than 3 weeks, sticked to silicone ever since.

Lol, google is your friend.

Well we always got to start somewhere...

Lol, palestofwhite, you got a pretty long neck ah?

Peanutbutterjam, what amp are u using to drive your er4? 1pin, congratulations that you got the UM1. My guess is that although you dont feel the difference is big now, in time to come, when you got use to the sound, try listening to your old earphones again. Lol. For UM1, try not to sit on it.. Lol, the sound tube will break.

Lol, talking about google : Google is your friend urghh, the forum censored the words. if you dunno what the page is and wanna view it, just replace the %2A with a u.

The UM1 should be well within your budget, ard 150 at Stereo. Superfi 3 should be cheaper, but i prefer the comfort of the UM1. No comments on Shure products, i have only heard the SE530 and their previous generation E4C before.

If u can wait till i am back in singapore i dont mind helping u. Interested to know more about the yuin earphones too.

Just use those plastic containers that your wife or mum uses to put food in. Those are airtight and comes in many different sizes. Can decorate yourself too if needed. The kitchen has got lots of useful tools i would say.

delancyst, i would suggest you try out something less expensive first hand, or maybe even consider a 2nd hand "high end" amp. Because from your first post, its seems that you are still unsure how a amp and dac works together. Regarding your last post, even if you do not EQ your music, the amp in the iPod would have also altered the sound. Thats unavoidable. And buying a amp is kinda trying to "avoid" the amp in the iPod in the first place. So i think its quite meaningless to use the signal from the iPod itself. The reason why people use "line out docks" and connect to the butts of the ipod, is because the signal there come directly from the dac in the ipod, and bypasses the amp, albeit not totally (this is what i assume, correct me if i am wrong too). Then the sound you hear would be coming purely from the external amp. Even with this set-up, there are still a few people who mod their ipods so that they can bypass the amp altogether.

Nope, its tested in a room with no mobile phones. Somemore it's tested using a pico. Picos dun really have shielding problem (i got a D3, its the worst, so i know, lol). There is no static if i use my ipod classic. That guy is using a ipod color. Thats the only difference.

I do not know the exact answer, but i feel it shouldnt matter. Pin 1 is simply ground, and so is pin 15. There are many ground pins in the connector, and i feel they should all achieve the same thing. Ultimate link's signature series uses only pin 1, 2, 3, 4 and 11. It doesnt even use pin 15. And it states its itouch and iphone compatible. I checked the schematics, and it says pin 15 is also ground. I tried using only pin 11 on a LOD and connect it to a iphone, no reaction. Hence my guess is Ultimate link used pin 1 as the ground instead of pin 15. Why i do not know. But if pin 15 can be substituted by pin 1, that means any ground pin can be used. I say the above is because there seems to be many combination around, and sometimes they work, sometimes they do not work. I will stick to pin 2, 3, 4 ,11 and 15 since they seem to work in most cases. I am not sure whether using pin 1 and 2 as ground together will improve the sound. But i cannot touch pin 1 because my reviewer will be using a ipod color. And pin 1 produces static on ipod color. Why it produces static, again i do not know. Haiz, and i asked this question on this forum many times already. No one seem to be responding. Surely there is someone out there who knows?

Sorry, my bad, wasnt thinking just now. You should have soldered pin 11 and pin 15 together. I have no idea why it doesnt work. Do not have a iphone 1st gen to test. My observation is that sometimes the although the line out of the pins didnt change, apple might have changed some circuits in the motherboard. For example, if you use pin 1 as ground, it will work perfectly fine for ipod 5G and after, for ipod color, there would be static, and the backgound would not be perfectly black. No idea why is that so too.

which pins did you solder the leads to?

What are the traits in a mp3 do u consider?