squalle

for wima poly cap look here : http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/par...KU=149846&N=401 that cap is exactly as shown on 1st page by jason

linksix: never put any tantalum or ceramic on the signal path they will distort ur signal very badly see here for the graphs: http://members.aol.com/sbench102/caps.html best is of course get the paper+oil caps for C3-C5, I guess you can use any caps that have low ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance, see here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equivalent_series_resistance). those caps (C3-C7) are there to smoothen the power supply into the op-amps. C1 and C2 are there to block DC offset from your source (see here http://tangentsoft.net/audio/input-cap.html). for the parts, errmm which parts that you're having trouble with?

TLE2426 is just a rail splitter, which means that if you've got it, then it replaces the two resistors R9 and R10 LM6171's function is to lower the impedance of the return line, or the ground channel when you've just built ur cmoy2 up, you can afford not to put the ground channel op-amp. just jumper pin 2 to pin 3. as what jason put in the 1st few posts. I hope these help you klernie Kube: I'll get the alcohol. got more use for it the flux cleaner is simply too expensive for just a single function LOL

thanks heady for the kodak solution, how much did u buy? hahaha if u can still remember.. 20 years ago LOL btw, no1 trying the AD8397?

abt the correct config, you guys ought to download the data sheet/spec sheet of each components, with exceptions of normal resistors, caps etc, which are simple in nature. btw heady, where to get alcohol? been planning to get. is it possible to get those 99% type? I need it to clean my camera stuffs too

it might be due to the op-amps being on/off or vice versa or might be the DC offset causing it have u measured for DC offset at the output?

oh ic may I ask if I can try your tube amp? ur avatar shows a tube I'm very curious to know how it sounds.

haha if u wanna more challenge then dun get a printed board or even better modify a designed circuit that's what DIY is all about rite not plug and solder only

maybe it's a better idea to start with a simpler sijosae design? that way you know what to do already for the millet design. wat do u think?

I think I'd dare to say me and a friend wanna try making one errr but as for PCB, now I dont think it's that hard to wire ur own right huang yong?

second the camomile. love every songs in that album!

LOL that's called killing an ant with elephant rifle with that kinda s ize, I gotta hunch telling me that somehow it'll give some problems too

1bit: np yup, regarding any degradation due to the pot in signal path. errmm I cant hear any noise or watever induced by the pot. unless ur pot is mechanically broken. lol. I meant to say that the whole assembly is shaky or something, which in that case, you should just replace it with a new one.

1bit: bipolars have higher input offset current. this will cause higher DC offset voltage at input of the op-amp, as opposed to the FET op amp. bipolars have something that's 300nA to 3uA. whereas the FETs have like 10nA. read here: http://tangentsoft.net/audio/hs-opamp.html for more details. too lazy to re-type kross: agree with 1bit. cheaper ones (like what I'm using ) cause slight noise when u turn, but luckily most of the times not. tracking is poor tho' especially at the two extremes. and I've measured some imbalance of resistance between the 2 channels.

I've got the ipod one, but build quality quite bad exchanged the pair I've got twice. the same prob always occur, one side dead so now I'm on UM2. it rocks! back to topic, try panasonic one. not that expensive anyway.

errm ok just tell me when u wanna try errr I actually not really offering for a sale wanna let u try first before u choose which amp, but now that you've got pa2v2. just make comparison lo

btw till when?

pa2v2 can be DIYed easily actually the circuit is just taken off the manufacturer specs sheet it's built around a solid-state audio amp, 200mW LM4881 btw, I dont think it costs SGD70. closer to 100 when u got it here. IIRC, shd be USD 60-70, then shipping also not to forget nowadays USD 1 stands at around SGD 1.7 see here : http://www.electric-avenues.com/amplifiers.html see how, I might have CMOY2, done up, as spare. oh but then again, I'd rather you try first. pm me abt this matter, T__T||| (note: ur nick very hard to type )

just rolled to another op-amp put in the AD8397 impression on me: nice, clear highs. the bass is tight u guys shd try too but be careful of it for the fact that it's bipolar oh btw, the ground channel is still on MAX4166 as I havent been able to get its replacement so far (need one that can run on lower voltages, yet can sink lotsa current, sounds like impossible tho' )

ermmm you can try to DIY Cmoy2. details are in the DIY section

yup see how much ur budget is then can work on from there cmoy is simple amp but I can suggest PA2v2 that's quite famous out there. and yes, you can DIY that easily

yes if there's a line-out on ur PCDP, but if there none, and putting the volume to 0 out of the headphone out, well it's impossible to get audible result out of any amp the SNR would be way too low for the amp to amplify anything useful out of the signal of ur PCDP. fyi, the line out of ipods is of way higher volume than the headphone out itself. volume is not the only thing when we're discussing abt amps I think u've mixed up volume and sound quality

SR-60 brand new costs only S$120, which is way below ur budget upper limit. So why the need of the lobang?

for me it's enuff. which headphones are u using? on my hd497, I'd need almost half. when using apple in-ear I'd need very little. maybe ard 15% vol pot. I'm using ipod as source, taken from its line out for ur pcdp, I think ur volume of your headphone out PCDP is the one that limit it. try put the volume to around 75% and see what happens next.

I'm using 2 too then I think you should just increase the resistor values