wwenze

From an engineering perspective, there are valid explanations to powercords and there are appliances that require them to be of good quality. It's just that "any engineer" out there is usually under-informed. Read the second last post in the thread. There are skeptics that know what they're doing. Then there are skeptics that don't. The person who did the ohmmeter test obviously didn't know the mechanism of how conductive paste works. But it's a good laugh nonetheless. BTW I found that there are conductive grease containing platinium on the internet. Hmm...

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/118009.aspx

Asia

Hay, scientifically, it makes sense. So what's wrong? It's not just about it being silver, but it being a grease. (So read: Effect will not last if you keep pluggin it in and out, but will last forever if you apply plug in and leave it there) The surface area of contact is usually way smaller than what people think hence the measurable impedance and voltage drop of connectors. Contact grease has always been used to reduce the resistance at the connectors for high-voltage and high-current applications. Just like how thermal grease helps to improve heat transfer between the CPU and the HSF. Instead of buying exorbitant plugs this seems like a good and worthy investment. Now the question is, what is the cheap industrial real-life alternative to all these high-price audio-branded consumables. A trip to the internet and SLT is in order. Anyway the name says it all: SilClear. Must be a silicone-based grease. Oh and add: I myself am a non-believer where connectors are concerned, only believing in the bad effects of improper termination and impedance matching, otherwise making no difference as long as certain standards are met. But, this will help prevent oxidation, which definitely helps aesthetically, which in turn helps improve what we think about the performance of our gear. And, the real-life versions are cheap, so nothing to lose. Add2: Sht, if this had crossed my mind earlier I would've taken some of the mil-grade (or "mil-grade" actually) contact grease from the workshop. For use in 200A applications.

power (NB: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ICEpower)

cardiac

Spray

Cat

little

poison

grass

Defender

alessandro

sniper

man

egg

A headphone amp is a preamp, or vice-versa. Sound-wise, comparing the cheapest versions of RA1 and mini3 I know of, the mini3 undoubtly wins. But if choosing between the two for home use, I'd take whichever draws more power, is comfortable with a voltage higher than 9V, and bigger and more moddable. That would usually mean RA1. ^^

I'm too lazy to draw or find the schematics, but I believe LC3 should have one. In series mode, when the potentiometer (volume knob) is set to low, volume is high. Im shunt mode, when the potentiometer is set to low, volume is low. I dunno how this works on the LC3 though, seeing as how people say that in shunt mode the volume control doesn't affect. Maybe the idea of shunting is not with the potentiometer, but with another resistor thus bypassing the volume knob entirely. Actually even if change also dun change much lar...

Shunt means it lets the current flow through another path instead of series. The good part for shunt is that the signal won't directly pass through the potentiometer, which is known to spoil the sound and making people buy expensive ALPs pot.

http://www.headb.com/support/index.html

.),

That's quite a load of Elnas... and are those Wima black caps?

A good source encoded to even 128 or 96kbps on a good system wun go pop. No mentioned problem wif my MS-1 or speakers. But is this song supposed to sound so mushy and full of artifects?

TS, how about you burn your collection into black vinyl-wannabe CDRs and get a CDP in the hope that you'll get better SQ ...j/k. After reading all those links in previous threads you should have some idea of how DAC and transport work and how they alter the sound. Just remember... CDPs have SPDIF out for a reason. You're going to buy the product of that reason. Nothing much can go wrong.

I Audigy