nakedtoes 0 Report post Posted September 19, 2006 (edited) Just back from LHS... i got the belden 89259 with neurik profi plug.. saw the "professor" making another RCA to stereo mini.. using same cable... izzt someone here?? Edited September 19, 2006 by nakedtoes Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roasty 0 Report post Posted September 19, 2006 would the belden 89259 with the neutrik pro-fi plugs sound better than QED Qunex 1 interconnects? noob here. will be using it to connect my azur 640c v2 to my headphone amp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nakedtoes 0 Report post Posted September 19, 2006 I am now listening to the belden 89259 with neutrik profi to canare F12 stereo mini.. it sound quite harsh and bright out of my 640C... but after abt 3 hrds of burn in everything started to tame down.... trying other genres of music to accertain any improvements over the Qunex silver spiral Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ahdui 0 Report post Posted September 19, 2006 the Prof is Patrick.. i duno whether he is a member here. he told mi the belden 89259 will be harsh for like 1week of usage and den it will tame down. i got mine with canare RCAPs lol no money for neutrik Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nakedtoes 0 Report post Posted September 19, 2006 the Prof is Patrick.. i duno whether he is a member here. he told mi the belden 89259 will be harsh for like 1week of usage and den it will tame down. i got mine with canare RCAPs lol no money for neutrik how much for them?? theres is this close to bald guy also very friendly..... it started to tamed down alot liaoz.... or is it my amp that is burning in Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ahdui 0 Report post Posted September 19, 2006 $46 for them. 2 x 1m belden 89259 4x canare RCAPs probably because you use your amp more oftenly? thats y its burnt in faster. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nu_Omega 0 Report post Posted September 20, 2006 (edited) Not sure if this is gonna make people have 2nd thoughts about "burning in" cables. http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=198552 kinda interesting. Cheers Edited September 20, 2006 by Nu_Omega Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stereo_Electronics 0 Report post Posted September 20, 2006 Don't think it makes any difference whatsoever, like tube vs solid state, solid core cables vs multi strands, running in for 100hrs vs no run in..... these are topics that will go on and on like a decade ago when 4 customers start quarrelling in my showroom about this very topic. Do whatever works for you and be happy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roasty 0 Report post Posted September 21, 2006 i've always had the predicament when buying new interconnects, that whenever i get a new cable, for burn in i would take out my old cable and substitute the new one into my audio rig. leaving me with the thought that i would be listening to 'un-burned in' cables for a week or two.. i wonder why i never thought of this before.. instead of putting the new cables into my audio rig, i plug the new cables into my TV instead, since its pretty much the most used electronic equipment in the house. that way i can still listen to my old cables whilst the new ones are burning in. lol took me so long to think of this.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mackie 0 Report post Posted September 21, 2006 (edited) Simply put, to burn-in or run-in or cook a cable is actually the equivalent of utilizing the cable. Once you have this understanding, the fact that you need not run in any cable through a sound system will dawn upon you. For instance, I would connect a DIY power cord to my office pc as it's never switched off. Alternatively, you could also use it with any home appliances eg, electric kettle. In addition, burning in any cable/system simply helps it to reach its optimal performance level sooner. A used cans/cable/equipment etc will not sound any better, no matter how extensive you try to burn them in again. Edited September 21, 2006 by Mackie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dw1narso 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2006 Hi guys, I want to share some experience that I know about DIYing interconnect... I once had a "business" of selling IC with Belden 89259 in Indonesia... (not run for long time enough... only managed to sell about 20 pairs... and have no time to follow on...) 89259 is good cable as it is... the key to make it sounds (if it really have the sounds :-) good is the good RCA plug... but there is something more important to make it sound good with whatever RCA plug that you use... read on... I once try it with many variations: from cheap tiffany style, cheap thick style, Canare (original) tiffany style, Eichmann copper bullet plug, and Neutrik Profi... From all above plugs... I can only say that it never sound good enough with tifffany style plugs, including Canare... whatever way... including soldering the braided shield wire as close as possible to the ground part of the plug... It also sound not good enough when I use a cheap thick plug, when I solder them... Later I found that soldering the braided wire like the shield wires on the 89259 is not easy... it acts like soldering wick... and this is added with the fact that thick plug need very hot solder to get the thick metal get enough temperature to melt the solder wire... that's why I never been able to make a perfect joint by soldering the braided wire to the thick plug... thus it cannot sound good... the 89259 start to sound good with the thick plug when I experiment like this... the central conductor is still soldered... but the braided wire is... I cover it with copper tube and pressed it... then I screw the tubed wire with the screw of the thick ground part of the plug... I make it such that only the screw that connect to the pressed copper tube (so the copper tube never directly touch the ground part of the plug)...It works well... This is the main combination which sell most during my business day... It beats my own QED Qunex 2 and based on my customer feedback, it beats Nordost low end interconnect too... I can understand now why WBT always suggest to use crimped copper tube to terminate cable to the gound part of WBT plug Then I use Eichmann bullet plug... the 89259 sound more focus and balanced with this plug... this has been long become my own interconnect in my system... before permanently replaced by Eichmann Express 6 cable later on... (no contest at all... Express 6 is few league better) Then since bullet plug has reliability problem... (it is 95% plastic) I try with Neutrik Profi... To my ears it sounds quite similar to bullet plug for the 89259... 89259 with bullet plug has been tested by my friend and comparable head to head to Kimber PBJ. PBJ is meatier but 89259-bullet sounds more focus... both has very close character... 89259 with bullet also head-to-head to Nordost Black Knight, but with different character... 89259 more balanced and relaxed and BK has better bottom and analytical... So as good as it is... standard 89259 (I never modify the cable; like twisting it or others) is respectable cable... I think I already push it to the maximum performance when I use Eichmann bullet and Neutrik profi... the result is repeatable... since then I also sold some IC with bullet and profi, the sounds character is stable... Another so..., termination is one other key to make 89259 (or any cable... or any electronic part joint) "sounds" good... both bullet and profi are easy to solder... thus produce perfect joint with the cable... Cheers, --- David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stereo_Electronics 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2006 I think he meant, 1. put a copper tube thru the cable until the braid. 2. crimp it? 3. Screw the connector ( at the back part of the connector) onto the crimped part. 4. Bingo. I think so..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dw1narso 0 Report post Posted September 23, 2006 Yes... Aron got it right... that's how WBT always suggest for terminating cable to their plug... my version is abit different... I don't cover the whole cable unto the braid using big copper tube... instead I use small size copper tube... (usually used on aircon or refrigerator to carry refrigerant fluid between radiator and the blower) to cover only the braid/mesh wire, which previously has been unbraided and then twisted tightly... crimpt it tightly... so that it seems the the tube and the wire becoming unite (copper is soft right... it also provide airtight-ness to the previously exposed wire) and then screw the connector to the crimped part... with the small copper tube it is possible to screw only to the crimped part without the crimped part touching other ground part... Do you know where this idea comming from? Bullet plug... I try to reduce the connecting point between the wire and the metal part of the plug... just like bullet plug... on bullet plugh you solder it right on the two small part of the plug... so that the electron will flew only to the concentrated joint... theoretically this should reduce time smearing... of course this only valid for plug with screw on the ground body... like WBT and some other cheap plug... (I think DAIYO is quite good... if you can find the one that is non magnetic) Regards, --- David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
