jtfoo

tropic, Do you have the Farnell Stock number of your mini blue. I see if I can get the datasheet from the CD catalgue. With the datasheet, we can trace the pins.

You guys could request from Farnell a CD catalogue. The CD catalgue is much easier to browse, somemore with datasheet link.

Chris, Have you settled on which amp you want to diy? Remember during the NoiSing you were considering the AKSA and the TDA7294.. Now there is TDA7293, can use higher voltage trannies. JT Foo, aka fremen @echoloft.

AKSA is a power amp and not a integrated, but should be no problem to add a passive pre since it's a diy amp. AKSA sounds very good to me at least. But it would not be in your AUD$150-$200 budget.

what do they look like? i'm looking for caps that hav both good quality & looks Miss universe of capcitors all are welcome to to add their pics Oscon look very nice with it light purple color.. Definitely a contender.

Howabout not having a 5uF cap in the diagram altogether? Wouldn't it bring about more details? The cap seems insignificant to me except to colour to sound. But hey, what do i know!? I'm with you.. No cap is best. But the user has to make doubly sure there's no DC offset at his source.

Law faking shouldn't cause distortion at all. Might be something else.

I've used 2.2K for 10K pots and the incremental is alright.. I took my reference from Rod Elliot's article when I was doing my project. http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm#chg-law But 15% I guess would still be alright..

Agree here with Firefox, for audio, you gotta use a log pot. It's the way our ear detect loudness, that a log pot would give reasonable increment with every turn. But $50 for the pot for your project, imho, is overkill. Try law faking your existing pot(i.e parallel a resistor from wiper to ground). Try a 2.2K resistor for a 10K pot or 22K for 100K pot. Though not perfect log imcremental, but good enough for me.

Try this http://nicholas.summerslam.info/ Searching for your image might be a little of a hassle, but it's free.

On the contrary, I don't think it's case of too much current. The buffer output current when as it's needed, and the max 2001cn will go is 100ma. You can try stacking the 2001cn. two buffer sharing the load will perform better.

Are you building a meta?

Barang Barang prices abit on the high side for a case. Alternatively, look for tea chest or cigar boxes where diyers on a budget tend to turn to.

Read the datasheet. Reason why they go for buffer becoz they can push higher current than opamps.. So amps like MEta and PPA can drive almost any headphone.

Wooden enclosure usually looks very nice.. Maybe it's becoz wood makes hifi looks like a furniture piece.

The Meier crossfeed you've made has a improve bass version at headwize.. http://headwize2.powerpill.org/projects/sh...=meier2_prj.htm Or you can try Chu Moy's modified Linkwitz's crossfeed. http://headwize2.powerpill.org/projects/sh...e=cmoy1_prj.htm With resistors along the signal path, bound to have attenuation.. Got to live with it. For me, I decided not to live with it.

I'd never compare the inverted ones. But from what I've read in the fourums, many do prefer the inverted version. Even Thorsten's version is a inverted one.

Sorry, it's not a headamp. I thought at first you wanted to commision firefox to do a full fledge amp. Just fyi, gain clone started out with diyers attempt to clone the Gain Card, after someone opened up and found that the amp is so simple to built with so few components and using a IC chip amplifier. Along the way, there are many versions and others experimenting on different amp chips. Now majority of the gain clone are not really clone anymore. They are just chip amp. http://www.euronet.nl/~mgw/diy/amps/uk_geenkloon_1.html http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=40 BTW, they look alot like the big brother of a CMOY...

Why not With more than 18800uF caps, it'll be more than enough for a better spec gain clone. Some diyers only used 2000uF for them 35 watters.

470nF = 0.47uF 470pF=0.47nF

18800uF for the headamp, that's way overkill . My AKSA 55watter power amp driving a pair of 3 way speaker has the same 18800uF for power supply, while yours only driving heaphone.

Some short terms uses in schematics & DIY 2K2 =2200ohms 24R9=24.9ohms

Rail-to-rail, is basically the supply voltage from V+ to V-.. Many Opamps will still operate as long as the rail to rail voltage is maintained within the spec stated in the datasheet. So at times, it may not be neccessary to have equal V+ and V-, but as long at the voltage across V+ and V- is within spec the opamp will still function. e.g. in your thread 'the cheaper cmoy', the supplied voltage to the kitset opamp is a +ve DC supply, not a +ve and -ve. But as long as the the measure voltage across Pin 8 and Pin 4(rail to rail) is within spec, it'll work.. But for audio application, having equal +ve and -ve supply is desirable.

Rameish, Just curious since you didn't mention themodel. Rubycon are generally used in audio, but I'm just not familiar which models are they. I've searched Rubycon catalog and coudn't find any caps they labelled as audio grade, and my only guess are probably those labelled as ultra low impedance that diyers used. I know Blackgates are made by them but strangely they are not in the catalog either.

What are the models for the Rubycon 'blue'?