Firefox

As Tangent has said.

Go and audtition the various players if you can before buying. Don't buy on recommendations, trust what you hear because different people have different sonic preferences. You can probably pick up a used Marantz CD-63 or CD6000 (used since you'll be able to audition before buying). I hope you're using the XP-7 with a PSU and not batteries. It should perform even better with the higher voltage from a dedicated PSU.

Well.. 99/100 is still a fraction.. LOL..

LOL.. That's big.. Are you sure it's not a rectangular metal sheet punch?

If you can make me ORD/ ROD within the week, I can build you one for free.. Sheesh... Hate this stupid camp...

Actually, I suggest this because it's more appropriate. The human body does generate some electricity and might affect the readings. The most foolproof method is to open the equipment (SWITCH OFF AND DISCHARGE 1ST!!) and trace the live/ neutral wire using a multimeter.

Guns N Roses - Greatest Hits Evanescence - Fallen

I'm not surprised given the limited production of the Nuvista tubes.

Are those Welvyn RC55C/Y resistors? Nice work on the board though you stripped some pads (intentional?). I'd have placed Low Impedance caps if I were you though. Alternatively, the only boutique caps I'd place for the reservoir are Cerafines.

I will quote you on that the next time you say, "it's only about the sound quality" or something to that effect! "If it looks better, it must sound better!" - av98m LOL.. I think my amp sounds clearer now cuz of the new knob.. Hrmm.. Anyone wants to buy the C37 wooden knob? hehehe..

I told you Ram' lighting was screwed up.. Tungsten White Balance couldn't even compensate for it.

My BBamp Rev 3 on top of the re-cased Rev 2 which is the star of this issue of MAD MOD WORLD!: The 2 knobs (Naz: Yes, the notched knobs) are Suzurando Knobs and coincidentally are the last 2 pieces ever sold in Singapore. The silver matt was the last piece from Well Audio Labs and the pale gold also the last display piece from Larry Hi-fi. They cost $15 each. The knob on the left is for toggling the crossfeed and the other is for volume control. 4 output jacks on the front; 2 XLR's for av98m's re-wired DT-880's. The 2 Neutrik Locking Jacks are with the gold-plated contacts (list price: $12.75). 0 ohm on the left and 120 ohm output on the right. There are 2 inputs selectable via an Augat switch. The switch has silver-plated contacts and gold-plated lugs. Available online from Welborne Labs for US$14.00 a piece. The amp is very tightly packed on the inside. The crossfeed board had to go under the PSU board. This is very sad since the crossfeed caps look wicked through the ventilation slots. The Hovland Musicaps are DC blocking caps. The bridge rectifiers are built using HEXFRED's coupled with Evox MMK caps. The transformer is a Nuvotem Talema encapsulated model.

It's both actually. An aesthetics and features upgrade that turns the amp into a beast. I had a hard time lugging this around on public transport largely because it weighs some 7.5Kg to 10Kg.

Enjoy.. hehe.. Crossfeed components; Rel & Multicap Polystyrol Film and Foil caps and Riken Ohm resistors: The Rel-cap cost $16.50 whilst the Multicaps are $26 a pop. Riken Ohm resistors can be had for $1.50/ pc. Very reasonable prices. Initially considered the Rel-cap Exotica Teflons at $165/ pc just to go a little insane. =) Crossfeed completed: The same Hovland Musicaps and Noble pot: The Hovlands at ~$26 a pop bring the film caps costs for this amp above $100. But all well worth the sonic transparency. The Noble used to be available locally from Well Audio Labs at $50. They're no longer stocked by any local shops. Output jacks wired with 99.99% pure teflon insulated silver wire: The PSU has received an upgrade from 3,300uF general purpose caps to 4,700uF Ultra Low ESR caps:

I think you can try RSH for the Canterbury stuff. Shouldn't be cheap.. Probably more than $100+ for the bag, if they still have that model.. It's almost 1.8m long though.. Huge......

There's this nice Canterbury bag you can get. In sec. sch., the hockey team used that to hold their sticks. Can easily fit a full-grown adult in there. =)

Computer modders have been using this for a very long time too. The price is actually lower at hardware stores. That particular shop in SLS (UF tech.) overprices many of their products. But come on... That looks so wimpish compared to a rotary tool! LOL.. Better to get both, then cut with the nibbler while posing for photos with a Dremel/ RTX/ Minicraft..

Actually, it's easy to do signal reclocking on the DAC end to eliminate jitter problems. =) But it's more expensive for the manufacturers so they'd rather just leave it out. After all, they can always milk more money out of the consumers by releasing a seperate clocking unit.

Actually, you place the probe onto any object that's earthed. Or the earth pin in the mains socket. Then touch the player's case/ ground point with the other probe.

By the way, do check out the Consonance 1.1 CDP in the Classifieds. It's a very solidly built player and well worth the asking price.

Do note you'll have to factor in the costs of interconnects as well. A good starter pair will be diy'ed Canare L-4E6S. With good workmanship, they have great value for money. The SR-325's are extremely bright though. As such, you may want to consider the Mogami 2534 interconnects which are a little more warm to counter that. When you get anyone to build you the amp, do request for decent components. At least metal film resistors, Alps Blue pot. and headphone jack with gold plated contacts. I'd recommend using Vishay Dale/ Holco resistors and Noble pot.

*ahem*

You should try using a hole puncher for belts instead. It won't risk bending the tin and can punch holes of various sizes.

Try the Sennheiser HD-200 for that price.

Just place some books between the 2 ear-cups of the HD600. That will stretch the headband a little. The HD-600's are more comfortable for people with chubbier heads. At least that's what I notice. Alternatively, you can use a computer casing instead to stretch the headband a little. I believe what you meant by a dryer sound is that the sound is less mushy and more clinical/ sterile. In that case, you can try the HD-590 if you wish to stick with Sennheiser. If your headamp is fairly dynamic and neutral, you'll get a more impactful bass response which isn't muddy sounding.