squalle

2nd SOHA is declared as done, properly running now listening thru it oh btw, I managed to squeeze the space taken down to 3" * 4" a lot more tidy this time but for my own unit, I think I'll just leave it as is oh yea, how to make the stupid volume pot immune to interference? I've shieleded or twisted all signal wires, but I think that pot was the culprit that caught the interference when I put a fluorescent desk lamp very near but all in all, it's more immune to interference compared to my 1st unit

sg.farnell.com

have u seen this layout? http://headwize.com/ubb/showpost.php?fnum=...=47069&fpage=20

I dont have but I dont think it's going to be expensive rite? you really wanna wait till I got around to make the PCB?

kross: u forget 1 thing the bigger diameter drill, you cant make it flat ended (counterbore we call it) if u use the drill bit that is to make hole but the milling bit is flat, so that's why I asked for milling machine kippei: I dont like the board with strips if you're not careful when u assemble everything then forget to cut some strips, you might kill some parts and cutting the stupid strip aint fun either then for PCB, maybe later on I draw up something. see if I can do that never draw up a PCB before

this one: http://headwize.com/ubb/showpost.php?fnum=...=46715&fpage=16 the pattern already drawn up

kippei: I was thinking to DIY the PCB wanna try? I certainly can get to access laser printer

it helps preventing unwanted short and yea, that's the way it can be done.

haha eh kross, can you please measure the dimensions? before I go to IMM myself or do they sell many different sizes? one comment, why dun you try to put the socket a lilttle deep, instead of putting it from top sitting that way hmm looks very thick gotta think of a way to make some places thinner to around 3mm who got a milling machine in this forum?

errr K701 is not that fast to get either so either new beyer flagship or the 701 would cause to wait at least 1month 701 is even worse, as it's of no news at all for 701 he couldnt even promise me any rough guess on when he can get

just checked with AA for the new beyers he told me that they're expecting it to come in feb so you've gotta hold on for another month , if you want to try the new models

thin bass as it's like 100 times smaller, then let's calculate fc = 1/(2pi*RC) fc = cut off freq pi = 3.14 R= depend on wat's the input resistance u put, if you follow as prescribed, it would be 10k ohm. C = 0.01uF (u replaces the symbol of mu) so the result would be 1592Hz and that cut off doesnt mean it goes straight, but it's already at -3dB so yah, ur bass will suffer a lot for bass boost you can add on, but not on that board, rather tight spacing. treble boost never heard ppl wanting that, but yeah, can be done too for adjustable gain, I suggest you small trimpot, then you can fit it there easily. dont get those large ones (with the handle bar or something, but the ones that you've gotta use a jeweller's screwdrive to turn) I suggest you build the amp first before going to EQ-ing the sound and, for the adjustable gain, maybe you can just plug in straight away rather than desoldering the resistors later on

I like single pads better as it will be more flexible in making the layout as you like it the 2 strips I have are only at the two sides, then I utilized one of them as my ground so you can start already ? or wanna come here and do? I need to make another one for a friend

mini jack --> RCAs

wat you would care for is the output they prescribed it as 15-0-15 200mA which means, 0.2 * 30 = 6VA aka 6 watt but this is overrated. maybe the usage is closer to 4-5W. but 6W was chosen for safer and more headroom I'd guess input wattage will be higher than that, as there's no 100% efficient trafo ADD: the input current will be lower than 200mA though, as it is coming from higher voltage

ur trafo is too small, if compared to the prescribed one but hmm try la the most the trafo burn fuse is ok i'm using 250mA fuse, glass too

hmm $2 is worth a try where did u get it from? and dimensions please.

oh, you can still order but gotta wait or something? coz there was a time, when I need to order things that are related to my work, then they called me back saying that they're OOS,and wont bring in anymore. so yeah, I'm worried abt that and true, a lot of things searched and came out OOS.

what about case? The last time I chked the link (farnell) given by you, that particular case is OOS

a few things here: 1. rechargables, especially Ni based batteries are not rated at 1.5v. they're 1.2v and will spend most of their operating time in the vicinity of that voltage level 2. of course it will last a lot longer. 9v rechargables are most probably like 170mAh, whereas AAs highest at the moment are 2500mAh rated. so using AAs can last more than 10 times longer well, making regulated power supply is not a big feat. rather simple. dont even need to get watever TREAD board. p-t-p soldering would do very nice result and it only consists of very little components

abt how to chk transistors (BJTs): http://www.anatekcorp.com/qdmmvom.htm chking MOSFETs : http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/mostest.htm tube wont spoil easily, concur that too especially when u only put 24 volts across it it's meant to operate into the hundreds of volts

use AA batteries AA batteries are of a lot higher capacity (a few hundreds mAh Vs 2500 mAh) but you've got to put a lot of AAs in there, so if you dont mind the weight... hehe alternatively AAA batts, which I'm doing or... change the op-amp to something that guzzles less and requires lower voltage. for me, CMOY2 is now relegated to serve as office + portable use (aka on-the-go) amp since errm a few months ago I guess soon it's going to be relegated even further, becomes on-the-go only amp EDIT: wat kind of battery that is at 3v? I cant recall any, Lithium is 4.2v and hard to charge it. requires special charger due to its rather complicated charging algo

sample pic of a stepped attenuator:

http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/mostest.htm besides testing BJT, MOSFET is in the article above kippei: i'm not sure either. maybe due to the capacitor construction, one of the 2 leads is connected to the sleeve, hence the mains voltage gotta try it later on when I've got around to do it

I think I've mentioned stepped attenuator that is properly done (matched and connected properly) will have superior balance between L and R channels next, if it's made out of very tight tolerance resistors, then you can expect a far better stability