Mackie

Please tell me where U get this quote so I can order 10 pieces. Or is it "guestimation"? Info on 6N11 http://www.diyhifisupply.com/diyhs_tj-factory-trip.htm

Price quoted is for the plugs alone. Cable should cost no more than $3/m so u do the maths. I terminated the cables myself, so no workmanship cost involved.

There are only 2 editions of DT990 throughout its history. The older version looks like DT990 pro but instead of black, its steel frame is silver (raw). The latest version (picture shown above) sounds and looks completely different. Old DT990 (since inception)

I think you are bemused as tone controls is part of the pre-amp stage and hence, not a barometer if an integrated amp can be "disintegrated". Look for pre-in/pre-out jacks with a "U-shaped" connector at the back panel as this confirms the two stages can be split and thus, facilitate connection to other pre-amp or power amp.

I reckon you just answered your own question. If sound quality were to be a secondary concern, buy the better looking one then.

There are 2 cables you guys might wanna try. They are Canare L2T2S and L4E5S, both terminated with Canare F12 and Neutrik "L" 1/8" stereo phono plugs. These plugs are available at LHS for a total of $9.50 approx. (not inclusive of cable) I reckon L2T2S suits closed cans better owing to its laidback and smoother presentation, which reduces fatique and also gives better soundstaging depth and therefore, a more open sound. However, partnering this cable with open cans used on the go, will result in loss of subtle sonic details to ambient noise. L4E5S gives a more forward presentation which should invoke greater emotion and offers fuller body to sound. Like most Canare cables, this cable does not sound warm but neither is it bright. I've used this with Grado on the move and knowing how much Grado leaks sound, I still find the cable capable of reproducing subtle details. However, I perceive using this cable with closed cans may cause fatique to set in sooner albeit exciting during initial period. Last but not least, the higher priced Canare and Neutrik plugs are worth the money in gold as they fit snuggly in the socket whilst cheaper plugs tend to "swim" after a while, causing static to be heard when person is in motion. The pot of PA2V2 is its Archilles Heel. Although the imbalance of right and left channels is less/not evident when used with high impedance cans, it aint so with low impedance ones. The trick is to pull the knob slightly outward and twist it to the desired setting. The initial imbalance will be negated.

If DT990 (2006 edition) is indeed that cheap, you can be assured I will be selling some cans to fund this purchase! Elmo: If you have the time, please investigate and report back.

Your fears are unfounded. Consider signal-to-noise ratio. Unless the amp falters in this respect ie, poor (low) S/N ratio, an increase in volume will amplify the signal to such magnitude that the inherent noise within is less obvious. Not forgetting, higher impedance drivers (for cans) have greater slew factor which translates to greater control of air movement.

I just checked the specs sheet of your amp PM7200. It's doesn't allow disintegration of its pre-power stage. In fact, what is offered is a processor-in/out and not a pre-in/out, which means you can connect an outboard processor like a DD/DTS decoder or equalizer to this amp. No matter what, the amp's pre-amp stage is pertetually engaged in operation. The basics remain the same, don't connect a pre-amp to an integrated amp unless it has pre-in/out facilities which essentually disintegrate its inherent pre/power amp stages. In your case, you are introducing an unnecessary link to the line source of your amp via the 708A pre-amp.

Unless you can control the amount of humidity in the box, an excessively dry box will cause rubber and foam parts to disintegrate. Same principle applies for camera dry box. Conversely, too much humidity will cause fungus growth.

Not totally true cmk. For example with an Audiovalve RKV MKII, I have to turn up the volume when driving a Grado as opposed to a Beyer or Senn. But your statement is generally true for a solid state amp.

First and foremost, THX is not an enhancement but a certification (George Lucas and his company) that reaffirms optimal sound and picture quality. Next, all DTS mastering does not carry THX certification which has a sole business relationship with Dolby Labs (DD).

Not too worry, the lids of these boxes do not provide a good seal at all. In fact there're gaps good enough to keep the dust away and ventilate the item within.

Very sexy....the woman in red........is dancing with me.....cheek to cheek......

This sorta marketing is as old as multi-level-marketing, and still prevalent these days. It's not that the resort aint good but they are usually faraway, eg Australia, and there are many "hidden" clauses which limit your usage even if you can afford to fly often.

Daiso at IMM (opp Jurong East mrt) sells lots of neat looking plastic boxes with various sizes. Add in some bubble wrap as cushion and walla, cheap and serves the purpose.

Rule of thumb, always connect an outboard pre-amp to the [pre-in/amp-in] sockets of an integrated amp as this will bypass its pre-amp section.

Fongaly, pm Wilson and perhaps make an appt with him. Since he has decided to join the forum, I'm sure he is ready to face all our bugging which will be fast and furious? hahaha

Two words to all these.....Time shares. They are gonna try and sell time shares of some resorts in a faraway land, where you can enjoy a number of free stay per year ..yada, yada, yada......

A big resounding no!

The generic ones will do just fine. Otherwise U can always source for better ones at LHS?

hahaha...lets cut her a deal, if you cant get your release outlet in hifi stores, she aint gonna get new shoes......lets see who can hold out longer?

As Gahman has pointed out numerous times, speak to Wilson of Jarben on your wants and doubts. He is already available in this forum and there's no better way to have all your queries answered than this.

As long as you are looking for Chinese headamps, Ma6Jia is the man. Period!

Check with ma6jia, he was the one who brought the amp to the recent forum meet at Anything Audio. It should cost in the S$500 region. If your are looking for a cheaper and yet good alternative, consider XiangSheng 708A/B which costs below S$300. Once again, Ma6Jia is the person to talk to. Pm him.