Mackie

Aron is right, both customer and retailer wanna hear "encouraging" words, be them true or false, just for the sake of building a good relationship from the onset. Look for Michel at Kingsley as my friends and I have enjoyed pretty friendly service from him, albeit ending up with no sales.

I wonder if this will work for you. Read "Modification ideas" in the following link: http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:FV4-70G...us&ct=clnk&cd=2 I prefer a variable approach as too low an output from the mic will require higher gain of mic amp to drive it to a certain spl, which in turn, results in greater hiss.

I'm curious, how does 40Hz sound like and what musical instrument were you listening to? I have mostly felt vibration and perhaps a low rumble or drone when a 40Hz signal was fed to a subwoofer but have not had the experience in hearing it through cans though. Hmmm....maybe I should experiment by feeding the same signal to my cans system.

Definitions Slew rate: is a measure of an amplifier's ability to follow its input signal. The term is used to define the maximum rate of change of an amplifier's output voltage with respect to its input voltage. The unit of measure is volts per microsecond. To put it in more technical terms, Slew Rate is nothing more than a term used to describe how quickly the potential on a circuit node must change with respect to time. As far as slew rate having an effect on perceived sound, the real issue is slew rate limiting, which relates to an amplifier's ability to pass complex waveforms without clipping them, resulting in an open musical sound. Slew rate is measured by feeding an input signal that is too fast for the amplifier to cope with. So slew rate is an overload condition, and it should not happen at all for an audio amplifier. Slew rate essentially addresses the amplifier's ability to pass high frequencies, where waveforms are very fast in "risetime." Slew rate is determined by the total impedance of the speaker, which we hope is something close to the 4 or 8 ohms written on it, with the added resistance of the speaker cable, divided by the output impedance of the amp. The output impedance of modern amplifiers is low, often tenths of an ohm or even lower. Because the slew rate is the speaker impedance plus wire resistance divided by amplifier's actual output impedance, this can give you slew rates into the hundreds, sometimes even in the thousands. Damping factor: which is load impedance divided by amplifier output impedance. If the speaker impedance is 8 Ohms, and the amplifier output impedance is 0.01 Ohms, the damping factor is 800. That's a simplification. The lower the amplifier's output impedance or the higher the impedance load, the higher the damping factor, and the tighter the sound is. A damping factor of 1000 or greater is considered high. As you might suspect, damping factor is most important at low frequencies, say 10 Hz to 400Hz. High damping factor equals tight bass. Excerpts from the following sites: http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:mq4Rji...us&ct=clnk&cd=5 http://www.rwonline.com/reference-room/wir...-08.15.01.shtml

stussyking: Looking at the way you are sourcing information, I tend to believe you are trying to research digital audio evolution. If you are truly looking for a cdp for a system, what matters most is to listen and decide. Only your experience will lead U to the light of sonic nirvana. Discussion over a DAC, transport and other circuitry will not facilitate achieving your objective as firstly, preference is subjective and secondly, a product with the best aesthetics, design and/or technology, does not guarantee a sound you love. Even cheap contemporary dvdps sport 24-bit/192KHz DACs but they don't replace 16-bit cdps in audiophiles' systems. On a final note, products sporting the same DAC do not sound the same as the analogue stages that followed after DAC are different, thus, the different sound characteristics. The Denon 3910 is indeed a good dvdp and raved in xtremeplace but not because of its DAC but video quality. It's a feasible choice if you have a home theater system and seeks a player with wide audio compatibility and superb video playback on your plasma/lcd or better yet, a projector.

Here's the link to brochure of latest Pannie pcdps. Impressive I must say. http://www2.panasonic.com.sg/panasonic/sto...c%20sl-ct830%22

My friend U are going in circles. Buy what's available as gathering a database of present vs vintage players is quite pointless as there are risks and issues surrounding the latter which U must be aware of. In my case, I got a SL-CT790 to replace D777, not because of sound quality but age concerns. If I were trying to upgrade sound quality alone, I would have kept the D777 instead of spending more money on a new pcdp, although the 790 sounds great too. In this respect, focus on what you are seeking from the onset. A more feasible approach would be to test the preceding and current range of pcds that are still available. If 820 is no longer available, try out 720 and the latest 830 models.

You should switch on your equipment in the same fashion as signal flow ie. in the order of source > pre-amp > power amp. In addition, try to give about 10 secs before switching on the subsequent equipment, in order to allow the preceding equipment to stabilize (upon powering up). It's more imperative to adopt this habit with your pre-amp/power amp. Reverse the order (without a need for pauses as advised on power up) from power amp > pre-amp > source, when powering down. Because your power amp is already active, the power surge in source or pre-amp is thus fed to the power amp and thence to speakers, resulting in a thump. This is not good for your system in the long run. But if you have followed this procedure and still hear a thump whenever the power amp is switched on, it merely confirms the amp doesn't have protection relays in output or input or both paths. Some designers do not adopt this approach for the sake of better sound quality. If the thump is none too loud, don't worry about it. Just in case you are not aware, never never never switch interconnects from any equipment when it's switched on. The spikes from removal and insertion of the cables can cause sensitive electronic components to fail.

If you have an amp with ample power output, stick to the higher impedance versions of Beyer as the slew rate/damping factor is better than low impedance ones. However, the 32ohm option is ideal if one wishes to drive direct from portable source. Actually, I find that a portable PA2V2 drives 250ohm Beyer cans rather well but of course, a desk top amp will drive these cans better.

Color changes. If they turn from a purple (dry) to colorless or a light tinge of purple, then you know it's time to change them.

Btw, SL-CT 790 was the predecessor of SL-CT820, which is the flag ship model in the series that comprises of SL-CT720. I have both the 790 and 720. The newer series have digital amps which contributes greatly to transparency. Even the eq modes sound better and more realistic. In its days, SL-CT790 sounded better than its equivalent Sony ranges IMHO. The former was my replacement of a Sony D777 pcdp, which I found it to be a hard contender to match by the Sony models at the same time when Pannie SL-CT790 was contemporary.

I did a google search and here's what I got. Anyway you won't get much feedback on this system from hardcore home theater forum like Xtremeplace. Hence, I guess this will suffice. http://reviews.cnet.com/Denon_S_301/4505-6...7-31556197.html

You are experiencing a typical case of impedance mismatch, thus, succumbing to capacitance of the interconnects and rolloff in freq response. Not all pre-amp and power amp can work together. Please read paragraph 4 in the enclosed link. http://www.vtl.com/pages/system_match.html You are right about one thing though, its a electrical problem. By rule of thumb, the ratio of output impedance of pre-amp to input impedance of power amp must be greater than 1:10. Tube amps have higher input/output impedance than solid state. The situation is further worsened if you are matching a tube pre-amp to a solid state power amp. http://www.hometheatermag.com/readerqalp/

Well, at least u know where and what to search for if fungi were to appear on your cans.

Selica absorbs moisture indiscrimately. U can use it for anything and anywhere and in this case, to minimise moisture buildup in the place of headphone storage.

S$5/bottle of purple colored pellets

My EX70 is still in great condition despite heavy usage in the early days. Try not to stress the cable and joints and I think the key of its longetivity is how I stored it; always in its pouch coiled.

Correcto mundo

Congrats.....don't bother analysing it. Just enjoy the better music from your system now.

Dude, the abovementioned products are portable audio gears right? So it should belong to the Portable forum. I've duly moved it to the right place.

Closed design will have more bass volume than open design which generally sounds more balanced in other aspects of sound. Therefore, I won't be surprise if you eventually pick AD700 over A700.

Boh as in boh tea? What happened to you matey? To confirm if it's a true line-out or otherwise, the output level from which is lower than the max volume level from headphone out. In addition, the former should not respond to volume control changes.

Owing to public demand, I've applied some glue to this thread.

This thread is correctly posted in the Home Equipment section. If any thread were to be posted in the wrong forum, a mod will move it to the correct one. However, do no start the same threads in different forums in order to attract replies. Thanks.

U can find it at any HomeFix outlet. Look for them in the velcro section. It's green in color.