Mackie

1694a should have tighter specs as it's meant for digital audio/video application. Since RFI/EMI has a greater impact on digital signal quality, aluminium shielding wire is chosen over the less conductive but cheaper copper.

Hmmm... I wasn't aware you have already committed in a cd63SE, last heard, you were preparing for an audition. As for the question on aluminium and copper braiding, it's cost and conductivity. The former has twice the conductivity over copper on a weight basis. http://www.key-to-metals.com/Article116.htm Aside from Klotz GY107, Belden 89259 is suitable for your system. Belden 1694a is a 75-ohm cable meant for digital audio/video transmission. Of course, it could be used as an analogue interconnect but it might not sound as good as 89259.

Maybe you could request for a new transformer cover when another MO were to take place.

http://www.daiyo.ir/p6-2.html Part TA391, 0.2m

Actually, since you have them, you could be the first to write a review? Sounds like a waste to discard them when the problem could be easily rectified.

leeyn: Nice to see you research fast. However, using ferrite core to reduce hum will also reduce dynamics. This will be very obvious when playing back music with sharp transients such as cymbals clash or any form of musical climax. U may notice limited dynamics ie, a fast rolloff in transients when it could have extended further. Use the ferrite core by all means if what SE has mentioned above is correct, ie, there's hum before you mod the case. If the hum occurs only post mod, remove the ferrite cores and isolate the transformer from the chassis further (blue tack) until the hum is no longer audible. U could also employ velvet tape around the chassis in contact with chassis cover to reduce hum.

Firmer yes, but at the expense of a drop in transparency, which is the forte of the Senn HD600. Factoring it all, I wouldn't call it an improvement. YMMV of course, as personal preference always has the final judgement.

Sorry, I accidentally hit the edit button instead of reply. Gees....U don't have a sense of humor, do U? Google principles on architecture and tell me if a few holes in foundation will weaken it or not. Of course, it feels rock solid to touch but it's mechanical energy we are referring to. If the structure isn't affected, do you deduce the change in paint actually causes hum? My solution, apply blue tack to reinforce and dampen the vibration from transformer to chassis. Ferrite cores...and a few too.....U just killed dynamics. We have discussed about ferrite cores and the related thread could be found using the forum's search function.

1. Not a Belden but a Perilli power cord (pro audio make). 2. No need to replace the rubber clamp as my power cord is quite thick (would be the case too if you were to use a Belden 19364) and it covers most of the outlet. 3. XS is one of the few equipment I know that improves a lot in sound quality with a power cord upgrade. But in order for this to be materialised, you must know which sonic aspect you are trying to improve on. Belden 19364 will give a fuller but slightly laid back sound with expansive soundstaging. Belden 83802 (2 core) or 83803 (3 core) will sound leaner but tighter in bass with a slight tizz in treble which will sound fine if your system lacks transparency and treble extension. It is mildly brighter than 19364.

It's a sign of not being patient. The same paint aroma therapy occurs with XiangSheng amp as well but it will dissipate in a week or two on daily use. I'm afraid by drilling holes on the transformer cover, you have weakened its structure which is supposed to prevent excessive mechanical feedback (vibration) to the rest of the chassis. Anyway, I believe the tubes contributed more heat than the transformer. Hence, the ventilation holes on the cover of the latter do not rectify the heat issue by much.

Only your ears can decide the best headphone for any price. But you seems to be on the right track, given your wants.

I've installed an aftermarket power cord to my XS 708A. Pretty easy if you know how. The stock cable is hard soldered to LIVE and NEUTRAL points of the amp. Desolder these and simply solder the new cable to these points. BROWN = LIVE, BLUE = NEUTRAL, GREEN = GROUND. Any Belden power cable that you buy will have 3 conductors as color coded in the abovementioned. U can choose to leave the ground cable unattached (as with the stock cable) or scratch away the paint on the inside of the chassis and soldered the ground cable to it. Last but not least, U will notice the thin stock cable is held by a kind of rubber clamp at the cable outlet of the amp. After having desoldered the cable from the joints, use a plier and squeeze the rubber clamp until the part can be removed from the outlet.

I concur. Buy one for now. Let your taste matures and after prolonged listening, if you hope to improve on a certain or a few sonic aspects, then you can proceed with the purchase of another pair of cans to compliment the first one. Economical and wise, this will be.

First and foremost, Belden 89259 sounds really sparkling at the top end of audio spectrum which is really pleasant if one's system is lacking in this department. But it might not suit the thread starter's target of bass reinforcement. Klotz GY107 is a better option in this case. Wow, I'm surprised that the difference between a copper vs aluminium braided SHIELD is discernible and if this is really the case, the person should not play around with DIY but high end cables. My point? Do not be too concerned with the technical aspect and try to get the sound right. In which case, cables are meant to tweak the sound, much akin to fine adjustment on your TV set. If your system is far from reaching the target sound (like not locking into a certain TV channel), no amount of tweaking will help to achieve your objective. zero: As earlier advised, your weakest link is the source (dvdp) itself. Borrow a cdp or bring your amp and cans to place of audition and determine if it's true.

Must be a factory customised version of the latest DT990 version.

Happy birthday Wil. I'm sure your dad has prepared an expensive present for you......ask him!

Please pm me in future. A cable change is relatively subtle compared to tubes or equipment, it's akin to tweaking the sound (the former) and upgrading it (the latter). Hence, carry out the tube roll, live with it and then decide if you need to change the interconnects. Rule of thumb is you need to know which areas that need improving. If you don't, you would simply be hearing different sound and going in circles, which could be a rather expensive affair. IMHO, yes, change the input tubes before considering the output. To me, the CV4003 is a worthwhile upgrade over the stock tube which is on the bright side.

Blue? I used to wear DT231pro but it was given to my sibling long time ago. It's either DT831 or DT770pro now. Incidentally, I travel this route between 6.10-6.40 am. DT231 http://www.headphone.com/productPhotos.php?icn=0020110231 DT831 http://www.headphone.com/productPhotos.php?icn=0020110831 DT770pro http://www.thomann.de/prodbilder/106864.jpg

It's true the abovementioned aftermarket cables do indeed make a drastic improvement to HD600/650 - I'm not talking about golden ears but a layman can easily tell the difference. In doing so, the combined outlay becomes an issue as it pushes the Senn cans to a different price bracket, thus, facing competiion from higher end models from Grado, AKG, AT etc. But this might not be a concern to hardcore fans or those who have the dough. No matter which angle we see it, the value is in the eye of the beholder.

It doesn't really matter.....speaking from experience. I know for sure they wanna hear how your headphones sound compared to their butts....ooops...I mean buds.

Really? Hmmm.....he promised to let me test his prototype long time ago, maybe I should be so thick skin as to ask him again?

I've conducted this experiment and swapped the cables of HD600/650 but I couldn't find any significant improvement either way. This explains why Zu Mobius and Equinox cables remain sought after following the launch of HD650.

This term is commonly found in Enid Blyton's books (my primary school years....man.....28-33 years ago) on life in boarding schools eg. Malory Towers and St. Clares.

I'm using M1 service with a Samsung SGH500 and Nokia 8830 and Starhub with O2 Xda II mini. The function can be activated in the "message" menu ie, sms/mms/chat etc. Since the Xda mini does not have broadcast function, I've no way in telling if it's the network or the phone that facilitates this function. Btw, the broadcast also works in foreign countries if autoroaming were activated.

If you already have a positive opinion of the cans, stay with it. After all, it's not about public acceptance but your own preference that really matters. *thumbs up* Btw, I've deleted the repeated thread in the Home Equipment forum.