Firefox

Not quite true though. A good design like the Gilmore (and possibly modified) would be at least as good as batteries while not having dips in voltage output.

Considering that they are in the signal path, I suggest Elna Cerafines. Bypass them with your favourite film cap.

You guys just reminded me... I really feel like eating at BK now.. Gosh. Fortunately, I got posted to survey! Yay!!! No more bridge building attempts! *grinz*

Wicked meaning the plating is removed from the conductor....

jasonhanjk: The solder is sold on the rack below all the soldering irons etc. You have to look for it. Don't ask the shop assistants for silver solder, they will only show you the Goot silver solder. adhoc: Silver is added to solder, not for it's conductivity nor is it because silver oxide is more conductive than copper oxide. It's for soldering silver plated conductors because normal solder will wick the silver plating off. OTOH, adding a bit of silver prevents the silver from being wicked off the conductor.

Not sure about Nero cos it might not be the bit-for-bit copying that CloneCD does. Especially when it comes to sub-channel data/audio. I've tried comparing copies of the various CDR media with the original and I can say that the Mitsui is the closest to the original (almost the same). The Ricoh followed very closely followed by other various medias.

I use Teac CD-RW drives. It's just the reliability offered by the brand; Teac optical drives are amongst the most reliable in the industry (as with Plextor). But the newer models after the 40x12x48x burners are no longer made by them. They're sub-contracted. As for media, Mitsui Gold & Kodak Ultima Gold (NOS) are the best. Followed by Ricoh Gold media. Taiyo Yuden gold media is also very good (They OEM to Ricoh). Your el' cheapo Smartbuy or TDK media isn't that great.. I always rip & burn at 4x. Using CloneCD for exact duplicates. =)

I wouldn't say it poisons you. It makes people realise something about the 880's.

The HP890's are pretty okay headphones for the sub-$100 mark; Especially if you get a replacement cable for it.

Oh.. It's just that I saw some RCA's that have hollow pin, but their nickel-plated brass. Thought I could mod them into the poor-man's Eichmann's... Hehe. Less metal is always better. *grinz* BTW, how much is the wiring?

Do those RCA plugs have a hollow center pin? If so, lemme know how much & where you got them for... *grinz*

OMFG!! Overpriced!!! I can get it at Hung Brothers for $2.50/m - $2.80/m.

To add to the thread: Kester Eutectic solder (63/37) can be had from SLT at $15.80 for 500gm roll. The shop to buy from is at the basement, selling batteries; It's in front of the escalator going up to the 1st storey. Kester Ag2/62/36 silver solder can also be had from Kaichin on the 3rd storey for about the same price. However, it's relatively old and some oxide has formed on the solder. It might be necessary to clean the solder (with soda water & alcohol or Deoxit) before using. It's otherwise a good deal; Where else in Singapore can you get silver solder at $15.80 for 500gm? I also recommend the Goot TQ-70/77 soldering gun (S$30 to S$40). It's 20W and with the depressing of the trigger, goes to 200W. This is good for soldering heat sensitive equipment (IC's & SMD components) and also good for soldering to jacks & plugs. Especially gold and rhodium (Cardas) plated contacts. These need about 60W and above to get a good joint.

i don't know what "lobangs" means but since I work in a university, I had the PCB for my Gilmore done in house. I think it's $90 AUD if I sent it down south to be etched. Hmmm.... In Singaporean "slang" a.k.a. Singlish, Lobangs == 'Good deals'. i.e. If you have a friend who's a distributor for a product and can sell the product at a lower price than retail, you can call him/her a 'lobang'....

So.. How much was the CD7300?

Any 'lobangs' for pcb etching? hehehe

Well, perhaps you didn't know that 3 years ago, the Sennheiser HD600's were priced at a hefty $999 which drop slowly to $650 after a year or two.

I guess a little mildly soapy water then cleaning off with clean water would do fine.

Fans then to throw out a fair bit of EMI.. So it might not be a good idea to do so.

Please welcome Fabian, mad_mouse007, to the forums. Hehehe... OT guys, but he's my JC ex-classmate in the first 3 months. His HD570's just gotten some problems so he's going to get a new pair of headphones.. You guys take care of him okay? Thanks...

Next meet? No.... I'm taking my time to build the amp. It'd be at least 2 months before I even finish the supply.

It is similiar to the Gilmore Class A where it use Grados headphone, correct me if I am wrong... I know. If I want to, I'd get the PS5A, then split into 2 PS1 boards (US$5.00 each; occupied with my own selection of caps) and then onto capacitance multiplier before going to the opamps. Hehehe... Super-overkill!!! Yeah. A true dual mono would have to be a balanced bridge version of the KGCA.

There isn't one... It's just having 2 separate dual-voltage power supplies for each channel. And no common ground for both channels. ie. You need to mod the headphones' cable to split into 2 plugs. More work as well... More of an overkill but hey! I'm ain't me for nothing!

Not really. Just adding a capacitance multiplier section between the LM's and the Opamps to bring the N+R on the line even lower. And of course, building a dual-mono PSU + amp.

heheh... Maybe... I'm gonna build my enhanced mod of the Gilmore PSU for my upcoming Gilmore amp..