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Hi, Lately SGHeadphones.com have been rather slow for me, it can take over a minute to load page! Is the server overloaded or something? I am on Singnet Broadband 512Kbps. Ping times look good at around 16ms, but pages took forever to load. Regards CK

Hi, Haven't heard a lot of headphones, so can't really recommend. Sorry. Regards CK

well u can say that its both true & not true at the same time...kind of hard to explain, when u are listening to your instrument, u are hearing the sound of that instrument, but when u listen to "music" its a different story when u listen to classical music or any type of music, what u are hearing is the final mix of the recording that has been mastered by the sound engineer, he would hav added all the "staging" or effects to the mix, echos, reverb, chorus all these stuff to color the music, make it sound "polished" or "tailored". without all these the CD will sound like a Demo disc, raw & unrefine. in order to bring out the sound that the engineer wants u to hear, u need a headphone that can reproduced the music with all of its polished details, thats when u need a pair of cans that has the range, able to place all the instruments on their respective locations on stage, when all of these come together, u would be able to tell that the guitar is infont of the drums or that the backing vocals are standing just left on the stage...and so on, get the picture? if u use this same headphone for your instrument, then what u are hearing is not the true sound of that instrument, so if you are doing recordings, this may giv u problems, as u don't hav a breakdown of what your instruments sound like, cause these phones are usually not forward enough, everything will sound like they are in the background, or far away from u, in the final mix. so it all comes down to what u want to do with the sound u get from your instrument, but i think if u play an instrument, then most likely u will want it to sound un-colored & upfront hope this can giv u clearer picture of the difference between a headphone for instrument & a headphone for music This is not true for all types of music. Classical music is typically recorded with as little as 2 microphones. You get the natural soundstage from such a setup. The 2 microphones pickup the natural spatial relationships of all the instruments in the orchestra/ensemble. This unlike pop/rock where each instrument is individually miked, and the soundstage "created" by the sound engineer. Pop/rock recordings also tend to use multitrack/multilayer recording where each instrument can be recorded invidually of each other, at different times (if so desired). Thus the soundstage of recordings made in this way is "fake" and not natural. For mixing/listening to instruments, most people would prefer to use a neutral-sounding 'phones so everything will sound "accurate". These will tend to have flat frequency response, without any bass/treble boosts. For general listening of music, most people tend not to mind some colourations to the sound (e.g. like enhanced bass). Regards CK

Try the Reference Recordings/XLO Test & Burn-In CD. http://www.referencerecordings.com/SAMPLE.HTML There's a special burn-in track at Track #9 to do this. Regards CK

Wrong person, jtfoo is the one who posted a corrected version of kenshinz's drawing. For the volume control, jason has already answered. Hmm.. I remember reading somewhere in tangent's docs that this is not recommended as it could become unstable or something. Theoretically, it should, but I suppose if the batteries drain at a different rate, you will end up with unbalanced power rails. (e.g. +8 / -6V ). Using the R2/3 voltage divider resistors will ensure a more or less even split regardless of battery voltage. Using a TLE2426 rail splitter is even better. Regards CK

Don't forget, SGH in Singapore also means Singapore General Hospital! Regards CK

Federal does RS/Farnell? That's cool! Now I don't need to worry about minimum orders. Regards CK

Yeah, that's what I paid for mine. These things don't come cheap. Wait till you find out what the higher end ones like the OPA627, OPA637 costs. *sigh* So hard to buy proper parts down here in Singapore/SLT. I usually buy the more uncommon parts like the op-amps, etc online, then go to the stores for stuff like resistors, caps, etc. Good looking cases are hard to find as well. Regards CK

Try ordering the op-amp from RS Components. The Burr-Brown OPA2132 should be readily available. Which op-amp are you trying to buy anyway? I won't really be surprised if you just ask for "do you sell op-amp?" and get a negative response. Regards CK

Not sure about down here, but people in head-fi are already starting to build it. Regards CK

For those interested in bass boost, morsel and tangent (the M and T in META42) has mentioned in the head-fi thread that it is indeed feasible to add bass boost to the PIMETA (and possible the older META42) via a sort of daughterboard. See this for details. Regards CK

PIMETA has ground buffer, but no isolated power rails. Bass boost? Maybe can try adding it yourself the PPA way and see if it works? Regards CK

PPA based upon original META42, but the circuit topology was modified to have ground buffer, isolated power rails etc. Then PIMETA is based off this new PPA. Yeah, goes rounds in circles. Regards CK

No bass boost. Basically a META42 using PPA topology and BUF634 buffers. I started another thread in Headfi here: www4.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=545872 Maybe can think of it as a "PPA-Lite". Regards CK

Hi, Just came across this. A new META42 design - PIMETA : PPA-Inspired META42. This is supposedly based around the PPA topology. http://www.tangentsoft.net/audio/pimeta/ Somehow tangent has not updated his main page yet, but I got linked from his parts shop page. Regards CK (Edited typo : should be PPA-inspired, not PPL-inspired )

150+ and growing. Mostly classical. Regards CK

no one?

Hi, This is correct and is actually quite common for hifi equipment which has dB markings on the volume. The dB scale on the volume is not the same dB we use to measure loudness (otherwise known as dB SPL (sound pressure level) where the higher the number, the louder it is. If I am not wrong, the markings on that volume knob indicates attenuation. At maximum volume setting, there's no attenuation (hence 0dB). As you go towards minimum, there's more attenuation to the signal, until you reach infinity attenuation (no signal). Regards CK

bump

Hi, Selling the above. Foldable noise-cancellation headphones with aircraft headphone adaptor. Brand new, only opened for testing. More info here : http://singapore.creative.com/products/acc...speakers/hn505/ Interested parties, please pm. Looking at $60 but negotiable to a certain extent. Regards CK

That's right. Regards CK

Use a multimeter. Set to OHMS mode and connect the probes to the diode. It should conduct one way but not the other. Polarity wise, the end with the white band (in the case of a 1N4001) is the cathode (negative). Regards CK

The power supply section? Refer to the schematic and trace bit by bit? Check for dry joints, etc as well. Regards CK

Be careful of the TLE2426P, I destroyed mine (and it went up in smoke too) after I accidentally reverse powered my META which I have not implemented the reverse voltage protection yet. Desoldering is such a pain. Regards CK

Shucks, brought back a Cambridge Soundworks 15V regular power supply from office, forgot to check polarity, hooked it up and I think I fried the TLE2426. Didn't implement reverse voltage protection. The virtual ground is now at +Vcc I think. Hope my buffers and the op-amp are still ok. Regards CK