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Actually, I wouldn't say that. I've found the Joseph Grado Signature HP-1000 series HP-1's to perform extremely well in virtually any kind of music. Alas.. They're hard to come by.. And not exactly very cheap at US$700 - US$1k.

Technically speaking, I'd not recommend the Obelbach cable. It's cheap but you get what you pay for.

WCON-07!! hehehe.. Thinking of buying that also. Can be used with my Konica SLR and my FZ-10 once the adaptor arrives.. hehehe...

Try RS Components or Farnell. Otherwise, some of the shops at Kelantan Lane or the bigger DIY stores might have some. Alternatively, you can go to machining shops to ask them where they get their router/ CNC/ milling bits from.

Those are router bits. However, i suspect they can only be used for plastics and soft metal like aluminium or copper. Those for stainless steel or titanium are likely to be made out of carbide and can cost up to 5x - 10x that of the regular stuff. ie. A 25mm HSS hole saw for soft metals, wood and plastics cost about $40 with the arbor. A 25mm carbide hole saw for stainless steel etc. costs at least $165.

You should get an amp that's capable of driving headphones to their maximum 'dynamics' potential. Although the amount of dynamics and top-end extention on the HD-600's aren't very much, it'd make your music listening more enjoyable. Previously I couldn't put on the HD600's for more than 30's. Now I can plug it into my BBamp for at least a few tracks though it's not as exciting as the Grado SR-225's or Beyer DT-931's. That's considering that my amp's design just about squeezes every last drop of dynamics out of any headphones plugged into it (ask av98m, he can vouch for it). The other amps that at least match or have more dynamics than the BBamp that I've heard are the Sugden Headmaster and Kevin Gilmore Class A dynamic headphones amplifier. One major fact about the HD600's is that the stock cable simply needs replacement. It's an absolute flop. Consider the Zu Mobius or Stefan cables. The Clou's a bit too stiff but otherwise sounds reasonably better than the stock.

A pair of Klotz Starquad interconnects I just made:

Not everyone has a debit or credit card. =) For those who don't they can take a bus/ mrt ride down and get it.

The Sony MDR-E888LP's are out of production but sound good especially with amplification. I know it's hard to find them on sale in the local shops. I've spotted some pairs still on sale at about S$75 at one of the shops in Sim Lim Square, 1st storey. I can't remember which shop so those looking will have to hunt a little there. Also, I don't remember seeing them on sale at Jade Gift Shop, Shaw Towers when I was there with my ex a few months back.

The Stax is an electrostatic setup. You can only run Stax Electrostatic headphones off their amplifiers.

Can use microwave oven also... Hehe... Mine turned pink liaoz... Need to microwave then put back in my drybox. but too lazy.. lol....

The cable is replacable. As with the EH/HD 200/ 270/ 570/ 590 headphones. The trick is finding a sub-mini plug that would fit into the opening. Most of the available plugs don't.

If you guys grovel a little, you might be able to get Rameish to post pictures of his modified Rotel RCD-991. Hehe..

Hrmm.. My CDP mods were left off halfway through previously because my harddisk crash took away most of the newer pictures. Just cracked open the player so here are a few pictures fresh out of the oven.. err... camera.. The output board in it's entire modified state: There's something not quite right with this output board.. Make a guess.. The opamp adaptors with LM6172's mounted and the Class A biasing Cascode Jfets to the right: The original parts from the player:

Just realized that very few people have had the privilege of even seeing my actual setup in action. Lol.. Well.. Here it is: The dog is as mandatory for improved sonics as putting a Pavane stone or putting blu-tak on a crystal that looks like a blue box cap. Enjoy!

Have you heard the Grado RS-1's? You might want to give them a try especially with the Grado RA-1 headphone amp. OTOH, consider using the Meier Audio HA-2 amplifier (1st version; I believe it's on sale now) to pair up with them. You'll have crossfeed and if you want to tame the cans a little, there's always the 120ohm output. You might want to do some research before getting the CD3K's. They're apparently quite amp fussy and will only sound their best when matched with the right amplifier.

The AKG 501's are a little bass shy. If he finds that the DT931 is bass shy out of whichever amp he used, I doubt he'd find more bass in the K501's. The Grado SR325's are painfully bright. Not exactly what you'd use for his prefered genre of music. OTOH, the RS-1's and HP-1's lean much closer to neutrality and I'd recommend them. A good compromise is actually the SR-225's. They're only slightly bright but have the pace and speed.

KM7D!! hehe...

C1 1000uF/ 35v Panasonic FC @ Sunlight Electronics, SLT. 220uF/ 50v FC's also available from Koba (You can use multiple pieces for even lower ESR). C2, C4 Blue 2.2uF/50v polyester unknown brand @ Koba C3 This should not be required but a more suitable value would be a 0.1uF/ 63v film cap. Various values available from Koba. Resistors 1/4w, 1%, metal film, generic from Koba or shops in SLT. 1/4w, 0.1%, metal film, Welwyn available from Farnell at almost $1.50 a piece. More for the fanatics. Q1, Q2, Q3 Only 2N5486 are available at Farnell. 2N5457 can be used to replace the 2N5484. Available from Farnell too. Order directly from Farnell to get them at $3.30/ 5 pc. TLE2426 Available at Farnell. Federal component handle them @ $3.50 each Buf1 Intersil HA3-5002 available at Farnell. Federal component handle them @ $7+ each for q>10 Alternatively, order all the Jfets + Buffers + rail splitters and Hammond case from Farnell. Total order should exceed minimum order of $50 for free delivery. Volume pot Alps Blue 100K Log Stereo $20 at Well Audio at Burlington Sq level 1

It's used as a rail-splitter, not an isolating ground channel. Resistor dividers will easily drift because of the load.

There's too much metal for my liking in RCA jacks although I've contemplated such a mod before. In fact, I think using mini coaxial jacks would be better. They screw down tight and yet are small with low metal mass.

Smoma - Songs to Remember Smooth music.. Good to chill out to. Recommended!

I did not specify which end is for the source or amp. I did however, ground the shield on the end where the wording on the cable starts. As long as the cables are used with wordings on both going in the same direction, that's fine. Whether the terminated point is used at the source or amp is up to user preferences.

I quote from Jan Meier: "Gold plated contacts: No, gold doesn't sound better than bare copper, but it does prevent cracks and drop-outs due to oxidized contacts." This is especially true for low-level signals like from the source output. In fact, the voltage fed into headphones (at reasonably loud volumes) is actually lower than that of a CDP's line-out.

Hey Fuwen. You can try this but I can't guarantee that it will work. When you want to use the XP150, use the remote to mute the 963SA. It should work theorectically.