dundee

Regarding the ICs, what is reccomended? I am still using generic ofc cables...

In my experiance, the NJB3 connected to an external amp betters my com's soundcard.... (Audigy EX) using EAC .wav files ripped with a plextor drive. OTOH, the best sound still comes from a proper CDP.

im intrested too!! MO please!

1 week liaozz impressions?

im intrested...

Its not possible for us to recomend something on the fly so to speak. Tell us what lenses you currently have, the kind of stuff you normally shoot ect. For example, i do a significant amount of indoor shooting where flash is normally prohibited. Thats why i use fast wide to normal primes and am looking towards long primes to agument my lineup. You must look at your lenses as a whole and not a singularity. eg: theres no point in a 17-55 if you already have a 17-35. Then theres also a budget to consider...

yeah, but if u want it cheap then theres always p&s There is no point in saving on the lenses as a system's resolution is a function of the lens and sensor resolution, generally the lens being the limiting factor, expecially with large apertures. (the zeiss looks sweet i've been eying the canon 135/2, any idea how the zeiss 135/3.5 does in comparison?

ugh u dont know what u r missin... going to nikon and not using the excellent 17-35/2.8.... if you //really// want third party lenses, then canon would have beeen a better choice, better compatibility due to the larger mount. u can even use the zeiss lineup. 21mm distagon in particular.

try hung bros.

eh try a photog forum, will be able to sell faster. www.clubsnap.org

Disc village has it, saw it while stocking up on progold.

I tried the whole range, up to the 325i. (the RS-1 was out of my budget, so i ddnt bother.) in a nutshell, i very much prefer the 225 over the 125s. It was significantly more detailed and sounded better overall. Well worth the extra money. The jump from the 80 to 125s was to me not as apparent as the 125--->225 jump. suggestion: dont bother with the 125, go for the 225/325i and get yourself a good source while at it.

Thanks! which floor is V3 on btw? I was there last week and could not find anyone who stocks these.

im in the same situation as u are, looking for portable cans. Unfortunately, the sr60s are not portable at all... >< u will need to cart one of those clear plastic briefcases around. The ex81lp seems to have good reviews... but cant determine whats the best buy under $200. Keep us updated on your decision!

Does anyone know where i can get these and how much they cost? Thanks!! http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP....B&TabName=specs

YGPM

To *me* the difference is not great enough to justify the extra money. If you want better, get the 225. (i ended up with the 325is)

All factors play part, but lens plays the biggest part for the image quality, including resolution, especially in film. Film can be considered as a very high megapixel CCD. So normally film resolution is higher than the lens resolution. But in low megapixel CCD, No matter high the lens resolution is, the CCD will be the limiting factor. Remember that "A camera is not better than it's lens" Hope I am not too OT but I felt that film (or CCD ) is the limiting factor and not the lens. My reason is I ever use negatives ASA ranging from 25 to 1000. It is quite obvious to me that the lower the ASA I used the more details I am able to get from the lens. Even when I use ASA 25 I can still see obvious improvement in details and I can get grainless 8R print. My theory is if the lens is the limiting factor then after certain ASA u should not see anymore improvement in details, and hence the lens is the limiting factor. So based on my logic as far as up to ASA 25, the film is still the limiting factor. Views from u guys? Hmm, i have to disagree. The lens -----> sensor transfer is not seamless. There are resolution losses in-between. eg: (lens, 70) (film 80lpm) ----> output 55lpm (lens, 70) (film 90lpm) ----> output 59lpm (lens, 70) (film 100lpm) ----> output 63lpm (lens, 70) (film 110lpm) ----> output 65lpm (lens, 70) (film 120lpm) ----> output 66lpm <this is meant just as an example> Thus, by using higher res film, you will always get more resolution, although the lens is the limiting factor. For the record, using a high-contrast chart, Kodachrome 25 rates 100lpm Fujichrome Velvia 50 rates 160lpm Hence, if i get rid of the zoom lens and use a 50/1.4 or 35/1.4, i can expect an output resolution of 140 lpm++ using velvia 50. I hope this answers your queries.

--->If i load up ASA-32 slide (tec-pan, velvia etc) then the lens will definitely be the limiting factor. --->When shooting at f/2.8 or wider (i do this all the time, usually at f1.4-2) then the lens will also be the limiting factor.

1) Why do you want it wheather-proof? 2) Why do u want firewire/usb2? 3) Why do you want the CCD cleaner? I own the EOS-3, 1D and 300D. Have used the 20D, 10D, E-300, E-1, D70 and quite afew others before. Some quick tips.... --->The number of MP is not important. 4MP-8Mp is a 25% increase in line pairs per mm (resolution), pretty insignificant. --->What is important is that the camera must help you take pics. It should not hinder you. --->The lens is more important than the camera. ---> resolution is usually limited by the lens, not the camera. No point getting a good camera...without equally good lenses. (which cost more than the camera anyway.) ---> Yes, the E300 is one of the WORST cameras i've seen in awhile. The viewfiinder is terribly dark...and practically useless. Was impossible tio Its even darker than the 300D/D70... avoid this one. Bottom line, spend ~ 75% of your budget on ONE lens. preferably a wide prime, like the 35/1.4 or 24/1.4 or brighter. Do not waste your time on "kit lenses". Figure out which body you can afford with the remaining $$. (i will take the 350D/300D)

Well, i did take the last one....

How old is it? How many hours has it been used for? Any reviews?

Is there a better alternative to this? http://www.gradolabs.com/frameset_main.htm Thanks

At the standard sr-325 cost, $520.

Yeah, i got it Cant comment though, cos its not burnt in yet... here are some observations 1) Grado smell? what Grado smell? 2) Its not as heavy as some ppl make out, -at all- 3) its built realatively well 4) Sounds VERY good outta the box. 5) I dont find it very bright...yet 6) Its abit loose (i found this strange. Everyone complains grados are too tight) 7) Its outta stock right now. (22 feb) ---- Any Burn-in tips?? ---- Any general/grado-specific tips??