squalle

hmm heady with so many ppl getting the dDB, why not u guys settle on ur own for the transistors purchase you guys can poll up buy let's say 100-200 pieces. split the cost. split the transistors. then each of you measure the Igss then properly group them isnt that a lot nicer. and I think gonna be cheaper.

then I think ur ground opamp is clipped to the max output might be due to oscillation? or can be due to broken feedback

errm, how far off is it from the mid-value? ground op-amp input is correctly at mid-value (or thereabout)? if so, it means your ground op-amp is somehow oscillating or, the feedback's broken? anyway, if you meet me, please bring it and I'll take a quick look and see if I have any idea to help you out at most leave it with me for some tests

edwin the J113 are not for diamond buffer that is the CCS (not CSS), btw CCS == constant current source

what else are you ordering mr bug? LOL I dont get any package, so I can only afford EP630 LOL

so have u got the ferrites today?

WOW! how did you abuse them? my UM2 has been with me for months and yet there's no sign of tear anyway, try return if they wanna accept. usually, wear and tear is not covered under warranty

oh wow then you can get a lot cheaper than wat you can buy off him? well, if that's the case, I might want some raw ones lol coz I'd rather put the cable out directly to a male mini

arent those from ridax of linuxipod?

btw, the 10pF cap is the same. just different brand and when I checked yours out, it's actually made by vishay, while mine just some cheap ones LOL I dont think you need to change the 10pF just that, becareful not to accidentally swap the caps around. there's no labelling on the caps is there? good luck again ~enjoying voice of susan wong + pint + um2~

hmmm my CMOY2 runs on 3 AAAs it all depends on the chip I actually had put it up long time ago abt this I'm using maxim chips in there so it can run on low voltage SOHA on its own cant drive bookshelves LOL the power stage, as I've put it, is done using mosfets. combo with LM317's working as CCS power supply gotta be large. and yea, I bought wrong size of heatsinks, so gotta use fans to cool it down LOL sure, as you've started on SOHA, if there's any prob can just ask me I've brought the PINT to work btw uncased tho'

how different are they? if only due to different manufacturer, well, I dont think that's a big deal but inductor is different basically, 30Z and 60Z. let's see how things turn out after you try totally no casing yet so yea, no charging or watever hahaha havent even started real use of it yet still using the cmoy2 amp on the go and in office at home, I'm on SOHA, powered by class A mosfet stage, either to DT880 or my bookshelves

so heady, have u got some new parts? done with the assembly? I hope nothing wrong this time

wah can do it within office hours? btw, sent via pm already

yea I guess it might be the flux that's causing prob then =/ good luck how many boards have u got left btw?

errm heady I forget to ask till now when u measure 100+mA draw, did you have ur input plugged in? with anything will do sometimes, 0 input will cause the amp to oscillate. that happens to other amps too

those ferrites are rated at 100mHz so a very quick calc would yield that ur ferrites have 95nH inductance while mine have half of that still I dun see why this shd cause problems but I put it up for u to note

heady one minor difference between our builds is that I use different inductor urs is a 60Z impedance, whereas mine is 30z urs: http://sg.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/par...jsp?SKU=3237965 mine: http://sg.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/par...jsp?SKU=3056582 I personally wouldnt know if this can cause trouble my suggestion is, just try to rebuild first and see wat happens

mmm try ur best dont put the iron on the board for too long the board's rather good I'd say not as easy to take the traces off

hmm u sure it was the flux causing ur current consumption? how abt u try cleaning it off by using alcohol and wash it away? I did that for all 3 boards I assembled

try take the diode off? I'm still curious if the diode really eats up that much of current

yea I only changed those I hate cutting traces and such lol and so far I've proven that it's not necessary and you can lose the diode just jumper over it for the cap, it's just my guess you can just chk on the label of the packaging farnell, even tho very lousy with delivery, they dont give wrong items so far maybe if really wrong, then they are INDEED LOUSY. LOL btw, those are not exactly small LOL you shd know there are even smaller SMT parts

I didnt do anything to the ground driving op-amp hmm for the cap, then that means OK from your pic, the colour looks different from what I have LOL do they look like a bit bluish? mine do (vs the other ceramics cap which are yellowish) btw, that's a ZERO at NP0, not O

from his layout here : http://headwize.com/uploads/C1611.pdf I think can safely guess he follows this scheme: http://home.swbell.net/acavalli//images/Ca...Heater_1.07.gif

looks OK to me just that the C3 caps, I think you might've gotten wrong type? did u get the NP0 or C0G type? if you get normal ceramics, it will somehow affect SQ can read somewhere within tangent's articles and I've verified that from many other sources o, maybe try take the big diode off, replace it with wire see if the consumption goes down I guess it will oh, btw, you dont really need the diode there you wouldnt plug the battery in wrong polarity would you? diodes are a must if you wanna do on-board charging