pegasus21

Whoa nice contest... If only my technical skills were better I might try this since a stand would be rather neat for my MS1. I think i'll stick with a ready made banana stand. Have fun pple.

Wouldn't it be better to ask the guy who made it? If there's a problem just send it back for repairs since there's servicing provided... Just the postage.

I don't get the idea of using the line out since the line out is pretty loud as it is... It's not a true line out.

I donno how to compare it to another amp cos I only have that with my cmoy2. I like it too. I'll be adding AD8066 later to test out.

The stock earbuds do not have the bass... Seriously consider getting even a cheap earbud. I haven't heard the Grado 60 yet but I'm using MS1 which is pretty decent except for the sound leaking. lol

Doesn't affect us in Singapore (Assuming you're in Singapore). It's some UK compliance standard. So just order either one. Do note that the AD8620 comes only in SOIC or the MSOP I think. So you'll have to either make your own convertor or get an adaptor pcb from pple on this board or somewhere...

LOL. Good luck with your upgrade.

That's real fast. Why are you selling?

Ok, the reason why a 12V supply is recommended... It allows you to play with the higher end chips like the OPA627 as they require higher voltages to work well. Current draw is estimated to be less than 100mA cos the LM6171 handles up to 80mA. So if your circuit requires more than 80... you're out of luck unless you put another LM6171 in parallel or you redesign that part a bit... I myself just finished a CMOY 2 with a 12V regulator. The LED resistor... you can use 2K Ohms. That'll give your LED about 5mA (Assuming red LED is used Vd of 1.778V) of current to light up with. You can decrease the resistance if 5mA isn't enough.

Ok, just finished one with an AC to DC regulator... Plugged in AD8620. Sounds nice. Just need to figure out how to mount it in the casing. Oh and a better IC.

LOL. Thinking of using MAX chips to step up the voltage to 5v to support the op-amps. I don't think it's as simple as just using the OPA134 since the pin out description don't match for the 2op-amps to single op-amp. You'll still have to move the traces. Looks like my battery operated one will be a complete redesign so it'll be better to start from scratch... my home ver will be the default board design with hook up for ac. Jason: btw, i think haruhi makes a nicer avatar.

Thinking of a simplified design that uses 2 x AA. Then it'll use a MAX619 or MAX1642 to step up the voltage to 5Vp-p and it'll be used as the V+ and V- of a single AD8066 chip. I'm sure it'll be more distorted compared to the cmoy 2 and maybe even the cmoy... but if just might work. Need to get the chips to test out...

LOL Thanks for bumping the other thread. So you never did use that hammond casing to fit your board? It's going to be a tight fit... but i think i can work it... Panel would have audio in, audio out and the volume pot cum on/off switch. Would also be tight... Was thinking of bypassing the LM6171, c3-7 and setting up the board to use only 1 opa2134 and removing the led to cut a little on power... Major rewiring. lol Maybe even use a new stripboard for that stripped down ver.

I had the px200. The isolation was pretty good. Haven't heard the px100 so I can't tell you if the px200 is really that much worst in response. A problem I've noticed is that px200 pads will degrade to a quality where they come off... Mine did after about 2 odd years of constant usage. The isolation will wear out first... So maybe the px200 isn't a good choice. I'm on ms1 atm. No isolation but the quality of the sound is far superior to px200.

Nice, i'll test it out later once i'm at home. Edit: Ok, I've tested it. It seems to provide the same feature in the tone generator as in generating pink noise. Just simplier to setup since you only need to setup the loudness, length to play and play it.

Ok this is what is mentioned in the help file for the generator... White Noise White noise is the noise created by a random signal. It sounds like an untuned television set. It is useful for testing the frequency response of a room or audio process. White noise has more energy in the higher frequency bands so sounds brighter than pink noise (see below). Noise does not have a frequency. Pink Noise Pink noise is similar to white noise except that it has an equal amount of energy in each octave (down to 20Hz). This can be more useful than white noise when analysing the signal on an octave scale. Because pink noise has more bass energy than white noise it sounds muffled. As most of us won't be able to hear the higher frequencies... I guess that's why people recommend pink noise over white noise...

Remember. Never play those tracks at high volumes. You risk damaging the drivers... An alternative to using the burn in track on the cd is to use NCH Tone Generator available here... http://www.nch.com.au/tonegen/index.html Use it for the pink noise generator.

Thanks. I'll have a look at that place.

You're somewhat in the same boat as me. I'm in the midst of getting parts to build my amp. BTW, how much is the XLO and where can I get one from? Thanks.

Hmm... his profile has him as last logged on beginning of may... wow. Going to be a bit hard to get him, no? Jason, mind selling 2 boards with the wila caps or should I contact him via email? Seeing as he stays pretty near me... I think meeting him would be good too. Thanks

Ok, had another look at the schematics. Yeah I get the 2nd op amp in a single channel thing now. The 2nd op-amp looks like it's just a buffer. Anyway, in terms of power requirements, which design has a lower consumption. CMOY or A47? Cos I remember jason or tropical saying that they get like 6hours or so with this. Was thinking of using 8066 or 8620 with this. They are pin compatible just that they come in SOIC only so I'll just have to see how to get it in the circuit. The browndog with SOIC won't work huh then maybe I'll just use solder on a breadboard cut to size. 627/637 would be too expensive in this setup since I'll need 4 of them unless I mod the circuit. 843 might still be alright. Just hope tropical replies soon. Oh yeah the casing. I was thinking of getting the volume pot with switch like someone did so that should fit just nice in that case. That's assuming there's somewhere I can still get the Hammond from. Got any casing that's slightly bigger or know where to get the Hammond? I'll like to know the place to get too. Thanks.

I guess that's why people rather make their own amps so that they know they can easilly change out the op-amp for another to change the characteristics of the amp.

lol. Hopefully he still has boards... but the casing is sold out as I've mentioned earlier. So your board will either be left in the open or you will have to make a casing yourself... I think I'll need to study the trace... Anybody got the trace diagram? I want to see if I can use one of the browndog adaptors in the slot... otherwise i'll probably have to rewire the pcb a bit...

Actually I'm interested in getting a board too. Already sent tropical a pm just that farnell has no stocks for both colours of the hammond casing. Wonder what other casings would be suitable. Another thing, why use 2 x OPA2134? At least in the schematics I didn't see the need for 2 chips since OPA2134 is a dual op-amp. So I take it that WIMA caps are pretty good? Think I can get some off tropical too? LOL

MS1 sounds real nice. You should save up some and get one.