ckng

If the AMP6 series is anything like the AMP3 series (I think should be pretty close), then you cannot simply connect a pair of headphones to the output as the outputs are balanced and do not have a common ground like most amps do. In simple terms, the (-) of the Left and the (-) of the Right are different. Most headphones have a common ground for the L/R ear and unless you mod the cable so that the Left and Right earpieces are totally isolated you might experience problems connecting it to the AMP3/6. Regards CK

Sounds good. What speakers are you driving with the AMP5? Regards CK

Bought a used pair from N@Z in this forum (hmm, speaking of which I don't see him around anymore) a couple of years back. Excellent headphones for classical, vocal, jazz type of music. Liquid midrange, very natural sounding. Regards CK

Hmm, wouldn't epoxy be inefficient at heat transfer? You can also try those U shaped heatsinks for the regulator, commonly available at places like Koba, etc. Regards CK

From the reviews of the AMP1 (which is basically the same thing) @ 41hz.com, it does seem to require a long running in time to sound good. This guy has roughly the same experience as you in terms of sound. http://www.41hz.com/Forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=218 For heatsinking, maybe you can consider bolting regulator and/or the Tripath to the casing? The Tripath chip should't need something too big. Maybe something smaller than this. http://img342.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf15477xs.jpg For the regular, maybe something like this. available from Farnell. Farnell also has some ridiculously expensive heatsinks Regards CK

When the phone rings and you are playing some loud music.... Or maybe can think of it as a standby kind of function, i.e. the amp is always "ON" and the components are nice and warm for your listening when you unmute. Regards CK

Not sure how to fix a humming transformer, maybe you can post the question to the 41hz forums? Your voltages above looks pretty much ok to me. Regards CK

Actually you don't need such a high rating for the switch. For a 200VA transformer at max rating, it will only draw 200/230 = 0.87A @ 230VAC. On the 20-0-20 side, you get 200/40V = 5A max. Your 4A one will probably work well too. Regards CK

I used the General Use values (gain=-1) as well for my AMP3, guess I'll follow suit in AMP5. What I find is that if you are not using a active pre-amp but just a volume pot for volume control, the gain is a little on the low side. Regards CK

Look for any ground point on the PCB. E.g. the negative side of the big bulk capacitors is a good starting point. Be careful not to short out anything! Regards CK

Those portions probably run on fairly low current. The huge transformer is more for the output stage to have enough power to drive your speakers at the desired volume Regards CK

I think Jan wanted to keep them as small/short as possible. You know, a bit like SMT components. Regards CK

Looks pretty good! I don't have a bench vice so I had to do the toroids of my AMP3 by hand. Not very fun. Regards CK

Same here. Been busy and weekend too tired. Wonder if kross has started... Regards CK

What I did for the AMP3 toroids is to put in the first turn, pull tight, wind 2nd turn, pull tight, wind 3rd turn etc until the number of turns are completed. You have to make sure all the turns are tight. Otherwise the wire might not be long enough. I *think* if you have a bench clamp it will make things easier as you can clamp the first turn there and wind the rest. Have you started building? Regards CK

I have yet to start nor order the transformer. Still deciding between external or internal power supply (i.e. transformer). The casing from Thailand looks damned good. Check out their gallery of DIY stuff using their casings! http://www.atiresearch-anodized.com/diy%20gallery.html Regards CK

I kinda like this one : They are based in Thailand and also has several other casings. http://www.atiresearch-anodized.com/products.html I asked for a quote. Not cheap. The shipping is very expensive. I also asked for some other options. Shipping more than one obviously has some savings, but still on the high side Anyone knows where to get nice casings like that? Regards CK

How much is the WE 2C51? Regards CK

This I am not too sure. I am a tube newbie. Regards CK

Here you go. http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20060513/th...ssile-launcher/ Regards CK

6Z4 (Rectifier) converts the AC from the transformer to DC. The 6N3 acts as a pre-amp to bring the signal level from the input of the amp (e.g. from a CD player) to a level that can be amplified by the output tubes. The 6N11/6922/6DJ8 are the output tubes which amplifies the signal from the 6N3 and provides the drive for the headphones. Simple. Regards CK

I don't know how a 708A is like inside (I use a 708B), but you can probably buy the required lenght of the Belden cable, unsolder the stock cable, and solder on the new cable? Regards CK

I guess this cute USB Missile Launcher is a no-no too? Regards CK

Sounds interesting. Maybe I should try it on mine. If it's really cosmetic then we can save some money on NOT replacing this. Regards CK

No idea man. Either I can get a 25V toroidal and uncoil some windings to get 22V, or get a 20 or 24V EI transformer. Or run 18V and lose some power. Have not decided which way to go Regards CK