tropicalrips

how stable are the HDD based MP3 players? has anyone used it for more then 6 months? can i change the HDD myself?

foldable also means portable rite? but i think its a little too big to be portable, it does not hav a slim profile like other fodable/portable headphones

found it N@Z the one i saw was SBCHN100 noise cancellation headphone it has the exect same shell as the SBCHS900 so if the NC cans only $99...i think the SBCHs900 should be cheaper i'm guessing maybe $60-$70

nope its not this it has a conventional headband does the SBCHS900 hav volume control? i think the noise cancellation is only an adaptor with 2 plugs that look like those for airplane. don't think i comes with the actual NC module cause only $99 the one i saw may actually be the SBCH900 N@Z

did not see this at Hung Bros when i was there today, did see somthing similar, it has the same egg shape and the blue plastic with the Philips name aslo same, but its foldable and also has noise cancellation went there to try out the PX100 & 200, also tried the ATH-AD500 & the older (made in japan) AD10, end up buying the Koss porta pro instead

i hav ordered another op-amp from federal today, collecting it tomorrow, then i'll know if the fault is in the op-amp or somthing else can get the rail-spilter off the shelf in SLT? wish me luck

it was the first time i listen to the HD600, someone once told me it had no bass and sound flat, so i was surprise when i heard jason's setup, it sounded like my D40fs, but the AT is a studio phone so it the sound is very forward & in your face. i would say jason's setup sound quite close to the W1000 in the lower frequency, with the 1000 being a little more "warm" when i was trying the PPA with HD600, it was playing some kind of jazz track with a female vocal, not sure who it was (need to ask jason), she sounded like her voice was going to crack, it was going higher & higher, but it didn't crack at the end maybe it was clip by the PPA? the source was an MD, how much will the MD affect the sound?

hav anyone tried jason's HD600 with his PPA? i think only me & Kenshinz tried it during our "mini meet" in suntec city, i only tried it briefly. first impressions : birght on vocals bass was a suprise good staging i think jason is tweaking it with some new stuff (regulated power supply)

kenshinz, i think we hav check all our resistor value one more time to confirm everything, we may all be mislead by the list on Tangent's site anyone can list the exect values for a basic CMOY without any optional parts & tweaks? jason? is the original design using all 4.7k (including the voltage divider) except R4 (10k) which is on the output side after the cap. we should hav made up a list of the values from the begining, i was very confused by the list on Tangent's site, and all the other writings and drawings on the net, had to keep going back & forth just to figure out which resistor goes where

jason, how long will it take u to build 1 PPA if i order it from u today? i intend to use it to drive the W1000, not for portable use, so need it to run from AC supply. how much would it cause if its fully "tricked out" with high quality parts

i think the ATH-W2002 also hav Titanium drivers there is also the ATH-A1000 & ATH-A100TI, the 100ti is also limited, its "ti" extention should mean it has titanium somewhere on it not sure if the W1000 also hav it

the audio techinca's new AD series might be a good choice for u red ryder they are comfortable and the price is also very resonable, i think the ATH-AD300 is below $100, i tried it for a while at SLS and they sound quite good, i think they are close to the Beyer DT331 but it has more kick in the bass area ATH-AD300

what would the transistor values be for the rail spilter? i think its true u can learn a lot from the problems of the Cmoy i now hav the circuit in my head, my second board was done without looking at the drawings but i still can't figure out the problem... i know the voltage is driffting to 1 side, but this only happens when the op-amp is in place, when i take it out, the voltage on both sides is the same +- > 0.3v so i think i need another op-amp to confirm anyone hav extra op-amp lying around?

no other way?

can get this in SLT? or also need to pre-order?

but i want to keep it to 1 batt so its more portable and can also fit in my case mar

no more hissing, now is no sound at all i only get sound when i use 1k resistors as the voltage divider, but it distorts, going to try with even lower resistors for the divider, any suggestions how low i can go? my (+) & (-) on the board is not balance, abt 7v on 1 side and 2v on ther other, i suspect the op-amp is causing the fault, cause it is balance without the op-amp, only when i plug it in the voltage drifts to 1 side

i use a digital meter to measure the resistor values, i don't think the values are wrong just need to know which resistor goes where

here is a better pic of the front the jumpers are following the pics on Tangent's site

here is pic of the under side, don't know if this can help

thanks Jtfoo, what abt the resistors around the op-amp? i'm using 100k, is it correct? the voltage side i'm quite sure its correct, + on the left - on the right, following the caps, both the caps and the dividers r connected to ground as well with the 4.7k dividers, i get very soft volume, almost none, tried it with 1k, volume increase, can i use 0.5k ? there is also a voltage difference between the left & right side, 2v & 7v on the other, is the op-amp causing this?

i'm using 3.5mm electrical wires for the jumpering, strip away the insulation and just use the copper wire, they fit nicely into the board

i think if i build a test board it would make me more blur i hav trace my wiring base on the pic on tangent's test site everything looks ok, all my in & outs r in the correct place, the ground is also correct, but i'm still not 100% sure abt the values of the resistors to use, the list is confusing... what should the voltage divider resistors be? & also the (+a,-a) & (+b,- around the op-amp, the only resistor i'm sure is the R4 which is 10k

done up new board...still no sound... i think the op-amp is KAPUT anyway to test the amp? i hear a split second of audio when i switch it on then its gone, total silenca again i measure the (+) to ground at 7.8v and the (-) to gound is 1.2v this is not normal right? went back to the 2 batt layout and it works, but something very funny, i pull out one of the 9v and it still works is it normal, it works with (+ 9v) to ground and (- 9v) to the cap now i'm lost liao i hav double check all the resistors and they r correct, so can't figure out why it worked the first time i manage to to get it to work with 1 batt (very soft volume) just now using 1k as voltage divider, the other 4 around the op-amp is 4.7k, 2 10k as R4 based on Kenshinz drawing

jason yes i connect (+) of batt 1 & (-) of batt 2 to ground i also tried the one battery layout both had the same problem (hissing) but i solved that now by using the same resistor value for R3 (op-amp audio output) & R2 which is the op-amp's own ground i think everything was ok liao, i tested it with the volume pot and it works, no more hissing then i finish the case and put everything in...turn on the power...hear only silence... it went dead, going to do another board tonight, i think i re-soldered the first one too many times, but it did live for abt 20mins