Guide to fix up a Cmoy 2

[Guest strumluff]

Another cmoy, a more portable one for your mp3 player I've gone straight in for the portable approach, much more fun/stress to be had with the enclosure!

 

Which OP-Amps did you use Rancid?

Edited September 7, 2006 by strumluff

[RancidM 0]

used box standard OPA2134PA's

[jasonhanjk 0]

Congrads Rancid.

 

That's the best looking bend resistor I've seen so far.

 

Edit: How 'bout a mint?

Edited September 7, 2006 by jasonhanjk

[heady 0]

Yeah, rancid, are you a dentist? Those wires looked like they were bent by an orthodontist.

 

Anyway, it is a beautifully built amp. And I agree, some people just don't get it about diy.

 

 

[heady 0]

Ok thanks guys, no worries heady, its a relief that it wont be a pain to mount in to the tin, just a plastic sheet sounds good

 

I just use a piece of cardboard from the back of a notepad for this. Works fine and not thin enough to be perforated by sharp ends of the cut leads.

 

[Guest strumluff]

Actually to fit it in a penguin tin, the pcb needs to be inserted upside down because the pot is mounted to the pcb the hole needs to be drilled low. I'm still waiting for my damn LED and RLED from Maplin (so slooow), if i just jumper the LED and RLED holes temporarily i can test the amp though right?

 

I'll put up photos once mine is finished to show how I fit my Cmoy2 in a penguin tin

[RancidM 0]

i dont think the LED or RLED even have to be fitted for the amp to work.

 

i ahve a spare blue LED and resistors if maplins are being an arse.

[Guest strumluff]

Hey Rancid that would be great, I'll give them till the end of the week and they can kiss it goodbye. They were out of stock and said they'd place an order in (which they did incompetantly anyway) when i went to get my headphone jacks over a week ago. The only way I'd be happy to pay for them would be via paypal though

Edited September 7, 2006 by strumluff

[RancidM 0]

Strum matey theres still time for me to get this in the post befor the end of work today.

there is a Maplins just 10 mins walk away from where i work.

 

let me know what you need and i will get it sorted.

if we are swift enuf you may well have the Led and resistor for tommorow...

 

 

[heady 0]

I'm still waiting for my damn LED and RLED from Maplin (so slooow), if i just jumper the LED and RLED holes temporarily i can test the amp though right?

 

Please don't jumper either the LED and RLED. You will probably short out the battery. The amp will work fine without either LED or RLED.

 

Just want to make clear this point, as the subsequent post seems to imply that it is ok to jumper them.

 

[Guest strumluff]

Thanks for that heady

 

Rancid mate, don't worry about it, I appreciate you trying to help but I'd rather not put you at an inconvienience. Just been to Maplin this afternoon and had a real go at them, they were incredibally disorganised. Apparently my led and knobs had been received from my Order-In 2 days ago but I was not contacted. They looked for the components which were in stock but couldn't find them!! 6 of the 7 staff were either trainee or just braindead or lazy. Fortunately the 1 person that I know is competant was there and tried her best to find my order but no luck. She just gave me a call once I got home saying that she called the customer service dept. and explained that my uncle (who was with me) is a loyal customer and knows her well and managed to swindle it so I could get my LED and knobs delivered to my door hopefully by tomorrow. Result!

Edited September 8, 2006 by strumluff

[RancidM 0]

good to hear youve got it sorted.

 

 

[Guest strumluff]

Time for another nubbie question (sorry). Is it easiest to mount the components to the panel first and then solder the wire from the pcb to the mounted component? I'm trying to find the easiest method to solder the wire between pcb and components.

[RancidM 0]

Time for another nubbie question (sorry). Is it easiest to mount the components to the panel first and then solder the wire from the pcb to the mounted component? I'm trying to find the easiest method to solder the wire between pcb and components.

 

what i did was solder all the components outside of the case and tested that all worked first.

and then mounted it all in the case whilst still all connected.

 

id imagine it will be harder to "get at" the components when there in the case allready.

 

also if your going for looks then you dont want to be fiddling around with the case when soldering everything, only working with the case at the very end to minimise scuffs/scratches etc.

 

 

[Guest strumluff]

Okay guys, my amp is finished and I'm very happy with it!! Pictures are to come, its not quite in the enclosure yet you see.

 

I do have a couple more questions. I'd like to modify the amp so I can use a 12v DC wall adaptor and also be able to use my 9V battery. Obviously not both at the same time, is it possible for me to do this? What I'm thinking is to havea DC socket mounted on the box, but also a 9V battery plug inside the box too, so DC can be used at home, and 9V while i'm out (portable). Thanks gus!

 

Now back to this metal tin busines...I have taped down the metal case so the pcb can sit inside without shorting. Jason said something about making sure that the grounds of the headphone sockets should be shorted to the tin, if its mounted to the tin it should be grounded right? Or am i wrong? If i'm wrong does that mean i need to attatch a wire from the socket to part of the metal on the tin?

 

Cheers guys, I appreciate the help for my amatuerness!