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Shiro MS08th

Power cords and interconnects

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Check connection between amp and speakers and make sure the polarities are correct. If the power cords are DIYed, make sure the plugs are terminated correctly ie, blue to "N", green to "E" and brown to "L". If no abnomaly is found, check on your speakers positioning and make sure your seat (sweet spot) is at the center of the 2 speakers and equal distance to each speaker woofer/tweeter. Please start another thread if necessary.

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I believe he meant getting the 83803 at $10-20 more than the 19364.

Bullet plug from LOK cost 15-20 EACH versus 20 for a pair of the neutriks. There are more expensive varieties if which you can get at musiclink (beach road shaw leisure gallery)

 

There is how many brands of bullet plugs?

Which brand have what kind of characteristics?

$15-20 each, so RCA-RCA, means I need to get 4 bullet plugs, so $15-20 x 4?

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Hi Shiro,

 

I have DIYed power cords from 83803, they do me is value for money but i think there is also a version with only two wire (cheaper) provided your cdp does not need the earth.

 

To smooth all the spikes, try Audio Prism - Quite Line filters. They work wonders. Lastly plug in a 75ohm resistor in the cdp coaxial out if there is one.

 

Above are some external mods. Try all external mods before stripping your baby.

 

Cheers,

clemo

 

Does not need the earth?

I've have no knowledge in DIY or stuffs, so do you mind explaining in a simpler term?

Sorry, but thanks!

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Most if not all captive cords on cdps are 2-pin as grounding is not as significant as in amps. In fact, having more than on ground in a sound system can cause ground loop, which causes hum. Since it's unsafe to lift the ground in a pre-amp and power amp, the source is usually the chose one.

 

U have a wrong concept of digital signal transfer. Impedance and resistance is not the same. The so-called 75ohm cable impedance ideal for digital transfer is specified as so at a benchmark frequency, much akin to speakers specified at 8ohms at 1Khz. The impedance of the latter will fluctuate on different frequencies.

 

If you are already using a Belden 1694A for digital S/PDIF connection, there's no reason to worry about much signal deterioration.

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Remember that interconnects and power cords serve to tweak the sound that your system inherits and they don't change its overall characteristics. Think of it as fine adjustment of a TV set.

 

For the tweak on unused digital output, please check out the thread "Mackie's plug". They work especially well with Marantz cdps. This tweak was also tried by other audiophiles in www.audioreview.com when I posted a review of a cdp, inclusive of this tweak.

 

On my part, I don't recommend Belden 83802/803 cable as power cord for a source as it makes them sound edgy at the top end, not unless you have a source that has much treble rolloff. This was highlighted many times in previous threads, especially those regarding power cord upgrade for amps. I favour Belden 19364 as a better and more user friendly cable to be had as power cord for sources. Although it might not have the bass tightness of 83803, the overall presentation is much improved over the stock cord and most importantly, smoother from midrange to treble and thus, kinder to most ears.

 

Belden 19364 costs $10/m. Terminate it with a MK UK 3-pin plug, be it white or red as internal structure are of hospital grade, and finally, a Shurter IEC female plug on the other end. I reckon the hole receipe for 1m will not cost you more than $30.

 

Last but not least, sonic improvement from power cords are harder to discern than interconnects, but the improvement over the stock cord should be quite obvious. My concern is whether your cdp has a captive power cord or a IEC male connector that allows easy swopping of power cords.

 

Sound edgy on top end?

Meaning abit too bright and too high?

 

So if I get the 19364 for the cdp power cord, but 83803 for the amp power cord, will it suit the overall setup fine?

Since you said you usually prefer to partner the 83803 to amps.

 

And for the IC, about those rcaps stuffs.

Is there any explanation on the characteristics of different materials?

 

Like neutriks, copper, silver bullets and so?

 

Thanks again all!

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There is how many brands of bullet plugs?

Which brand have what kind of characteristics?

$15-20 each, so RCA-RCA, means I need to get 4 bullet plugs, so $15-20 x 4?

 

Thanks for the help!

Does not need the earth?

I've have no knowledge in DIY or stuffs, so do you mind explaining in a simpler term?

Sorry, but thanks!

 

 

Shiro: I know you are a newbie but you gotta do some homework. The answers to all your questions are already available in this forum. If you bother to type "bullet plug" on google, you will learn Bullet plug is made by Eichmann. It's not a category nor the shape of the plug. Are you willing to spend more than $100 for a pair of plugs? If not, stick with Neutrik and Canare.

 

Refer to the following on viix"s recommendation on LOK and Eichmann Bullet Plugs

http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:Il0_2x...us&ct=clnk&cd=1

 

Edgy......I feel there's a metalic tizz in the treble region in regard to 83802/803. I'm giving you a more specific tonal detail than say brightness which can mean a hump from upper mid range to treble. I find 19364 for source and 83803 for amp makes a good partnership but as yet and 2 pages long, I still have no idea what's your system.

 

Edited by Mackie

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Shiro: I know you are a newbie but you gotta do some homework. The answers to all your questions are already available in this forum. If you bother to type "bullet plug" on google, you will learn Bullet plug is made by Eichmann. It's not a category nor the shape of the plug. Are you willing to spend more than $100 for a pair of plugs? If not, stick with Neutrik and Canare.

 

Refer to the following on viix"s recommendation on LOK and Eichmann Bullet Plugs

http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:Il0_2x...us&ct=clnk&cd=1

 

Edgy......I feel there's a metalic tizz in the treble region in regard to 83802/803. I'm giving you a more specific tonal detail than say brightness which can mean a hump from upper mid range to treble. I find 19364 for source and 83803 for amp makes a good partnership but as yet and 2 pages long, I still have no idea what's your system.

 

I'm also bemused by the term interconnect recaps....what's is that? Do you mean RCA plugs or method of termination such as crimping, screwing or soldering?

 

My apology again, will do more researching on old threads next time.

Sorry for not listing down my system yet.

 

I'm using Marantz cd63se TS Lim modded cdp, Little Dot 2+ amp.

 

On the recaps, should be RCA plugs I guess.

folgalv told me on the 2nd post of this thread.

 

Thanks again.

Edited by Shiro MS08th

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I believe you have decided on Klotz GY107 and that is a good choice if you wish to attain greater mid bass slam and retain the signature Marantz warm midrange. You could also try Belden 89259 which will give a slight treble lift which the CD63SE can accomodate. Since Belden 19364 power cord tends to contribute to soundstaging expansion, it will address the slight closed-in nature of the Klotz interconnect. Having a 83803 power cord at the amp will sort of clean up the bass region since both Klotz and CD63SE may sound punchy as a whole but less tight or refined. Therefore, I deduce the abovementioned power cords apllied as stipulated will be beneficial to you.

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I believe you have decided on Klotz GY107 and that is a good choice if you wish to attain greater mid bass slam and retain the signature Marantz warm midrange. You could also try Belden 89259 which will give a slight treble lift which the CD63SE can accomodate. Since Belden 19364 power cord tends to contribute to soundstaging expansion, it will address the slight closed-in nature of the Klotz interconnect. Having a 83803 power cord at the amp will sort of clean up the bass region since both Klotz and CD63SE may sound punchy as a whole but less tight or refined. Therefore, I deduce the abovementioned power cords apllied as stipulated will be beneficial to you.

 

Thanks again!

So either the klotz gy107 or the belden 89259 would be good for IC for my overall setup.

 

So now i'm doing a final setup and the cost of it.

 

Power cords

1) Belden 19364 for CDP power cord: $10/m - need 1.5m

2) Belden 83803 for amp power cord: $20/m - need 1.5m

3) UK plug 'hospital grade': $10-13 - need 2 of it

4) Shutter IEC: $5 or less - need 2 of it *thanks again Mackie*

 

Interconnects

1) Klotz GY107: $2.50/m - need 1.8m

2) Neutrik RCA plug: $20 per pair - need 2 pair to make it 4 heads

 

So everything can be bought at either LHS or 2nd level of SLT, and later ask LHS personnel to assemble it for me.

So this should be right I guess?

Edited by Shiro MS08th

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Hi Guys,

 

Just went to LHS trying to get the RCA-mini phono plug with Canare L4E5S but they said they don't know how to do it... They needs to know the connection then only can do it...Anyone can help ??

 

Thanks Thanks!!

 

MC

 

 

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Hi Guys,

 

Just went to LHS trying to get the RCA-mini phono plug with Canare L4E5S but they said they don't know how to do it... They needs to know the connection then only can do it...Anyone can help ??

 

Thanks Thanks!!

 

MC

 

MC, were you trying to do an interconnect? I will be surprise if there's anything LHS don't know how to do. Talk to Patrick, he's a cable wiz.

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Hi Guys,

 

Just went to LHS trying to get the RCA-mini phono plug with Canare L4E5S but they said they don't know how to do it... They needs to know the connection then only can do it...Anyone can help ??

 

Thanks Thanks!!

 

MC

 

There are 4 conductors since it's a star quad cable. Let's name it conductor A, B, C, D.

 

Stereo phono plug LEFT channel > conductor A > +ve of RCA plug for LEFT channel

Stereo phono plug RIGHT channel > conductor B > +ve of RCA plug for RIGHT channel

Stereo phono plug GROUND > conductor C and D > each of these is soldered to -ve of each RCA plug

 

IPB Image

 

The top phono plug is stereo whilst the bottom being monoaural.

1. Sleeve: GROUND

2. Ring: RIGHT channel for stereo signal

3. Tip: LEFT channel for stereo signal

Edited by Mackie

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