M-audio opamps replacement

[ablaze 0]

I think it was one of those spur of the moment things for me too. I wouldn't normally do something like to this.

anyway, mine had no warranty since its from ebay, so I though..what the heck

[jasonhanjk 0]

Ehh. I thought I post it in the previous post.

 

Here goes:

 

Panasonic FC 1000uF of 1200uF with 35V rating.

[ablaze 0]

yeah you posted that Jason.

I'm asking if there's BETTER caps to use other than Panasonics

[jtfoo 0]

yeah you posted that Jason.

I'm asking if there's BETTER caps to use other than Panasonics 

Just off hand name a few audiophile fav. elco caps, no guarantee they would sound the way you'd like,

 

Elna Cerafine,

Elna Silmic,

Elna Stargate,

Black Gates, many claim need a long time to break in.

Nichicon muse,

Nichicon Gold Tune, usually come in huge values so don't think it suitable

Sanyo Oscon,

Rubycon low impendance, forgot model.

Of course the already mentioned Panasonic FC.

Edited July 18, 2003 by jtfoo

[ablaze 0]

thanks jtfoo,

which in your opinion, would be a good bang-for-buck cap?

[jasonhanjk 0]

I saw Elna stargate selling for less than a dollar at RS components.

[jtfoo 0]

thanks jtfoo,

which in your opinion, would be a good bang-for-buck cap?

bang for buck , imho, would be Panasonic FC. I used them in my projects coz I needed more than 50 of them. I'll be broke if I use only the more expensive ones.

 

But if you're changing just a few caps, maybe can afford to go for Cerafine or blackgate.. Or maybe you can try a few combi, like if it's along the signal path use more expensive caps like cerafine or blackgate and on power line then save abit and use panasonic FC.

 

The usual disclaimer , YMMV.

[ablaze 0]

thatnks again jtfoo. when replacing caps, what are the values I have to adhere to ah? I mean if the original cap is like XX volts, and XXX microfarads, do I have to stick to the same values?

 

also, one question guys: do opamps have burn in time?

[adhoc 0]

IIRC, yes i have read before that they need burn in.

[ablaze 0]

how long would you figure? cos after the initial adjustment, I'm finding the opamp-change + the caps bypass a lil too bright now. fatigueing probably would put the caps back in the signal path..

[adhoc 0]

now that you mention it, i cant recall ever seeing anyone recommend an exact period of time for burning-in opamps. i suppose the amount of time needed to burn in cables (~1 day) should be enough.

 

hrmm. it could also be psychological you realise? as in after the initial euphoria of modding your revo you're now coming to grips with reality?

 

and for someone who likes bright sound (that means you Kim Jong-Ablaze), to say that your mod resulted in sound that is too bright is a little scary in perspective.

[Wortel 0]

dosn't sound good. I hope the mod isn't a failure.

Im interested if I could do this stuff to my soundcard.

[jtfoo 0]

thatnks again jtfoo. when replacing caps, what are the values I have to adhere to ah? I mean if the original cap is like XX volts, and XXX microfarads, do I have to stick to the same values?

 

also, one question guys: do opamps have burn in time?

Without understanding the circuit, it's difficult to say if changing the values of the cap would improve. To be safe, and ensure the circuit works as intended, stick to original values. Having higher voltage rating is ok if the size still fits the PCB.

[ablaze 0]

its not a failure Wortel. I know I could just put the signal caps back in to 'tame' the highs.

 

adhoc, no, I wasn't just euphoric after the opamp change lah brightness never usually strikes me as immediately harsh or sharp, it still doesn't right now actually. It just sounds extraordinarily clear! its just fatigueing after prolonged listening that I'm associating it to be too 'sharp'. maybe when my amp comes, some warm i/cs might tweak it just right. but we'll see

[julery 0]

OT abit

 

Ablaze Sir, I notice you use soundcard ( M-Audio ) as source just like me but Philips AE . Did you boost ( amplify ) with Headphone Amp for your cans?

 

It sounded weird ( cheapskate sound ) comapre to my pc speakers.