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power supply works. just not the amp.

 

how to test diode polarity?

Use a multimeter. Set to OHMS mode and connect the probes to the diode. It should conduct one way but not the other.

 

Polarity wise, the end with the white band (in the case of a 1N4001) is the cathode (negative).

 

Regards

CK

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diode's like this right?

eg.

current flow

------->

so diode

---+ve:diode:-ve-->

 

correct?

 

I've attached more pics

post-2-1062938140.jpg

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diode's like this right?

eg.

current flow

------->

so diode

---+ve:diode:-ve-->

 

correct?

 

That's right.

 

Regards

CK

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Most DMM should have a diode check mode that measured the forwarding voltage of your diode. The symbol on the DMM should be that of a diode symbol. Putting the DMM's black lead on the white band of the diode and the red lead on the other end, will will the forwarding voltage of the diode.. No display means your diode not working or your have mixed up the ends.

 

You can check your LED with this method too..

Edited by jtfoo

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Funny... My previous post didn't make it through. Must be some forum glitch.

 

I've found your problem.

 

You failed to populate pads Q3L & Q3R which are essential for the left & right channel opamps to receive power. !!!

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that shouldn't be it, cos I've got V+ and V- of the LR channels tied to the ground channels' V+ V-, according to morsel's instructions. (actually I wanted separate rails, then I realised I didn't have enough of the 5486s dry.gif)

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whats "forwarding voltage"? is that how much the diode allows?

mine reads 0.52v

does that sound right?

Yup, 0.5V should be the forwarding voltage of a typical 1N400X...

 

Use the same method you can check the polarity of your LED.

 

I also notice you haven't jumpered across the S2. Solder wire across if you don't intend to add C7 & R7 for the bass boost.

Edited by jtfoo

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that shouldn't be it, cos I've got V+ and V- of the LR channels tied to the ground channels' V+ V-, according to morsel's instructions. (actually I wanted separate rails, then I realised I didn't have enough of the 5486s  dry.gif)

The 2N5486's sink out about 10mA of current or so.the 4 jfets there sink out 20mA to 40mA at best per rail. Your 3 opamps, rail-splitters & capacitors will need more current than that to operate properly. =)

Edited by Firefox

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One more important factor. You haven't added TLE2426's for each of the left & right channels. It's a must!

 

You must also place a 10pF cap across C6G & jumper across R3G!

Edited by Firefox

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Since you busted 2 TLE's, connect the ground of the TLE to left and right channel...

post-2-1062943056.jpg

Edited by jasonhanjk

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wah. so many replies suddenly biggrin.gif

 

jt: S2 IS jumpered. too small to see? hehe

 

ben & jason:

ben, I've been reading tangent's step-by-step guide over and over again. including checking with his pictures. C6G and R3G are not necessary.

I didn't add the TLEs on the L and R cos I was checking with morsel and ppl and they said if I tie the ground's V+ V- to the L and R V+ and V-, I won't need the other 2 TLEs.

 

ANYWAY, turns out..the DC jack was a lil screwy. I got light on the LED now! laugh.gif

 

new problems,

DC offset on L and R outputs are good <1mV.

but on ground channel, it keeps rising and rising..hmm..

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