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jasonhanjk

Guide to fix up a Cmoy 2

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Dear all,

 

any way to incress the "gain"?? I feel that not "loud" enough..

 

TIA...

 

dBu

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Should be able to but have not try it out. You got both Cmoy2 board and TLE2426?

I give you tips how to mock up. wink.gif

Maybe in a few weeks time, I am currently working on making a custom cable for my 0404...

 

And

 

Recabling an incoming SR60 driver....

 

 

Soon.... laugh.gif

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Ok...just built the thing...and now very irritated. I've got oscillations in my circuit, as in the 'whee' sound as mentioned earlier. Hmm...I wouldn't say my solder joints are bad, some of them might be slightly dirty and hence bulge a bit. The oscillations become inaudible, or go away, when I touch any of the output socket's pins. Also, I don't seem to get any volume increase. Using a 64ohm hd 280pro, and when I plug it in, I don't have a substantial increase in volume. Strangely, however, when I touch the joints for the resistors 2 - 8, I get the increase, but not by much. Regarding that....I sorta soldered both pads on either sides of the board for the resistors. For example, I soldered one of the legs of R5 on both sides? Is this ok?

 

Using a 9V batt. Think the whole thing's screwed up?

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Did you try taking out the LM6171? The ground opamp is rather susceptible to oscillation. You will need to jumper as per the instructions.

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Took out the ground opamp and jumpered the socket. Not much of a difference. Strange enough though, when I DID it out, and then put it back again, the oscillations were gone. However, it is perhaps that it's now inaudible, rather than an irritance I can hear. Also, with a gain of just 2, am I suppose to get a large increase of volume? To me, except for sound quality, the volume seems to be the same.

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To increse the gain, increase the value of R2 and R6. You can try 30k.

 

Kube, did you try to use a flux cleaner to clean the board?

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One word of advice...NEVER USE ANY FORM OF TIN WIRES (Are they tin?). The ones that tend be not so malleable and break. Especially if you're troubleshooting. I had to resolder all my jumper wires with multistrand copper. Of course, in the process, I burnt one e-cap. I singed the cap, and though now all my connections are solid, my sound is still crap.

 

I'm going to try replacing the lm6171 with the lm6181, and the opamp with a opa2228. Sigh....should I start over?...

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hi guys, went to Koba today to get some female jacks. the ones i bought were 'stero jacks' and they have 5 pins in them. however, I discover that only have OG, OL, OR holes. so can I still use those jacks or I have to buy those 3 pins ones? but the auntie say 3 pins jacks are mono jacks??? dry.gif

 

Jason, your schematic shows Vcc/2. so is the LM6171 outputs Vcc/2 and this Vcc/2 acts as the VG for the left and right opt -amp? cos quite confused when I saw both Vcc/2 are pointing outwards.

Edited by kross

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Hi All,

Have just built my cMoy2 amp. Was all going great, first time worker, until i used 12v instead of 9v.

 

Parts I used

 

2x 1000uf 16v Pana's

5x 63v 1uf Wima Poly's

2x OPA2134

1x LM6171

8x 10kR 1% 0.4w

2x 10R 1% 0.4w

1x 50k log pot

 

Now, my left channel doesnt work. Only sound you get out of it is when turning the volume up to full, and then very faint left, whilst very distorted right.

 

I'm in the UK, so sourcing parts is fairly hard, Maplin is a joke, Farnell is decent but £20 min order.

 

Is there any way to check the amp with a multimeter to find out which component is kaput??

 

I soldered my opamps instead of socketing, and ive lost my solder sucker, compressed air seems to work quite well tho.

 

Any help will be much appreciated.

 

Back of Amp

Top of Amp

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

Matt

Edited by matt.pimm

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Caps or opamps. Not sure how to test them though.

 

Kross: Goto LHS in SLT. There is an open back 3 pin female jack. Costs about 3dollars each.

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