Mackie

Some DIY tips for your CD94. http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/113647.html One thing is certain if you ever feel the itch to add a DAC, this cdp makes a great sounding transport. How much did you pay for the machine?

Not sure why but I can't get in. Just a blank screen staring back at me. (Jul 26, 02.06pm).

Let me just start by saying nothing in this world is absolute. An investment, analysis, scientific theory and all things major and minor are at best a guess, but nevertheless, the best one acceptable by the majority but more significantly, yourself. This is why you must first understand what you like and want before embarking on this journey, which can be rather confusing and stressful. Do not confuse music quality with sound quality. Hence, a system that makes good sound does not mean good music and in turn, the best recorded cd may not play the best music. Once you've drawn the line between sound and music, the rest is easier. Let's consider sound since it's the key criteria when selecting each and every component to form a system. Let's look at the source ie cd player. If you do not own any system at all, you must look for a common ground or reference point on the onset. For instance, a certain cdp A piques your interest but you have no idea how it sounds. Hear this cdp A partnered with amp A and cans A. Note the + and -, then listen to the next system with the same cdp A and can A but amp B. Note the difference and common findings between this and the former systems and derive a preliminary conclusion of the sonic characteristics of cdp A+can A. Next, partner cdp A with amp B and can B. Note the difference and compare with the previous findings. If you continue along these lines, very soon you will learn how the cdp A score on its own. Apply the same principles for other components too. In fact, partner the targeted component with as many systems as possible and your findings will become more accurate. But if you already have a can which can be driven direct from the cdp's headphone out, all the better, as you only need to carry the cans and hear it on different cdps. Now do not throw away your findings from your previous auditions as you have a whole lot of data inhibited by each component, cdp, amps, cans. Theoretically, fit the 3 components that either have similar sonic characteristics or those that compliment one another. Read ying and yang as what you aim for is a balanced performance and not leaning towards any extreme. Frankly speaking, I find the whole process very mathematical but so is physics in general. Last but not least, select the song/music track which you are very familar with (not necessarily audiophile recording) for each and every audition. Listen in the A-B-A manner ie, listen to system A then B then back to A to confirm your findings. Frankly speaking, the whole process is rather mathematical but so is physics in general.

U made a wise choice, congratulations! IMHO, the new DT990 is simply the best and most musical can in Beyer's collection. The most analytical and detailed being DT150. DT880 is semi-open and this design serves to balance the pros of a closed and open back design. It's not surprising that you find its soundstaging narrower than the AKGs which are all open designs.

Marantz is well known to be a tad slower in terms of attack and may not bode well for rock music. But if you don't feel that anything is amiss, your choice of CD63SE is feasible. Since you are at it, why not try a CD6000OSE which superseded the 63 series?

Btw, the Beyer model is DT770 pro and not DT700. If you are so unsure, invest small money like a portable amp (PA2V2) not only for your pc but portable sources too. Impedance of a can will decide if it needs to be driven by an amp. Eg, DT770 pro has an impedance of 250ohms and will definitely benefit from amplication. U can do without it if the selected can has low impedance below 100ohms. An amp does not just amplify loudness but increase signal to noise ratio by amplifiying the music signal and gives better clarity and control all round. Let's see which can u end up with before exploring further into amps.

I reckon diyers will buy the instrument from likes of homefix and dit (do it themselves)....

I like the quicksilver case, does it cost much?

Check your manual, Enzer and its equivalent should house a 24bit DAC, like all dvdps in the market now. I'm dead sure about that. Ah...got this from their website. http://www.myenzer.com/en/products/maincat...nz?maincat_id=1 http://www.myenzer.com/en/products/prod_di...d=1&subcat_id=2

I don't know what's the fetish with wood. Will it sound different to you or you really love wood within earshot? Don't lose your way in this hobby, get a good system running and just enjoy the music. Let time be the judge if mods are needed for your forthcoming cans.

At least we discovered this gem way before our friends in the western world.....2 years since we wrote our reviews/opinions here?

I believe in garbage in, garbage out. As such, I believe in building a system downstream ie. source to can/speaker and not the reverse. But contrary to what most people believe the cdp as the source, I firmly believe the person is the truer source. Hence, you must know what you want from your system and be oblivious to the comments of others, just as long as you are happy with the music it produces. It's harder these days due to forums and thus, peer pressure. If you already have one or two parts of a system such as amp and cans, you gotta figure out all the positive and negative traits and try to find a cdp that will synergize with the rest of the system. I see it as an equation with different variables to play with until you get the desired result. That being said, don't look too closely on technical specs as they mean moot in terms of music presentation. A cdp with 24-bit DAC will produce more details than a conventional 16-bit player but not necessarily better in overall performance. Take for instance Marantz, many if not most audiophiles have owned a Marantz (low end, high end) and it's still very popular. However, it has never produced a 24-bit cdp which reiterates newer technology does not quantify to better music.

Seems like this amp is attracting lots of attentions yet again, in the wake of Sam Tellig's review in Stereophile.

Another closed design option that costs less than $100 is Philips HP890. Do a search on this forum as this model was previouly discussed.

Decibels (dB) = 10Log( P2/P1) where P2/P1 represents the power ratio; P1=reference power and P2<P1.

If you are searching for a can which excels in all aspects, it's gonna be elusive. Notice that most if not all members have multiple cans for different music genre. In addition, closed designs excel in isolation and bass reinforcement but open designs usually sound better in all other areas and relatively more refined. For eg, try a DT770pro and DT990 (classic version before 2005-06 version) and the difference is telling. Amongst Beyers, DT150 (below S$400) is my pick for something of an all rounder but looks department/comfort can be an issue. If your budget can be stretched to $500 and more, DT990 (2005/06 new version) is my favourite. U can read all about it from our in-hour review threads.

Well, someone is pulling a fast one on you. Impedance matching is a key consideration between pre-amp and power amp as it affects gain. It's a prevalent standard that all line input has high impedance (47Kohms for solid state) and output has low impedance. This applies to sacd, cd, tuner, aux, line in/out, tape in/tape out etc.

I mean your LD player - Laser Disc player, not DVD player. If you intend to get a DAC or DAC headamp, try using the LD player as transport. It might sound good.

Amp = amplifier = Longman dictionary says: instrument for making sound louder DVD carries various audio encoding, Dolby Digital 5.1, Digitial Digital 2.0 and DTS. Select DD2.0 and it should sound louder thru your cans. Drop by Jaben (Adelphi...Coleman Street, Singapore) and Stereo Electronics (Causeway Point, Woodlands mrt.....also Singapore). Bring along you SR80 and listen you your mp3 or cds with and without amp. If you can't tell the difference, save the money and buy more cds instead.

Short signal path sounds best and so is the simple approach in connecting your setup. If you have a speakers system and also wish to listen to all your sources via a headamp+cans, connect the headamp to <tape out> of the pre-amp/integrated amp/receiver.

Based on past experience, I would pick the NAD for sound quality. But what matters most is whether you could tell the difference. If you can't and the HK costs cheaper than NAD and the looks appeal to you, why spend more.

I used to own a Zeus speaker cable and power cord...very briefly.....they look like snakes to me.....even a python.

http://www.sgheadphones.net/index.php?showtopic=5090 Stereo Electonics

Ah.. a case of judging a book by its cover. So in your opinion, you would give the thin Kimber Kable Silver Streak interconnect a miss but favour a thick AFA (infamous brand....at least to a lot of people I know) cable then?

By the way, what is the LD player model? For instance, a Pioneer LD-909/919 has a pretty good transport.