N@Z 0 Report post Posted March 3, 2005 Your 'greens' look good though. PI huh? Dun give me ideas! Coincidently, saw Magnum PI on TV today. Remember him & the gorgeous 308 Ferrari GTS? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bpribadi 0 Report post Posted March 3, 2005 Wow N@Z, a very nice zoom lens in my "green" shot, the HDB was under sunlight while the trees were in the shade, i should hav used a higher F-stop and blur the background smile.gif A better way to get the shade and the bright HDB in balance is to shoot them in bracketing mode, -1 0 +1 (must use tripod) and then sandwich them in PS So you get all the detail of the bright and the shade. This technique is to extend the native dynamic range of the digicam CCD. But I agree with Jason, your green is good and natural, but not the 'poping out' green as the one in the postcard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Q00 0 Report post Posted March 3, 2005 N@Z, that is a VERY sharp shot at that focal range! Power of VR indeed. Tropical, U could blur the background if u wanted? Ive yet to try bracketing. Will probably try after my exams in 2 wks time. Will try a whole bunch of stuff as well... Im just counting the days... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tropicalrips 0 Report post Posted March 3, 2005 A better way to get the shade and the bright HDB in balance is to shoot them in bracketing mode, -1 0 +1 (must use tripod) and then sandwich them in PS So you get all the detail of the bright and the shade. This technique is to extend the native dynamic range of the digicam CCD. But I agree with Jason, your green is good and natural, but not the 'poping out' green as the one in the postcard thanks for the tips Bram how often do u guys bring out your tripods? so far i only used my tripod for macro shot with the C8080 and once for night shots in Clarke Quay i shoot mostly on the move, on my way to work and on the way back going to try the monopod tomorrow night at Albert Court Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tropicalrips 0 Report post Posted March 3, 2005 Tropical, U could blur the background if u wanted? Ive yet to try bracketing. Will probably try after my exams in 2 wks time. Will try a whole bunch of stuff as well... Im just counting the days... actually the higher F-stop and a little zoom at around 35-50mm should giv me a blur background, but there must be enough light bracketing is quite fun too for AE bkt, u'll need to set to continous shot, the camera takes 3 shots with different exposure. with AWB bkt, the camera only needs 1 shot, but u'll end up with 3 shots with different white balance what filters do u guys use on the D70? i hav a circular PL for the kit lens, but the result don't seem as good as my Olympus with cir.PL outdoor shots. i still stick to a UV filter on the kit lens Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Q00 0 Report post Posted March 4, 2005 What circ,pl are u using? you should be getting as good or a better result unless the circ.pl is the problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenshinz 0 Report post Posted March 4, 2005 Circ.PL works best when u're at right angle to the light source. If you'll facing the light source straight on or its behind you, the effect will be greatly reduced. At the same time, there will be some light loss when using a circ.pl too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N@Z 0 Report post Posted March 4, 2005 I don't normally use bracketing so what I tend to do since I shoot mostly in RAW nowadays is that for shots with high & low contrast subjects I meter the shot to be underexposed. Then when converting the raw images I do a +1/3 or +2/3 (depending on the amount required). Effectively I have 2 images, one original underexposed for details in the sky & one exposure adjusted to bring up the foreground. I then layer the 2 images together & blend the bits together. Viola. I think one of the previous images I posted (National Day) was done that way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bpribadi 0 Report post Posted March 4, 2005 That's the right way to get wide dynamic range from a single image If your camera don't have RAW, then bracketing will be the way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N@Z 0 Report post Posted March 4, 2005 Thought I just point it out that technique, since we are specifically in the D70 thread anyway so using RAW format should not be an issue, unless the original image was shot in jpeg. In theory still can be done with Levels in photoshop. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tropicalrips 0 Report post Posted March 4, 2005 (edited) QOO, the cir.PL is Vitacon, i don't think the problem is with the filter, maybe just the light conditions of that day, and also me being not familar with camera settings yet. the shots just don't look "alive" this was one of the better shots shot in Jpeg, large file - fine quality took this tonight with the slik monopod shot in RAW shutter speed 1/4 ISO 400 f-stop 4.5 i'll try the same shot tomorrow morning for comparison i just check today on price of 2GB CF, almost $300 & no ex-stock, only back-to-back order, a 4GB micro drive is about $600++ i hav in my shop a USB drive thats 4GB retail @ $299, i hav open up 1 piece and guess what...its a micro drive!! tried in the D70 but got "CHAR" error on the LCD. its a voltage problem, even after formatting the drive it still won't work, the 4GB microdrive is from Magicstor, it seems there's 2 versions of this drive...a 4.4GB CF-II that has 3.3/5v and the other is 4GB ATA which is 3.3v only the one from the USB drive is the ATA version which could explain the cheaper price, anyone has any ideas on how to get this 3.3v microdrive to work in a camera? below is the Magicstor website magicstor Edited March 4, 2005 by tropicalrips Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Q00 0 Report post Posted March 4, 2005 Im not really sure about microdrive but i do know that they are quite the battery suckers. Here is a thread i dug up on polarisers on the clubsnap forum. Hope it helps! Polariser help ps. seems u can do funky things if u reverse the circ.pl and get weird colours. hehe! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tropicalrips 0 Report post Posted March 5, 2005 (edited) the "elephant shot" in the morning for comparison there's a little lens flare on the top left area (forgot to bring lens hood ) i think for this shot the cir.PL filter would hav come in handy, the sky is a little burnout auto contrast in Nikon editor RAW - ISO200 - WB sunlight +1 shot this one for fun crop out the man walking by my shot using Nikon editor i also did some macro test with the kit lens, but the result was not very good, need a macro lens for DSLR to hav good macro shots Edited March 5, 2005 by tropicalrips Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N@Z 0 Report post Posted March 5, 2005 Have you tried using your 70-300mm G lens? I got another question concerning using the SB Speedlight at low light conditions. When you cannot use bounce off a ceiling or the subject is fairly far like in a group photo, how do I get a softer diffused light as opposed to firing the flash directly on to the subject & getting a harshly lit subject? I tried using the diffuser dome but the flash is too weak for anything other than close range. This is because of the little switch below the flash which get's actuated when the dome is fixed on causing the flash to go into 14mm mode & cannot be overidden from the menu. I'm not too keen on cutting a notch on the diffuser dome to bypass this. Other option is probably to get a spare omnibounce & cut the notch there. I've also tried angling the flash at 45 degrees & extending the bounce card in the hope that the reflection will be cast on the subject however it is not completely even. Any suggestions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tropicalrips 0 Report post Posted March 5, 2005 i think the best option would be to use the flash as a remote, this will close the distance. i hav a diffuser thats made of cloth/fabric type material, it has a reflector inside that stops the flash from escaping to the back when doing bounce, u can slip on the diffuser the other way round and hav less light firing to the front i think the fabric material lets though more light then the plastic one, but still does its job of diffusing the flash when firing directly at the subject Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
